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Author Archives: Michael Ruhlman
Why Awards Matter to Me
Well, they do and they don't. Ruhlman's Twenty surprised me by winning both an IACP award and a James Beard award this spring.
The book's editor, before the Beard ceremony, wrote, "The book is just unusual enough to break through all the other more standard cookbooks."
True, it is unique, a book organized by techniques rather than by types of dishes. I thought this was a liability in the awards department. Ratio was a completely original book, a book like no other, and was nominated for nothing. The French Laundry Cookbook I thought was truly unique, with its broad mix of story, Thomas Keller's trajectory, but also the stories of his purveyors, its discussion of critical elements of his cooking (beurre monté, special ...
Mint Juleps, the Good and the Bad
My first mint julep was made for me by a guy who remains one of my dearest friends and confidants. We were wayward, then, but he has gone on to be a talented and superlative writer, generally. Having at the time (1987) a Kentucky girlfriend and having recently spent four years at Tulane, he knew his juleps.
The night ended badly. Blown speakers at my girlfriends apartment and roof tar all over her nice wood floors—she was pissed, and I staggered out into the early spring sunshine. On the subway home the next morning from 110th and Amsterdam to 39th and 1st—wouldn’t you know it—I heard, “Michael?!” An old high school girlfriend had spotted me, my first kiss actually, and still dear friend. She picked lint out ...
Posted in Cocktails, Recipes Tagged bourbon, classic, cocktail, herbs, Kentucky Derby, mint julep, muddle, recipe 25 Comments
Classic Hollandaise

Making a traditional Hollandaise, yolks in a vinegar reduction (all photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman).
On Saturday night, sitting in the Ohio State Theater waiting for Jim Gaffigan to go on, I got a tweet from Elise alerting me that a website had stolen my text and Donna's photos from the following post. Elise, creator of the site Simply Recipes and vigilant crusader for blogger rights and general Internet justice, also sent me a link to the Google page to report copyright infringement. I wrote to Google, and the folks there had the theft taken down within days. So here's a prime example of the very hard work Elise does, not just her consistently excellent publishing at Simply Recipes, but also her work on behalf of other bloggers. And also ...
Posted in aromatics, Breakfast, Food Writing, From Scratch, Kitchen Tips, Ratios, Recipes, sauce, Technique Tagged Breakfast, butter, classic, Hollandaise sauce, sauce, yolks 6 Comments
Friday Cocktail Hour: The Negroni
I actually hadn’t heard of a Negroni until Bourdain ordered one after an event we did at the 92nd Street Y. It wasn’t like him to be order a girly drink, I thought, when the server arrived with a pinkish, on-the-rocks concoction, so I took note.
It would become one of my favorite cocktails, and I like it both on the rocks and up. It’s a simple but complex elixir originally created in Italy, comprising equal parts Campari, sweet vermouth, and gin. I prefer Hendrick’s gin for this but am not sure why—probably because of the cool bottle.
Any decent gin will do. The VTR likes to flame orange zest oil over the drink. I prefer an actual squeeze of orange, its citrusy ...
Cinco De Mayo—Should It Be “Celebrated”
Having drinks last month with Shaw Lash, a Chicago chef, after a steller meal at Frontera Grill (Shaw works for executive chef Rick Bayless, renowned Mexican cuisine authority), and the subject of Cinco de Mayo came up. Shaw, who had a few month earlier showed me how they make their own chocolate, above, shook her head and said, "Don't get me started." But she started anyway. I said, "Want to write a guest post for my site?"
By Shaw Lash
I grew ...
Posted in chefs, Ethnic Cuisine, Food Culture, Food Writing, Rant Tagged celebration, Cinco De Mayo, Emperor Maximilian I, history, holiday, mexico, Napoleon, Rick Bayless, Shaw Lash 56 Comments

















