Classic Hollandaise

 

Making a traditional Hollandaise, yolks in a vinegar reduction (all photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman).

On Saturday night, sitting in the Ohio State Theater waiting for Jim Gaffigan to go on, I got a tweet from Elise alerting me that a website had stolen my text and Donna's photos from the following post. Elise, creator of the site Simply Recipes and vigilant crusader for blogger rights and general Internet justice, also sent me a link to the Google page to report copyright infringement. I wrote to Google, and the folks there had the theft taken down within days. So here's a prime example of the very hard work Elise does, not just her consistently excellent publishing at Simply Recipes, but also her work on behalf of other bloggers. And also ...

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Posted in aromatics, Breakfast, Food Writing, From Scratch, Kitchen Tips, Ratios, Recipes, sauce, Technique | Tagged , , , , , | 5 Comments

Friday Cocktail Hour: The Negroni

Michael's favorite cocktail, the Negroni. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

I actually hadn’t heard of a Negroni until Bourdain ordered one after an event we did at the 92nd Street Y. It wasn’t like him to be order a girly drink, I thought, when the server arrived with a pinkish, on-the-rocks concoction, so I took note.

It would become one of my favorite cocktails, and I like it both on the rocks and up. It’s a simple but complex elixir originally created in Italy, comprising equal parts Campari, sweet vermouth, and gin. I prefer Hendrick’s gin for this but am not sure why—probably because of the cool bottle.

Any decent gin will do. The VTR likes to flame orange zest oil over the drink. I prefer an actual squeeze of orange, its citrusy ...

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Posted in Cocktails, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , | 33 Comments

Staple Meal: Stir-Fry

Staple meal from Twenty, beef and pepper stir-fry. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

When your computer crashes, you find out just how precarious your life is without technology. None of yesterday's work was backed up, so that's what's going on here! Today will be spent trying to restore what I can. Life will be normal again, I suppose, soon but not now. Thank goodness for good partners (viz Donna), wonderful assistants (thank you, Emilia!), and easy staple meals that you can count on, meals that are a breeze to prepare and a comfort to eat at the end of a frustrating day.
 
The following is a weekly staple dinner in the Ruhlman household, a simple beef stir-fry, published in Ruhlman's Twenty, which happily just won both a James Beard award and an IACP ...

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Posted in aromatics, Beef, Ethnic Cuisine, Recipes, Seasonings and Spices, staple meal | Tagged , , , , , | 10 Comments

Cinco De Mayo—Should It Be “Celebrated”

Chef Shaw Lash, below XOCO restaurant in Chicago

Having drinks last month with Shaw Lash, a Chicago chef, after a steller meal at Frontera Grill (Shaw works for executive chef Rick Bayless, renowned Mexican cuisine authority), and the subject of Cinco de Mayo came up. Shaw, who had a few month earlier showed me how they make their own chocolate, above, shook her head and said, "Don't get me started." But she started anyway. I said, "Want to write a guest post for my site?"

Just after Shaw sent me her post below this advert dropped into my mailbox. It seemed appropriate to lead with here. I'm actually a fan of Fox and Hound, where we play pool weekly.

By Shaw Lash I ...

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Posted in chefs, Ethnic Cuisine, Food Culture, Food Writing, Rant | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 48 Comments

Friday Cocktail Hour: The Whiskey Sour

The Whiskey Sour/Photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I had my first cocktail with an egg white in it at The Best Bar in the World, and it was a revelation. A Ramos gin fizz. The egg white gave it the kind of body I'd never felt. (And nutrition! If LA starlets can call an egg white omelet a meal, I can call my cocktail a meal!) I've since become a huge fan of what an egg white can bring to a drink. I even put the VTR Whiskey Sour in Ruhlman's Twenty! Herewith the Friday Cocktail Hour a classic whiskey sour. It's typically made with bourbon, and that's fine, as is scotch. But after last week's Manhattan, which used Old Overholt Rye, I had a rye on the rocks to evaluate it ...

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Posted in Books, Cocktails, Food Adventure, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , | 51 Comments
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