My father, Rip, loved to cook (and to feed people). And he loved chili. But not what you got in Cleveland.
In 1970s Cleveland, chili meant ground beef and kidney beans in some kind of tomato sauce, often referred to as chili con carne. Which underscores the point that in Cleveland in the 1970s we didn't really know what the fuck we were doing (but who really did in the 1970s?). Remember, too, that in the south of our state, one restaurant was putting pie seasonings in chili and dumping the shit on spaghetti!)
Also a problem: in the late 1970s, there were not endless recipes online or even definitive sources for variations on dishes, so it was up to him.
My dad wanted the real deal. He didn't like beans (nor do I, in chili) and was thrilled to discover that the chili they made in Texas typically didn't have any beans at all and it didn't have tomato. So he created his version, which was, essentially, beef stew made with beef broth and chili powder. And it was inspiring in its simplicity.
It never would have occurred to him to make beef stock--unthinkable back then, what even was that? Nor were there dried chiles to make real chile powder. But nor were there the authenticity police telling him to go home because his chili wasn't really authentic. (For a discussion of what "authenticity" really means, listen to Krishnendu Ray on my podcast "From Scratch," first episode here in season one.)
Working off his original recipe, which he'd typed on a 3x5 card, I ad libbed a fabulous (IMO) chili, much in request in my parts. Which I will call "Rip's Texas Chili Authentic by way of Cleveland."
The key here, as with any heavily spiced stews, is not to be afraid of the spices. I use Ranch Gordo's killer chile powder. But I urge you to make your own chile powder from dried chiles you can find at the store. I always include anchos, dried chipotles, guajillo, arbols and whatever else might be available. I also include plenty of cumin and coriander (best toasted and ground, but it depends on your circs).
I use half beef stock (or better veal stock if you make it) and a can of whole peeled tomatoes. Yes! Tomatoes! (And, honestly, we're in a pandemic, so use water if that's all you have; water is your ally; just throw in some carrots and celery and more onion—it will still be delicious.)
Making it couldn't be more straightforward. I roast the diced beef to set the protein (feel free to flour and brown it if you have the time and you love the smell of floured meat hitting hot fat). I cook a big diced onion in some oil with salt, then cook the spices in that oil, add the rest of the ingredients and simmer for an hour or two. I thickened it here with beurre manié (four/butter), but you can use a slurry or better, some masa harina instead of flour. Or don't thicken it at all.
I serve the chili with rice, cheese, sour cream, scallions, some red chiles fried black and crispy in oil and whatever you wish (fresh sliced chiles are great if they're available). This is a great dish for groups, especially groups quarantining and binging on movies and card games.
Miss you, Dad. Boy, what you have made of these times? Well, sense, that's what. As always. Yours ever.
"Rip's" "Authentic" Texas Chili
Ingredients
- 2.5 pounds diced beef chuck roast
- salt as needed
- 1 large onion, diced
- 1 tbsp vegetable oil
- 2 - 3 tbsp good chile powder
- 1 tbsp ground cumin (preferably toasted and ground)
- 1 tbsp ground coriander (preferably toasted and ground)
- ½ tsp cayenne (or to taste)
- 1 can whole peeled tomatoes (28-ounce)
- 2 cups beef stock (or veal stock)
- 1 cup cilantro optional but good
Instructions
- Preheat your oven to 425˚F.
- Spread your diced beef on a sheet tray lined with parchment or foil. Give it a generous dose of salt. Roast it until it's browned.
- In the mentime, cook your onion in a large pot or dutch oven in the oil over medium high heat. Give it a good hit of salt. When it's tender (brown it if you want), ten minutes or so, add the chile powder, cumin, coriander and cayenne. Cook the spices in the fat.
- Pour in the beef and any juices in the sheet tray. Stir to combine. (If you're in the mood add a cup of red wine here to deglaze.) Add the juice from the tomatoes and stir to deglaze. Squeeze the tomatoes into pulp into the pot. Add the beef stock.
- Bring to a simmer, lower the heat, and simmer for an hour or two. Taste it. Add salt or more seasonings as needed.
- If you want it thicker, knead together 2 tablespoons butter with 2 tablespoons of flour (or cornstarch and water), and stir this in till it's the consistency you want. (Sorry these weren't in the ingredient list but you have something on hand don't you? And if you don't this will be even more authentic.)
- Serve garnished with the cilantro. Put out bowls of rice, sliced scallions, chiles, cheese, or what you will (we had some radishes we through in there--we're in quarantine, use what you have, and above all, have fun)!
Hi. Cleveland born and raised now living in Houston. Recipe hits home for me as Mom’s chili growing up in the 70’s exact same as you describe. One question- why not brown the meat in the Dutch oven in batches to build up a fond? Thanks.
That’s what I do (fond) then deglaze it with a bit of the broth. It adds to the soup
Great read, as usual. As a Texas Chili Police deputy, I appreciate your disclaimers and appropriate placement of salty language.
I will say one time, try this in your biggest blender, I like it and it smells great:
1-quartered onion,
1cup peeled garlic,
Fill rest with seeded chiles, then pour in boiling stock and let it reconstitute while you brown meat and then blend it all up. Pour that in as the chili mix.
Brown it whole in the pan, then dice
Old Overholt is delicious and simple for a great Manhattan, his genius shines through.
I think of you on one of those shows being pranked by Tony at a Cleveland fast food place, you asked him “ is there cinnamon in this?”, that was a funny one.
Sounds great! I don't know that we'd ever do this with company, but my Texas family usually eats chili with crumbled up cornbread in it instead of rice. It may not make for the best presentation, but it sure hits the spot.
cornbread would be a great thickener!
Gonna make this tonite just what the doctor ordered. Thank you.
When I make chilli. I use 3 different types of meat.
1). Ground Turkey
2). Hamburger
3) Deer meat.
If anyone has not used deer meat then you don't know what your missing I don't brown my deer meat. I throw it in uncooked.
I want to try other game instead of Beef I would love to try other game.
I love cornbread in my chili!
Pssst... TGIF,
& it’s traditionally either Cinco De Mayo or Kentucky Derby festivities this weekend. Mint Julep or Rita
I read Grocery last month and it's a wonderful work of journalism mixed with a humorous and heartwarming tribute to your father. I loved every page.
Side benefit: Understanding more about the industry helped me make better sense of the supply chain news stories over the last few months.
thanks mike!
I tried the recipe and it miserably failed!
I understand that you "don't mess with Texas." But when Texas fails to "meat" the combo of hamburger and kidney beans in chili, you're off the rails!
So sorry! Why did it fail exactly? A friend made it recently and said it was excellent. It's so basic a preparation I can only presume you are in the tomatoes-are-the-devil camp.
Tasty sauce. Over rice was a nice change from our usual chili as were cilantro, cheese, scallions and avocado. That the meat (prime Chuck cubes) wasn't fork tender after 2 hours was disappointing. I uncertain whether cooking longer would benefit the meat texture but diminish the spices. Any suggestions, e.g. sous vide the meat in advance?
sorry about the tough meat. I would just cook it longer next time. I don't think sous vide is answer. Or you could cover and slow roast before adding to chili.
I will try your suggestions. Thank you.
I do understand that the original recipe (at least one of the many) is really important for the local people and is used in restaurants in Texas. But some people just want to expand their experiences and make classic dishes with a twist. I'm one of those people. I use beans and tomato when making chili. And I also think that both these incredients are perfect for the chili. Perhaps I should call that food something other than chili? I just have not found the right name. But I know lots of people who are using these forbidden incredients.