Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman
First, the following five people (and their favorite braise) will receive a signed copy of my new book How to Braise. Congrats!
—Steve W.: Braised oxtail and pumpkin with chickpeas over couscous!
—Cindy M: Braised pork shanks…. yum!
—JAvera: Oven-Braised Corned Beef. Yum. Sliced thin and served on Kings Hawaiian Bread. (I know, I know. Just try it sometime!)
—Fran: I’ll pretty much take anything braised, but currently I’m loving chicken braised with carrots, leeks and sherry.
—Tom Abella: My favorite braise is Cheating Pulled Pork Shoulder, which is what I call it when I combine an hour of heavy smoking over a grill at night with putting the shoulder in a covered Dutch oven at 225 overnight. What emerges in the morning is a glorious fall-apart piece of meat complete with drippings for sauce or other applications. Best of all is the effort of it–effectively none, but still allowing you to get a good night’s sleep and have fresh homemade pulled pork for your lunch guests. Also, since it’s pork shoulder, it’s super easy on the wallet.
Tom is a cook after my own heart. I grill pork shoulder and then braise it as well, and I don't even call it cheating! We are often taught to sear the meat first. But you don't have to sear it; grilling accomplishes the same thing and more! It's an amazingly effective technique, and I'm glad he brought it up.
My favorite cut to braise is lamb shank. Each book in this series begins with an iconic recipe, and this was the one I chose for How to Braise. Just look at a raw shank and you see how much white and opaque connective tissue they have. You know from looking at this cut that you can't sauté it. Nor would you roast it. What you want to do is to transform all that inedible connective tissue into the gelatin, liquefy it, so that it will thicken and enrich the braising liquid that will be the finished sauce.
I define braise as a technique comprising two steps: searing (or setting the exterior with some form of dry heat), then cooking in liquid until tender. When you do this to a lamb shank, you're left with a very rich and delicious sauce and fall-off-the-bone-tender meat. Especially fine on cold winter nights.
It's easy if you plan ahead: flour and sear the meat in vegetable oil (this can be done up to three days ahead); cover with liquid (chicken, veal, lamb, or vegetables stock, wine, tomato sauce, or even water, though you'd want to include plenty of aromatic vegetables if using just water), bring it to a simmer, then put it in a 300˚F oven for 3 or 4 hours (covered, not covered if you want the liquid to reduce, or covered with a parchment lid—watch my how to video on this, love that one—which offers some reduction without keeping the liquid at a steady boil).
It's good to flavor that liquid with seasonings or spices, aromatic vegetables, curry powder, rosemary, whatever you wish. It's also a good idea to finish the dish with something that adds color and contrasts the richness of the sauce, such as gremolata (above I've garnished the shank with mint gremolata). Also, take time to appreciate the amazing aroma you are filling your home with.
As the next arctic blast descends, I will definitely be braising. It is the season of the braise.
If you didn't win but still want a copy, you can buy How to Braise on these sites:
© 2015 Michael Ruhlman. Photo © 2015 Donna Turner-Ruhlman. All rights reserved.
I've have a theory about braising - I'd like to know if you think it makes any sense.
If I put the pot in the oven, the heat comes at it from all sides, whereas if I keep it on the stovetop, all the heat has to come up through the braising liquid - that's got to be a good thing, right?
i think ambient heat better all around (and bottom less likely to scorch.
Congrats to all the winners...and it is off to Amazon to order a copy.
Sadly, didn't win 🙁
Does the book talk about using the low-liquid method that apparently is discussed in the book "Modernist Cuisine"? I have read accounts such as http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/805158 and I would be interested in learning more about it.
You know, come to think of it, I *may* have gotten the idea to first smoke and then finish the shoulder in a dutch oven from Ruhlman's 20.
Still a good way to wow your lunch guests with barbecue and yet get a good night's sleep.
yes! that's where I first wrote about it! Forgot!
Congratulations winners! Great looking book, I am very hungry now!
Hmmm... I see why Donna has been absent from your blog. She's been busy taking pictures for your books. Very nice!
My cocktail for this Friday is a straight shot of Sambuca, to make sure the bottle I bought for tonight's dinner is worthy - it's for a Mario Batali recipe, drizzle over espresso granita & top with fresh whipped cream. It passes muster.
And a wired Manhattan. Jim Beam cinnamon bourbon, Brad Thomas Parson's home made house bitters, Campari, twist of orange and dash of Punt E Mes vermouth. Wired, but goddam f#*king good!
I said Goddam!!
Cheers
Suppose to say weird, not wired. Some of the guest found it a bit too sweet.
Post dinner comment:
I made a nice valentine day dinner for four, using leftover braised venison shoulder that I had taken from the freezer from a pre Xmas meal.
I stuffed it in raviolis using egg washed wonton wrappers, boiled and seared. Topped with creme freche, sautéed mushrooms and a parsley leaf.
Very much like Ruhlmans kerplach, or Symons beef cheek pyrogys.
This is a great way to use leftover braised meat. One of many courses used as a side,accompanied steak frites and Spanish shrimp kabobs, everyone loved it and it was easy with the premade wonton wrappers.
Just received my copy of "How To Braise" today. Making some short ribs for valentines Day dinner. Using an Asian inspired recipe that include chicken stock, soy sauce, ginger, garlic and Chinese five spice. The book is beautiful and I wil be trying out a number of the recipes soon.