Holiday Cookie Time

 

My collection of holiday cookies. Photo by E. Juocys

Guest post from My Girl Friday, who loves loves loves cookies—M.R. by Emilia Juocys December is here and it is time to bake cookies. It is not as easy of a task as one might think it is. I spend about two days thinking of the combination of cookies that I will be baking and presenting for Christmas. I review classic cookies that I make year round, seasonal cookies, and ones that take a bit longer to make. My labor of love are these cookies. The two dozen that make it in the box to share with friends, loved ones, and co-workers. This is my way to share my skill and love of baking with those around me. This year will be a more meaningful Christmas baking season since my mentor has ...

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Posted in baking, Desserts, From Scratch, Guest Post, Holiday, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , , | 22 Comments

Gift Week: Season’s Best Book and Others I Like

 

My holiday cookbook selections. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

My pick for best food book of the year is Tamar Adler’s An Everlasting Meal, a collection of thoughtful, elegantly written essays on food and cooking. Tamar, who has worked mainly for food magazines and has also done actual time on the line at Prune and Chez Panisse, opens the book with the rather preposterous, even arrogant claim of aspiring to the level of the doyenne of the form, MFK Fisher. As it turns out, it’s not so preposterous after all. She’s the real deal. I read the galleys of this book on a beach in Okracoke, NC, this summer and enjoyed every moment of this smart, thoughtful cook’s work. For those who like to read good writing on food, on cooking, on sharing food, both ...

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Posted in Books, Holiday | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 19 Comments

Give the Gift of Sous Vide

Sous Vide cooking manual. Photo by Deborah Jones

Cooking sous vide, wrapped food submerged in warm to hot water, is a relatively new form of cooking now available to home cooks. The method truly does allow for transforming food in ways previously not possible with such precision. The best example of what it can do is short ribs. Short ribs cooked at 140˚ F. for 48 hours results in medium rare to medium meat, still pink, but completely tender. Pork belly cooked for that same time, then chilled is ready to be seared crispy when you’re ready to serve it. Chicken thighs and duck legs the same. Not only does sous vide give you precise control of the internal temperature of meat and fish, it gives you the convenience of preparing food in advance, ...

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Posted in Books, Elements of Cooking, food science, Holiday, Kitchen Technology, Kitchen Tools, Technique | Tagged , , , , , | 17 Comments

Gift Week: Affordable, Useful Gifts

When it comes to small great gifts, kitchen tools can’t be beat.  Items like the above Benriner mandoline, a tool you’ll find in just about every professional cook’s knife kit, is perfect. But there are many many ridiculous small brightly colored kitchen items out there tempting those who don’t cook with promises of ease and convenience . Last year my mom got me these pink silicone trussing bands —I do not recommend! This is the kind of stupid product that makes me crazy. But a great pepper mill, that’s something truly valuable—there are good ones and bad ones. Pugeot’s are excellent. This one from opensky is top of the line with an adjustable grind. The side towels I offer at opensky ...

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Posted in Holiday, Kitchen Tools | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 18 Comments

Big Green Egg Review

This summer, I tweeted that I had Big Green Egg envy, word that reached Ray Lampe, aka Dr. BBQ and Big Green Egg’s official chef. He convinced the company to ship me their top of the line (with the cypress wood table, which is awesome if you can afford it). I really wanted to cook with one because I’d heard such great things about it. (He’s @DrBBQ on twitter, and a hearty #FF to him). After we corresponded, I’d read about these ceramic charcoal heated ovens in The New York Times, generically called kamado cookers.  I accepted his offer enthusiastically.  So: Full disclosure: they sent it to me free; I told them I’d love to use it and write about it but to know that if I didn’t like it or ...

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Posted in baking, grilling, Video | Tagged , , , , , | 38 Comments

Gift Week: The Big Guns

This week’s posts will be devoted my personal kitchen tool gift guide, starting with the big guns. I got my first KitchenAid stand mixer 20 years ago as a Christmas gift from my mom’s boyfriend, Hap, and it was one of the best gifts I ever got. It’s the most used appliance in my kitchen. I’ve beaten the hell out of it, even flipped it off the countertop while trying to grind something particularly difficult. And it still runs. When Donna and I began doing photography for Twenty, we wanted something a little better to look at and so now use the above “Artisan” 5-quart model (linked to above). If you’re looking for that over-the-top gift for the one in your family who loves to cook, this can’t be beat. It’s what we tested all the ...

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Posted in Holiday, Kitchen Tools | Tagged , , , | 23 Comments

Ruhlman’s Twenty: The Calendar

Two years ago, Donna made a calendar of some of her favorite food shots. Last year she didn't and several people complained. So this year she made one using some of her favorite shots from Ruhlman's Twenty. I linked each one to one of the twenty techniques and also add some words about the technique and about the dish featured. The dates page includes process shots of the dish where there's room. They're printed on demand and shipped by Apple, so they're a little on the pricey side. Sorry, but unless we wanted to print 10,000 of them they are what they are, $38 delivered. If you would like a copy of Donna's Ruhlman's Twenty Calendar, it works like her ratio chart. Here's what to do: Go to paypal.com, an excellent and secure way to send money, sign in ...

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Posted in Books, New Media, ruhlman products | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments

Happy Thanksgiving! (stock from carcass recipe)

Of the many many reasons I have to be thankful, one of them is this blog and the enormously thoughtful, intelligent readers who drop by to read and comment. I truly am grateful. Thank you. I wish you all happy Thanksgiving (and hope that you have tons of fun in the kitchen today)! The above photo was taken on Thanksgiving 2007 (I'm struggling to hold the turkey up, but I think it's important to parade the bird before carving it—my mom found the platter in Mexico). That's my dad, Rip, with me. It would be the last Thanksgiving I would have with him. Three weeks after this day, he sat me and Donna down in front of the fire after dinner at his house. He had something to say. Recent X-rays showed a spot on his lung, he ...

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Posted in Holiday, Memories, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , | 20 Comments

Thanksgiving Turkey: Roast/Braise Method

 

Turkey: The Roast/Braise Method. All photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

The two great turkey conundrums: 1) how to have juicy breast meat and tender dark meat and 2) how to serve it all hot to a lot of people. Answer: the roast/braise method. Last year, chatting with my neighbor, the excellent chef Doug Katz (Fire Food and Drink), described how he cooks the turkey in stock up to the drumstick so that the legs braise while the breast and skin cook in dry heat. Last year I tried it and it works brilliantly. Thank you, Doug. Doug posted his version on the restaurant's blog. I've simplified and added a couple steps to make it easier for perfect doneness. (Step-by-step pix below.) The basic idea is this: cook the turkey half submerged in flavorful liquid and lots ...

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Posted in aromatics, baking, Braise, From Scratch, Holiday, Kitchen Tips, Recipes, Technique | Tagged , , , , , | 56 Comments

Turkey Gravy Recipe For Thanksgiving

Gravy is nothing more than flour-thickened stock/photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

People freak out about gravy. I don't know why. Gravy is easy as pie. Actually, a hell of a lot easier than pie. All it is, is a delicious, rich stock thickened with flour. In cooking school, they call it velouté, French for velvety. You take a great stock and give it a velvety texture. Flour-thickened sauces got a bad name when bad "French" restaurants served heavy terrible sauces. Properly prepared, flour-thickened sauces are light, flavorful, and refreshing. I prefer them to heavy reductions which, prepared thoughtlessly, are gluey with protein and make the tongue stick to the palate. The key is dispersing the flour uniformly through the sauce. We do this by combining the fat (butter, rendered chicken or turkey fat) so that the granules of ...

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Posted in aromatics, From Scratch, Holiday, Recipes, Technique | Tagged , , , , , , | 38 Comments
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