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Category Archives: Charcuterie
Ham: Butcher & Larder Style
Say you have a whole ham and your wife, named Donna, doesn't want the thing hanging in your closet for a year, drying out for prosciutto. Or you live in a fifth-floor walk-up in Manhattan and don't have a wife named Donna but you also don't have a closet, let alone a drying room. Or you have a whole ham but do not have a holiday dinner to prepare and fourteen people to feed.
Such is usually the case, in fact, so what do you do with a whole ham? I get this question all the time. The answer is that you break it down into smaller, ...
Also posted in Butchery, Food Writing, Pork! Tagged butchery, Chicago, ham, pork, Rob Levitt, The Butcher & Larder 23 Comments
Chicken Sausage
Today my Friday cocktail will be a daiquiri here in Palm Beach. Or you could instead sit down with a Lagunitas IPA and a few homemade chicken sausages; this recipe originally appears in Charcuterie.
Chicken Sausage with Basil and Tomatoes
- 3 1⁄2 pounds/1.5 kilograms boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cubed
- 1 1⁄2 pounds/675 grams pork back fat, cubed, diced into 1-inch pieces
- 3 tablespoons/40 grams kosher salt
- 1 teaspoon/3 grams freshly ground black pepper
- 1 1⁄2 teaspoons/9 grams minced garlic
- 4 tablespoons/24 grams tightly packed chopped fresh basil
- 1⁄2 cup/100 grams fresh diced roma (plum) tomatoes
- 1⁄4 cup/60 grams diced sun-dried tomatoes
- 1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters red wine vinegar, chilled
- 1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters extra virgin olive oil
- 1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters dry red wine, chilled
- 10 feet/3 meters hog casings, soaked in tepid water for at ...
Also posted in aromatics, Butchery, Recipes Tagged chicken sausage, Donna Turner Ruhlman, photography, recipe, vacation 14 Comments
Pigstock, Traverse City, Michigan
I had one of the most inspiring days of my life Monday, watching Austrian farmer/butcher Christoph Wiesner kill and dress a hog. See video below of evisceration shot by Austrian journalist Jürgen Schmücking, covering Pigstock TC and Michigan wines and beers.
We met on Marc Santucci's farm, on a warm fall day, surrounded by leaves, apple trees, and tall grass. The pigs were rooting in an open-air pen, where the slaughter took place.
Christoph stunned the pig with a bolt. He explained that it was important to do this with the pig in its natural position—less stress on both animal and muscle, which can be harmed by the ...
Also posted in Butchery, chefs, Farming, Food Adventure, Food Culture, Food Politics, Food Safety, Pork! Tagged brian polcyn, Jürgen Schmücking, magalista, michigan, Pigstock, Traverse City, wooly pigs Comments closed
Salumi Video & Tour Events
On Saturday night in Cambridge, on a young friend’s recommendation, we dined at The Russell House Tavern, near Harvard Square, where chef Michael Scelfo and his mischievous band of cooks put out excellent high-end tavern fare. I was delighted when my 13-year-old son perused the menu and immediately asked, “Can we get the charcuterie board?”
This question has only one correct response. I especially appreciated Scelfo's pork rillettes, which were topped with a creamy layer of duck fat. Scelfo has a menu that would seem to be designed exactly for me, with items such as “Pig’s Head Cake” and “Crispy Pork Belly Sandwich,” but also deviled eggs and superb fried oysters.
But it was the fact that he, like so many other chefs, offered charcuterie. Indeed the charcuterie or salumi board is now ubiquitous in American restaurants. A charcuterie board even made it onto an episode ...
Also posted in Books, chefs, Salumi Tagged brian polcyn, butcher & larder, charcuterie, Chicago, Cleveland, El Ideas, Illinois, michigan, ohio, Pigstock, Salumi, Traverse City Comments closed
Labor Day Weekend Hot Dog Buns
I had an unstoppable hunger this past weekend for old-Chicago-style all-beef hotdogs from Vienna Beef, the best hotdog in the country in my opinion. I wanted that charred skin flavor of summer, the grill smoke from fat dripping on coals, the juicy snap when you bite into them. I decided to make buns. Why? Because, we were inviting friends (great food must be shared); I had a cool hot dog pan from American Pan; I had never made them before; and most important, the best hot dogs deserve special treatment. One of the great things about cooking is that you're subliminally eating the entire time, a kind of calorie-free spiritual nourishment, and I was thinking about the hot dogs the whole time in ...
Also posted in baking, Beef, Bread, From Scratch, Recipes Tagged baking, bread, hot dog buns, recipe Comments closed




















