Really tried not to let the pesky book flogging cut into the food blogging, but it’s tough when airport concourses don’t have free internet access. I was delighted to return home to see, via serious eats that The Onion had included Elements of Cooking in its highly specific holiday gift guide under the heading, “For Amateur Cooks Who Like to Feel Guilty.” But I don’t want to invoke guilt. And I must reiterate, I am not saying to people use homemade stock instead of canned broth, I’m saying use WATER instead of canned broth.
Great idea for a story from NYTimes reporter Kim Severson, about time: the death of the entree. When I go to an ambitious restaurant, I don’t want a three-plop meal. Big piece of meat, big pile o’ starch and the because-it’s-good-for-you veg. Unless I'm going to a steak house, I want to see as much of that restaurant’s food as possible. Which is why I almost always order exclusively appetizers. Frank Bruni, in his blog, defends the entrée, but I can only believe that he longs for a single entrée because it’s the one thing he can never have at a restaurant—his work forces him to try as much as possible. I also think that if more people ordered several small courses rather than one huge entrée, we’d eat less and chefs wouldn’t feel like they have to serve us in super-size quantities.
And last, I was quoted in this story in the Washington Post about Michel Richard and his new restaurants and had a brief email exchange with the reporter, Jane Black, about her claim that “Today, [Richard] is able to take advantage of diners' growing acceptance that the master chef isn't always in the kitchen…” Is this true, are diners becoming more accepting of the chef’s not being in their restaurants? I hope so, because it will indicate that more people understand the nature of the business and the work of the chef, but I don’t know.