Skills with Pardus, 1996

For a project I’m working on, I’m trying to reach people I had Skills with, oh so long ago.  If you happen on this post and  learned how to make veal stock and fish velouté and sauce Robert and  duchess potatoes and cauliflower...

Elements of Cooking: Brown Butter

Beurre noir [bur nwoir], beurre noisette [bur nwoi-ZET] and brown butter:  These are related terms for brown butter and are sometimes used interchangeably.  Beurre noir means black butter and often designates a sauce made with brown butter, lemon juice,...

The Generosity of Chefs

In today’s NYTimes magazine food column, I write about a facet of the chef’s life that few people stop to consider: because of the nature of their business and the products they work with, they are besieged year-round to help others raise money.  In...

Liver Crudo and Broken Arrow Ranch

Would you ever dine solely on various courses of offal?  No, but doing so, is exactly as illuminating as Chris Cosentino intended it to be on Tuesday night’s offal tasting at Astor Center (described here by gothamist and here and here, by two diners at the same...

Elements of Cooking: Offal

Offal:  The innards and extremities of animals, also called variety meats, offer an enticing range of flavors, textures, and preparations that exceed in number and satisfaction those that can be achieved with standard muscle cuts.  What was once common in an...