Tag Archives: Vanity Fair

Are Tasting Menus the Way Toward “Art”?

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 26, 2013

Chefs at work at The Breslin. Photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Cooks, Chefs, or Artists? Photos (at NYC's Breslin) by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

“I always say this to the young chefs and mean it: The customer is excited, he says you are an artist, but we are not, just craftspeople with a little talent. If the chef is an artist, he doesn’t succeed. Why? Because he is inspired today but not tomorrow. We cannot do that.” —Andre Soltner (quoted in Forbes, May 2012) Back in in the fall of 2008, nearly five years ago, I moderated a discussion between Tony Bourdain and Marco Pierre White (insofar as those two former chefs can be moderated at all). MPW railed against the multi-course tasting menu, and Bourdain reiterated it, while Grant Achatz, feeling personally attacked, fumed in ...

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Posted in Article, Rant | Also tagged Anthony Bourdain, chef tasting, Corby Kummer, Grant Achatz, Marco Pierre White, rant, Restaurants | Comments closed

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