Tag Archives: twenty

How To Fry Chicken

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 9, 2012

The chicken wings I made for a Super Bowl party. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Fried chicken, done right, is one of the best things to eat on earth. It's all about the proportions—crunchiness: juiciness: chewiness: savoriness. And this ratio hits golden proportions with the wing, lots of crunchy peppery surface area and sweet succulent meat. The study of fried chicken began for me in 2007 during discussions, observations and eating with chef Dave Cruz at Ad Hoc in Yountville, CA, as we worked on the book Ad Hoc at Home. While Ad Hoc's method of flour-buttermilk-flour is not unique, their trial and error experimentation with various methods (including sous vide), proved to them and to me, that this method is indeed superlative. That was 2007, and I've since fried a lot of chicken. My recipe is in Click to Continue Reading

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Posted in american regional cuisine, Donna Turner Ruhlman Photography, Main Courses, Recipes, Seasonings and Spices, Technique | Also tagged , , | 33 Comments

Eastern North Carolina BBQ

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 2, 2012

Pulled pork sandwich, from Ruhlman's Twenty. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

With these last few posts on cooking for groups, it occurred to me that I should post one of my go-to, fabulously easy, always-gets-raves main course that serves a lot of people.  East Carolina barbecue, called pulled pork here up north. When I arrived at Duke University in Durham, North Carolina, from Cleveland, Ohio, in the 1980s I knew the word barbecue to be a verb. You did it on a grill. As a noun, it meant a gathering to eat food cooked on a grill—it was something you had, something you invited neighbors to. But on the drive back from a place called Jugtown (to get there we’d gone through a town called Whynot, with a church named after the town; loved that), we stopped at what looked ...

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Posted in american regional cuisine, Books, Main Courses, Recipes, Sandwiches, sauce | Also tagged , , | 55 Comments

Do-over: Charleston, Eve, & Grits

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: December 13, 2011

Shrimp and grits. photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

One of hard things about writing books is that they are in constant flux and then they are permanent. Thanks to the organic nature of blogs, I can make amends. When I was at the Culinary Institute of America, one of my best and favorite teachers was Eve Felder, who taught Garde Manger. She was the Cheshire Cat of chefs, perched high on stacked stools, who taught us that "Cooking is alchemy, cooking is magic!" And she was right. Righter than I knew, in fact. I'm heading to her native city, Charleston, South Carolina, and so she's been on my mind. When I wanted to do a butter-poached shrimp for Ruhlman's Twenty, I naturally wanted to pair it with grits. Who did I call for grits finesse ...

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Posted in american regional cuisine, Appetizers, aromatics, chefs, Food Writing, From Scratch, Recipes, Seafood, Seasonings and Spices, sidedishes, Technique | Also tagged , , , , | 22 Comments

Ruhlman’s Twenty: Food Tools

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: December 7, 2011

I did two promotional videos for my new book, one a general description of the book (love that that one has a shot of Donna photographing, and one about an idea I thought people might call me out on. Even my recipe tester/organizer/overseer, Marlene Newell, had issues with this. Can food be a technique? I say it can. A technique is an action that has multiple applications. So while yes, an egg is an egg, it’s also an emulsifier, a leavener, a binder, and enricher. Therefore using an egg can be considered a core cooking technique. Knowing how to use salt, is one of the chef’s greatest assets. Learning how to think about these foods as tools makes you a better cook. Disagree? I’ve heard ...

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Posted in baking, Books, Elements of Cooking, Food Writing, From Scratch, ruhlman products, Technique, Tips | Also tagged , , , , | 11 Comments

Ruhlman’s Twenty: The Calendar

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: November 25, 2011

Two years ago, Donna made a calendar of some of her favorite food shots. Last year she didn't and several people complained. So this year she made one using some of her favorite shots from Ruhlman's Twenty. I linked each one to one of the twenty techniques and also add some words about the technique and about the dish featured. The dates page includes process shots of the dish where there's room. They're printed on demand and shipped by Apple, so they're a little on the pricey side. Sorry, but unless we wanted to print 10,000 of them they are what they are, $38 delivered. If you would like a copy of Donna's Ruhlman's Twenty Calendar, it works like her ratio chart. Here's what to do: Go to paypal.com, an excellent and secure way to send money, sign in ...

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Butter-Poached Shrimp and Grits

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: November 12, 2011

Butter-Poached shrimp and grits from Ruhlman's Twenty/photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Just the name is inspiring: butter-poached shrimp.  Butter-poached shrimp and grits. Mmmm. Butter-poached lobster, not uncommon in French haute cuisine, was popularized in America by Thomas Keller in The French Laundry Cookbook and at that restaurant. "Lobster loves gentle heat," he told me then. It's not much of a leap for the thrifty-minded cook to reason that shrimp, too, love gentle heat. That's why, in the butter chapter of my new book, I showed how to use butter as a cooking medium (one of the many amazing ways butter can be used as a tool). This dish is absolutely killer. The shrimp stay very tender, rich and tasty with the butter; the grits are then enriched with the shrimp butter. Leftover butter can be used ...

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Posted in Books, From Scratch, Recipes, Seafood | Also tagged , , , , , | Comments closed

The Martha Stewart Show

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: November 10, 2011

Photos by Rob Tannenbaum/The Martha Stewart Show

Martha actually laughs! I was on The Martha Stewart Show, taped Monday in front of a crazily exuberant audience, on behalf of the new book, Twenty, and I saw it myself. Lord knows what we were laughing about. I haven't a clue. You go kind of senseless when you're not in front of Martha every day and there she is—felt exactly like jumping out of an airplane for the first time. But one of the things I've always admired about her show is there's none of that forced cheer and goofy laughter. So when she laughs it's real and affecting. I've done my share of TV but have never, ever been nervous. I was so nervous that morning. I brought three shirts and a valium. When ...

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Brioche Revisited

By emilia | Published: November 8, 2011

 

brioche

Freshly sliced brioche. Photo by Donna

Michael has been traveling all around the United States promoting his new book Ruhlman's Twenty.  Yesterday he had a long day in New York City where he appeared on the Martha Stewart Show.  Michael sends his apologies, as he is nursing a wicked hangover.  He returns to Cleveland today and will be appearing at the Fabulous Food Show this weekend.  Please enjoy this favorite post of mine on how to Make Brioche.  This post reminds you to begin preparing for the holiday season, which is quickly approaching. Original Post Date: November 30, 2010 December is the month for making brioche at home. It's the great holiday bread.  Though calling it bread doesn't do it justice.  Good brioche is like a cross between bread and cake.  Hell, it's really ...

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Posted in Books, Bread, Bread App, Breakfast, From Scratch, Recipes | Also tagged , , , , | Comments closed

Twenty in the News

By emilia | Published: November 2, 2011

There has been a flurry of activity in regards to Michael's new book Ruhlman's Twenty it is featured in today's Chicago Tribune; "20 Steps to Better Cooking".  Joe Crea from Cleveland's The Plain Dealer writes about a few of the Twenty techniques, in "Michael Ruhlman's 'Twenty' Recipes.  Russ Parson's of the LA Times has also reviewed Twenty.     Upcoming Ruhlman Events Tonight at 6:00pm see Michael at Lantern in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. Thursday Michael is back in Ohio for the Cleveland Culinary Challenge that is being held at the Tri-C Hospitality Management Center. On November 11 & 12 see Michael at the Fabulous Food Show in Cleveland. To learn more about events follow Michael on Facebook and Twitter.

 

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Ruhlman in Chicago

By emilia | Published: October 10, 2011

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