One of the conundrum of grilling meat is that the process of cooking doesn’t start a sauce for you, as a roast chicken does, as pan roasting a pork loin does, as all braises do. What then to sauce the meat with?  An emulsified butter sauce is the perfect answer.  And there is no better emulsified butter sauce than the Béarnaise.  This French classic was a childhood staple, a symbol for me of plenty, and also of the security my mom and dad gave me.  I wrote about it for Parade Magazine many years ago. My mom made it the old fashioned way: a reduction of shallot, tarragon, tarragon vinegar, and egg yolks in a double boiler.  She used the recipe from James Beard’s Menus For Entertaining.  (It’s also in his superb American Cookery, one Read On »

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Corn is in and with the hot weather, there’s no better way to cook corn than to grill it. People have asked me what’s the best way to do it? There are two basic ways, depending on what you’re after. Corn today is so sweet and tender, it only needs to be heated through, so your decision is really one about types of heat to use, high direct heat, which will brown the corn giving it a grilled flavor, or low temperature, steamed within its wet husk. I like both and the above corn which we ate after a day at the beach (sigh), used a little of both. I love the appearance because it tells you how it was cooked.  If I want a really smoke roasted caramelized flavor, I’d shuck the corn and Read On »

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Taking a breather and have have been eating load upon load of NC clams. So good and so delicious.   The Perfect Way To Cook Clams Use the little guys, little necks or cherrystones. Saute some garlic in a big pot in some butter or oil. Add a cup of white wine and a cup of water (all depends on your pot, you want plenty of steam). Throw in some fresh thyme, dump in your clams, cover and cook on medium high or high. Melt some butter. When the clams open they’re done. If you have a lot, take out the open ones so they don’t over cook. Eat them standing up, dipping clams in butter. If you want, strain the pot liquor through a coffee filter and use to make a clam chowder or Read On »

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For Friday’s weekly grill post I want to feature green beans.  These are awesome on the grill.  Strictly speaking, you don’t need a grilling basket, but they do make the work much easier.  (I offer these at OpenSky for those who follow.)  Baskets are fairly common these days and they do make all kinds of grilling of stuff that might fall through.  If you don’t have a basket, this same technique and recipe will work with asparagus as well. I like to toss the green veg in olive oil to which I’ve added smashed or minced garlic, and put them over high direct heat, tossing or turning them every few minutes or so.  They cook in about 7-10 minutes. If you like heat, add some dried red chilli flakes. If you like seasoning that goes Read On »

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Looking for a new bbq side to add to your repertoire? Maybe a pickle, a slaw, some beans, or a salad check out the recipes, via Saveur.

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