I hate tofu. That’s been my knee-jerk response pretty much since tasting it the first time and every time I had it after. It wasn’t so much that it had no flavor—nothing really not to like about that; what’s not to like about nothing?—it was rather the lack of flavor combined with its curdy texture. I remember talking with Michael Symon in his restaurant Lola in Cleveland when he was trying to come up with a vegetarian or vegan dish to put on the menu that used tofu. I asked, “Why do you want to do that?” “I don’t know,” he said. “I hate tofu.” And that was that. No tofu on the Lola menu. So when Andrea Nguyen, a cook and writer whom I met at the Greenbrier food writers’ symposium and whom I Read On »

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