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Kreplach (Dumplings)
My neighbor, Lois Baron, gave me a version of this recipe, which calls for roasting and braising a beef brisket. When I told her I intended to give it a shot using leftover pot roast she said, excellent idea! Kreplach, a great way to make use of leftovers. Kreplack are often called Jewish ravioli, a staple of Jewish cuisine. Consistent with that cuisine, the main item is cooked, then it's cooked again, and then its cooked again. (Why is this?!) At least in Lois's recipe. A brisket is roasted, then it's braised, then it's ground with seasonings and egg, wrapped in dough, boiled, cooled then cooked to serve. That's three times that it gets fully cooked before being eaten. These are traditionally used in soup, and they're great that way, but Lois fried some ...
Posted in Beef, Ethnic Cuisine, Guest Post, Recipes Also tagged Beef Kreplach, Jewish Cuisine, Kosher, Lois Baron 25 Comments
The Egg and the Pressure Cooker
This guest post is thanks to twitter, when someone asked me about pressure cooking eggs. I had never done them, but Laura Pazzaglia had. Laura is a pressure-cooker maniac living in Italy and blogging at hippressurecooking.com. My friend Annie LaG took her up on how to cook easy-peel hard-cooked eggs and pronounced them amazing. I have long been a fan of the egg and recently a fan of the pressure cooker (here's the one I use, via Opensky.com). I love it especially when I want to have a quick stew ready for a weeknight dinner. A 2 to 4 hour stew can be completed start to finish in under and hour. But the egg and the pressure cooker came together on twitter. I invited Laura ...
Posted in Appetizers, Eggs, Guest Post, Kitchen Technology, Kitchen Tips, pressure cooker, Recipes | Also tagged boiled, cocotte, Eggs, hip pressure cooking, Laura Pazzaglia, pressure cooker | 36 Comments
How To Fry Chicken
Fried chicken, done right, is one of the best things to eat on earth. It's all about the proportions—crunchiness: juiciness: chewiness: savoriness. And this ratio hits golden proportions with the wing, lots of crunchy peppery surface area and sweet succulent meat.
The study of fried chicken began for me in 2007 during discussions, observations and eating with chef Dave Cruz at Ad Hoc in Yountville, CA, as we worked on the book Ad Hoc at Home. While Ad Hoc's method of flour-buttermilk-flour is not unique, their trial and error experimentation with various methods (including sous vide), proved to them and to me, that this method is indeed superlative.
That was 2007, and I've since fried a lot of chicken. My recipe is in Click to Continue Reading
Posted in american regional cuisine, Donna Turner Ruhlman Photography, Main Courses, Recipes, Seasonings and Spices, Technique | Also tagged food photography, fried chicken, twenty | 33 Comments
Giardiniera
Posted in Appetizers, aromatics, Article, Recipes, Vegetables | Also tagged giardiniera, new york times, pickled vegetables | Leave a comment
Current Scones
Posted in Article, baking, Recipes | Also tagged baking, Celiac Teen, currant scones, gluten-free | Leave a comment
Britta’s Glogg
I'd been looking for a long ago recipe card used by my parents titled "Britta's Glogg" to do a post about it (and because I hadn't made it in years). Then all of a sudden I start seeing recipes for mulled wine all over the place. I don't remember seeing any in years and then, two different ones from just in the NYTimes alone, one in the Sunday Magazine, another by writer Melissa Clark.
It was not the drinking of the glogg that stays in the memory—it wasn't till later that I would actually have been drinking it—it was the aroma of it. I've recently become aware of how powerful the smells of food cooking in house are. They are a natural stress reliever. ...
Posted in aromatics, Cocktails, Ethnic Cuisine, Holiday, Recipes | Also tagged cocktails, glogg, holiday, mulled wine, warm drinks | 9 Comments
Christmas Yorkshire Pudding
Marlene Newell, who runs an excellent cooking forum called CooksKorner tested all the recipes for Ratio and Twenty. She's a friend and excellent cook. One of her passions is Yorkshire pudding, in effect, a savory popover, which is how she bakes them (as above). I, too, make roast beef for Christmans dinner and Yorkshire pudding. I believe it's critical to cook it in beef fat, for flavor, so I buy and render suet for this purpose. I've also poured the batter straight into the roasting pan which works great so long as there are no burnt bits (the pudding ripples and puffs like crazy; I then cut it to serve). I imagine the roasting pan method was how it would have originated, the batter cooking in ...
Posted in baking, Beef, Books, Bread, Food Writing, From Scratch, Guest Post, Holiday, Memories, Recipes | Also tagged canada, Cooks Korner, Marlene Newell, roasts, Yorkshire Pudding | 19 Comments
Featuring Fondue
Posted in Appetizers, Article, Recipes | Also tagged cheese, fondue, holiday, Huffington Post | Leave a comment
Cheese Ball
Posted in Appetizers, Article, Recipes | Also tagged appetizer, bacon jalapeno, cheese, homesick texan | Leave a comment
Springerle Cookies
Posted in Article, baking, Holiday, Pastry, Recipes | Also tagged cookies, holiday, molds, Springerle, wall street journal | Leave a comment
















