Photos by donna [I'm on a blog break from 5/17 through 5/31, so I'm putting up favorite food posts from the archives, this one on quiche published last July] On Wednesday I flew to Washington to make a quiche at the restaurant Proof for a segment on “All Things Considered” with one of the show’s new hosts, Guy Raz.  Guy said he read the Slate review of the book, which called my book Ratio “fascinating and pompous,” and was intrigued.  So he and his producer, Phil Harrel, requested a dish that combined two ratios.  Quiche immediately came to mind, using both the 3-2-1 pie dough ratio (I’ve lost track of the number of people who have written to thank me for getting them over their fear of pie dough) and the custard ratio (2 parts Read On »

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I’ve been shooting my mouth off a lot about the wonders of veal stock, in the new book, in Gourmet magazine all the way back in 1999 (here’s the braised short ribs that featured the veal stock), and over this past weekend on The Splendid Table.  You can listen at their site, and here’s the recipe I gave them but I’m going to make it even more simple here. My main points about the veal stock (photo by donna) are these: almost no one has written about the special qualities of veal stock since Richard Olney in the 70s and this is unfortunate. If there were one ingredient that the home cook could have that would transform absolutely his or her cooking, one that would put it close to the level of the professional chef, Read On »

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