Tag Archives: rant

Stephanie’s Cheese Rant

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: May 29, 2013

Cheese. Photo by Stephanie

Cheese. Photo by Stephanie.

Stephanie Stiavetti (@sstiavetti) writes The Culinary Life blog. Her first book, Melt: The Art of Macaroni and Cheese, will be published next year by Little, Brown. by Stephanie Stiavetti If you're a regular reader of Michael's site, then you're probably one of a class of people that thinks a lot about food. You might make it a point to buy quality ingredients, mostly prepare your meals at home, and generally spend a fair amount of time thinking about what you put in your body. What baffles me, though, is that despite all the grass-fed beef and produce carefully selected at the local farmers' market, a huge number of the people in this food-conscious demographic still buy crappy, industrially produced cheese. These folks have educated themselves about many other aspects of what ...

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Posted in Article, cheese, Farming, Food Politics, Guest Post | Also tagged , , , , , | 47 Comments

America Has a Serious Eating Disorder

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: May 15, 2013

Danger: salt is back. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Danger: salt is back. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

No, wrong. America has a serious THINKING disorder. See that white stuff raining down from my fingers? It’s salt. And it’s the way you should salt the food you cook on your stove top or the chicken that’s going into your oven. But if you listen to the ABC Nightly News reporting about The Dangers of Salt, aka ABC News acid reflux, and then read today’s NYTimes page one story saying that salt is not bad for you, you must be wondering who to listen to. Well if you are, just stop listening and think for your fucking self. I have a dear friend who prevents his kids from drinking any milk other than nonfat milk but thinks nothing of serving ...

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Posted in Article, Books, Food Politics, Food Safety, food science, Food Writing, health, Rant, Seasonings and Spices | Also tagged , , , , , , | 92 Comments

Cook Your Own Food. Eat What You Want.
(Think for Yourself.)

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: March 14, 2013

Salt and fat does a body ight or wrong? Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Salt and fat are good for you! Salt and fat are bad for you! Oh my God, what should I do? Everyone, run and hide! Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I’d have thought that an article in last Sunday’s New York Times Magazine, Eat Your Heart Out by Gretchen Reynolds, would have made me happy. I’ve long argued that America’s terror of fat and salt is misguided and blown grossly out of proportion. But all the piece did was make me mad. It notes a study that found that men with heart disease who reduced their intake of meat and saturated fats and increased the polyunsaturated fats in their diet were more likely to die of a heart attack than the control group who maintained their customary diet. ...

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Posted in Article, Food Business, Food Culture, Food Safety, food science, Rant | Also tagged , , , , | Comments closed

Tasting Menu: A Reading

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 28, 2013

This 12-minute reading is from The Soul of a Chef, on my first experience with a tasting menu. Though I had special consideration at the meal—I was not a paying customer—it is an honest and emotional description of what remains the most important restaurant meal of my life. I thought it apropos, following my previous post addressing recent criticisms in the media of today's tasting menus. It's not a polished video—I simply set up a tripod in my kitchen before dinner and read—so please forgive my lack of video production skills! [For more information on what led up to my unlikely passage from unknown Cleveland-based writer to dinner at The French Laundry and what was to follow, read The Main Dish, a 35-page memoir of becoming an accidental food writer. It was published as a Kindle Single, $1.99, and is available on ...

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Are Tasting Menus the Way Toward “Art”?

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 26, 2013

 

Chefs at work at The Breslin. Photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Cooks, Chefs, or Artists? Photos (at NYC's Breslin) by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

“I always say this to the young chefs and mean it: The customer is excited, he says you are an artist, but we are not, just craftspeople with a little talent. If the chef is an artist, he doesn’t succeed. Why? Because he is inspired today but not tomorrow. We cannot do that.” —Andre Soltner (quoted in Forbes, May 2012) Back in in the fall of 2008, nearly five years ago, I moderated a discussion between Tony Bourdain and Marco Pierre White (insofar as those two former chefs can be moderated at all). MPW railed against the multi-course tasting menu, and Bourdain reiterated it, while Grant Achatz, feeling personally attacked, fumed in ...

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