Ruth Reichl addressing the IACP conference in Portland Thursday
Nine hours door to door from Cleveland to my hotel room and I was hungry. The fine folks in Portland organizing the International Association of Culinary professionals, had filled the room with Portland products, wine beer coffee candy and, lo, some serious local beef jerky. Dense sweet salty savory concentrated protein, like candy. I knew I’d arrived in a good place.
Ruth Reichl opened the conference the following morning with remarks on the subject that continues to dog her, Gourmet's end, and her desire to put it in a broader context.
“What happened at Gourmet says a lot about where we are on the food landscape” she said, adding, “I should have seen it coming but I didn’t.”
Why didn’t she see the death of this eminent, arguably best, food magazine in ...
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