Tag Archives: holiday

Latke Recipe

Try a new parsnip latke to spice up your holiday season, via Smitten Kitchen.

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Christmas Wishes

It's been a long day of wrapping and cooking in preparation for Christmas, amazingly stress free because of my amazing wife and colleague Donna. Her photo above is something of a self-portrait of us on the Christmas tree. Mom and James made cookies and I made our annual Addison's Brioche.  Mom wants to use it to make sticky buns so we'll fill some muffin pans with brown sugar, butter and pecans, top each with the brioche and refrigerate till tomorrow morning. It's become a tradition. As has the reading of Twas the Night Before Christmas before bed. Traditions are powerful indeed. The day has also been occasion to think about how lucky I am, for Donna, for Donna's work, for the health of my children, on this bountiful holiday. I miss my dad who was the very embodiment of The ...

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Posted in Food Writing, Holiday, Memories | Also tagged , , , | 12 Comments

Britta’s Glogg

Glogg was a staple of my childhood Christmases. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I'd been looking for a long ago recipe card used by my parents titled "Britta's Glogg" to do a post about it (and because I hadn't made it in years). Then all of a sudden I start seeing recipes for mulled wine all over the place. I don't remember seeing any in years and then, two different ones from just in the NYTimes alone, one in the Sunday Magazine, another by writer Melissa Clark. It was not the drinking of the glogg that stays in the memory—it wasn't till later that I would actually have been drinking it—it was the aroma of it. I've recently become aware of how powerful the smells of food cooking in house are. They are a natural stress reliever. ...

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Posted in aromatics, Cocktails, Ethnic Cuisine, Holiday, Recipes | Also tagged , , , , | 9 Comments

Christmas Dinner: The Grill/Roast Technique

Roast beef mise en place. Photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

On Thanksgiving, I offered a roast/braise combination cooking technique for turkey. Interesting that I use a dual cooking technique for our traditional holiday Christmas meal as well. The Grill/Roast method, which I write about in Ruhlman's Twenty. I don’t think there’s a better way to cook a rack of beef (or a whole beef tenderloin) than this combination grill-roast method. It gives the meat great grilled flavor and allows you perfect control of temperatures and timing. I use the method in during holidays, to serve beef tenderloin sandwiches on a buffet or a rack of beef for a large group of people because I can grill the beef a day ahead if I want and then just finish it in the oven. Flavor the meat on ...

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Posted in appearance, aromatics, baking, Beef, Butchery, grilling, Holiday, outdoor cooking, Recipes, Technique | Also tagged , , , | 21 Comments

Featuring Fondue

Winter is the season for cheesy fun fondue, a classic and truly delicious, via Huffington Post.

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Springerle Cookies

These cookies are beautiful additions to your holiday cookie repertoire & check out those molds, via WSJ.

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Winter Treats

Find out more about winter food classics starting from A to Z, via Guardian UK.

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Give the Gift of Sous Vide

Sous Vide cooking manual. Photo by Deborah Jones

Cooking sous vide, wrapped food submerged in warm to hot water, is a relatively new form of cooking now available to home cooks. The method truly does allow for transforming food in ways previously not possible with such precision. The best example of what it can do is short ribs. Short ribs cooked at 140˚ F. for 48 hours results in medium rare to medium meat, still pink, but completely tender. Pork belly cooked for that same time, then chilled is ready to be seared crispy when you’re ready to serve it. Chicken thighs and duck legs the same. Not only does sous vide give you precise control of the internal temperature of meat and fish, it gives you the convenience of preparing food in advance, ...

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Posted in Books, Elements of Cooking, food science, Holiday, Kitchen Technology, Kitchen Tools, Technique | Also tagged , , , , | 17 Comments

Gift Week: Affordable, Useful Gifts

When it comes to small great gifts, kitchen tools can’t be beat.  Items like the above Benriner mandoline, a tool you’ll find in just about every professional cook’s knife kit, is perfect. But there are many many ridiculous small brightly colored kitchen items out there tempting those who don’t cook with promises of ease and convenience . Last year my mom got me these pink silicone trussing bands —I do not recommend! This is the kind of stupid product that makes me crazy. But a great pepper mill, that’s something truly valuable—there are good ones and bad ones. Pugeot’s are excellent. This one from opensky is top of the line with an adjustable grind. The side towels I offer at opensky ...

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Posted in Holiday, Kitchen Tools | Also tagged , , , , , , , | 18 Comments

Thanksgiving Turkey: Roast/Braise Method

 

Turkey: The Roast/Braise Method. All photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

The two great turkey conundrums: 1) how to have juicy breast meat and tender dark meat and 2) how to serve it all hot to a lot of people. Answer: the roast/braise method. Last year, chatting with my neighbor, the excellent chef Doug Katz (Fire Food and Drink), described how he cooks the turkey in stock up to the drumstick so that the legs braise while the breast and skin cook in dry heat. Last year I tried it and it works brilliantly. Thank you, Doug. Doug posted his version on the restaurant's blog. I've simplified and added a couple steps to make it easier for perfect doneness. (Step-by-step pix below.) The basic idea is this: cook the turkey half submerged in flavorful liquid and lots ...

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Posted in aromatics, baking, Braise, From Scratch, Holiday, Kitchen Tips, Recipes, Technique | Also tagged , , , , | Comments closed
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