Tag Archives: france

Farm Transparency v. Farm Secrecy

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 11, 2013

A foie gras farmer feeding her ducks. Photo by Michael Ruhlman.

A foie gras farmer feeding her ducks during the brief period of gavage. The ducks at the bottom of the photo showed no signs of illness or discomfort (they were quite merry, actually, if that's possible). Photo by Michael Ruhlman.

Last summer, on assignment for Condé Nast Traveler, I visited a farm that raises ducks for foie gras, driven there along harrowing roads in southwestern France by Kate Hill. I'd never seen the practice, vilified in America, of force-feeding ducks and, being in the land of foie gras and confit de canard, I had to see for myself. The farm, Souleilles, run by Yves and Geneviève Boissière, is wide, wide open in the town of Frespech. The husband and wife were warm and welcoming and ...

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Posted in Article, Business, Butchery, Farming, Food Business, Food Politics, Food Safety, Rant | Also tagged , , , , , , , , , | 43 Comments

Future of Chinese Wine

By Emilia | Published: March 5, 2012

China is getting into the wine game, some French houses are expanding their operations there, via Independent UK.  

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Bocuse d’Or—Post Game

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: January 28, 2011

Parading Team USA's "Manhattan" meat platter before judges/Photo by Joshua David Stein

Just returned to snowy Clevelandtown, a twenty-two hour haul from Lyon via Heathrow and O’Hare, thinking all the while on the Bocuse d’Or competition and feeling bad for Team USA, and wondering what to make of it all. “This was a tough one to swallow,” Chef Kaysen wrote in an email, hours after the competition.  “I think I need some months to really draw all the inspiration that was seen there.  I realized in the beginning of the day after seeing both Denmark and Sweden that we did not play the game—we went there and did our food, we did what we thought was right because we loved it so much, but clearly there is a defined game in the way that food that ...

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Bocuse d’Or 2011

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: January 24, 2011

Bocuse d'Or Team USA

James Kent, left, and Tom Allan will represent the US in Lyon this week.

What do culinary competitions mean in America? Reality shows on Bravo and the Food Network pitting chefs against one another have made compelling TV and earned huge audiences here, but actual not-made-for-TV competitions remain off the radar. American chefs who competed in them were relative unknowns, and the most well-known chefs, those with high profile restaurants, tended to dismiss them for their old fashioned, aspic-coated food platters and the hotel and country club chefs who created them. But in 2008, one of the most revered chefs in the world, Paul Bocuse, famed both for his food and his restaurant as well as his unusual media savvy, aimed to change that by attempting to elevate the competition he ...

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