Tag Archives: Eggs

Final Word on Battle of the Spoons
(with Crème Anglaise)

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 18, 2013

Creme angliase. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

A perfect crème anglaise. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

The television personality and cookbook author Ted Allen stirred up a shit storm this week by calling me out on my hatred of the round wooden spoon, which he apparently has the hots for. He happened to mention our exchange at a City Harvest event to Eric Ripert, executive chef of Le Bernardin, one of the finest restaurants in the country, with whom I’ve worked closely, who added a little more caca to the pot by tweeting "Crème anglaise? Since the days of Escoffier, stir with a wood spoon, Ruhlman." He then phoned me to further faire caca into my cell phone until he conceded that it was the wood, not a round wood spoon, then was evasive, said a client ...

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Posted in Books, Desserts, egg, Recipes, sauce | Also tagged , , , , , , | 64 Comments

Making Mayonnaise

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: March 18, 2013

Homemade mayonnaise is faster to make then you think. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

You can't buy this kind of mayonnaise. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Yet again finishing up a manuscript with mayonnaise on my mind, and I always think of Donna's lovely images, captured when spring light was coming through our kitchen window. I could look at these forever (and now, as I couldn't five years ago, I can post them to Twitter). Thanks, Donna! And remember, the emulsion is less about the yolk than about the liquid. Originally posted on May 21, 2008 Finishing up the revisions of a manuscript and going over some fat-based sauces has returned me to the mayonnaise. Like the popover, it’s the story of a great transformation. Yolk, lemon juice, salt, and oil. mayo2 There simply isn’t ...

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Posted in egg, From Scratch, Recipes, sauce | Also tagged , , , , | 21 Comments

Poaching Eggs

By Emilia | Published: March 18, 2013

We have that special separation tool for you, the Badass Perforated Egg Spoon.

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Quiche Lorraine

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 7, 2013

Quiche is, as Thomas Keller called it, "the sexiest pie." Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

I've been in LA on an entertainment project and to see the opening of my friend and collaborator Richard LaGravenese's new movie Beautiful Creatures. I'd never been to an opening before. But quiche has been on my mind, so I've been using travel time to work on some variations of this infinitely variable fat custard tart. If I had time I'd head to Bouchon in Beverly Hills, which makes perfect quiche. Bouchon, and working on that book, is where I learned that, while America was taught to make quiche in premade pie shells, this deprives the quiche of its true greatness: depth. In order to achieve that voluptuous texture, it has be about two ...

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Posted in aromatics, baking, Eggs, Kitchen Tools, Recipes, ruhlman products | Also tagged , , , , , , , , | Comments closed

Sunday Breakfast—Bacon, Eggs, Grits

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: September 7, 2012

A Sunday breakfast. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Now that the kids are back in school and Donna and I are back from travel, life returns to its homey routine. Which happily includes an actual late Sunday morning breakfast. It's one of the best times to cook and can be one of the most satisfying meals of the week. First of all, I've got to say it loud: GRITS! Grits are fabulous and I can't tell you how many people taste them and say they can't believe people don't eat them more often. Honestly, you should make them a staple (the butter-poached shrimp and grits in Ruhlman's Twenty is one of my favorite dishes, period). Just be sure to use real grits (instant grits are not grits). I used Bob's ...

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Posted in american regional cuisine, Books, Breakfast, Eggs | Also tagged , , , , , , , | Comments closed

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