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Christmas Dinner
and the Magic of Yorkshire Pudding
No one is happier than I finally to have some routine again, tree taken down, kids in school, and a plunge back into work with all kinds of exciting projects on the horizon.
But I can't stop thinking about these Yorkshire puddings. I'm always surprised by popovers, how simple they are, and how dramatic they can be. The first time I made Yorkshire pudding for Christmas dinner, it was at Dad's house and I simply poured the batter into the baking dish the roast beast had cooked in. I marveled at its lava-lamp convolutions as it cooked.
I love the simplicity of the basic popover, which is all this is (here with some savory mustard). This post and photo long ago ...
Posted in baking, Beef, Breakfast, Recipes Also tagged popovers, Ruhlman's Twenty, Yorkshire Pudding Comments closed
Christmastime Wishes: One Word
It's arguable that cooking made us human. Cooked food gave us a huge amount of calories, which made us healthy and we spread our genes and our brains grew and grew. But most important, cooking our own food forced us to work together, to cooperate. Because we learned to cooperate, we grew in groups, and these groups spread across the world and thrived, while others species (Neanderthals, for example) did not.
This is important enough to reiterate: in order to make use of the extraordinary benefits that cooked food gave us, the stuff that made us human, we had to work together. Food taught us how to cooperate.
But cooperate is a boring word, a weak word with oblique connotations of subservience, compromise, giving in—everything ...
Cookies for the Holidays!
I'm a cook, not a baker. There are few professional chefs who are both. Cory Barrett, formerly of Cleveland's Lola, was its pastry chef and then its chef de cuisine, very rare. Michel Richard is an anomaly in being both a world-class pastry chef and a dazzlingly ingenious savory cook, as his book Happy in the Kitchen shows (I highly recommend this book, by the way, and his restaurants). That savory cooks and pastry cooks are different creatures is also why writing the new best-selling Thomas Keller book, the Bouchon Bakery Cookbook—stunning in its recipes, photography, and design—was both so hard and so exciting for me, as I tried to understand the whys behind the craft of baking and pastries and write about them through executive ...
Posted in baking, Desserts, Guest Post, Holiday, Recipes Also tagged bouchon bakery cookbook, cookies, emilia juocys, langues de chat, mayan cookies, recipe Comments closed
Christmas Wishes
It's been a long day of wrapping and cooking in preparation for Christmas, amazingly stress free because of my amazing wife and colleague Donna. Her photo above is something of a self-portrait of us on the Christmas tree. Mom and James made cookies and I made our annual Addison's Brioche. Mom wants to use it to make sticky buns so we'll fill some muffin pans with brown sugar, butter and pecans, top each with the brioche and refrigerate till tomorrow morning. It's become a tradition. As has the reading of Twas the Night Before Christmas before bed. Traditions are powerful indeed.
The day has also been occasion to think about how lucky I am, for Donna, for Donna's work, for the health of my children, on this bountiful holiday. I miss my dad who was the very embodiment of The ...
Posted in Food Writing, Holiday, Memories Also tagged best wishes to all, holiday, memories, wishes Comments closed


















