Tag Archives: Chef Pardus

Dinner with Pardus

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: August 1, 2012

 

Chef Pardus and Michael sharing a tasting moment. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

My Dinner with Pardus

Originally posted July 31, 2008 Do you have any veal hearts?” Pardus asked. The vendor, with happiness and surprise, said, “I do!” He pulled it out of the cooler and said, “How about five bucks?” “Sold!” What happens when a chef visits for the weekend? My old instructor and now close friend Mike Pardus (pronounced PAR-dus—some people think because he’s a chef, it’s pronounced par-DOO) visited recently. The main fact about Michael is that he is a cook in every fiber of his body, meaning, in part, that when he’s away from his work as a chef instructor at the CIA, when he can do anything he wants because he’s on holiday, he chooses to cook all day. Which ...

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Posted in Appetizers, Beef, Books, chefs, Elements of Cooking, Memories | Also tagged , , , , , , | Comments closed

How To Prepare and Cook Beef Heart

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: August 18, 2011

Beef Heart with Herbed Vinaigrette and Arugula/photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Heart is an excellent muscle to eat: it's lean and flavorful (meaty but not organy—it's a hard working muscle, not squishy spleen), it's got a good bite, and it's inexpensive (I bought the three-pound grass-fed beef heart for six bucks last Saturday). And one more thing: it puts to use a cut that is often thrown away; it's important that we do our best to make use of all parts of the animals we kill for our food. I use a beef heart here, but you can use a veal heart which is a little more tender and mild.  I first had beef heart a couple summers ago when Pardus visited. He stuck it on skewers, a good strategy because ...

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Posted in Beef, Charcuterie, outdoor cooking, Recipes, Technique, Video | Also tagged , , , , , | Comments closed

The Birth of a Torchon

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 25, 2011

foie gras torchon

Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

One of my favorite things on earth to eat is a well made foie gras torchon. It's a special preparation of foie gras, fat duck liver, that I first experienced at The French Laundry (the recipe is in The French Laundry Cookbook if you have it).  It's a three day procedure and brings out the very best in the foie gras when done right.  The duck liver is deveined, typically soaked in milk and salt to remove residual blood, then seasoned and, traditionally, rolled up in a kitchen towel (a torchon, in French), poached, rerolled to compact it and chilled. It's then eaten cold, a big fat slice of it, with some form of bread and a sweet-sour accompaniment.  The biggest producer of foie gras in ...

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Posted in Charcutepalooza, Charcuterie, Guest Post, Seasonings and Spices | Also tagged , , , , , , , | Comments closed

New York City Restaurants: The Craft of Service

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: December 8, 2010

Photo by Donna

Donna talked me into a little pre-holiday NYC splurge with Claudia and Michael (Chef Pardus if you've read Making of a Chef) this past weekend and we truly indulged, did nothing but eat and drink and nap for 24 hours, and oh man did I learn something from three of the city's best restaurateurs. Our room was not ready when we got in, so Donna and I strolled over to Beacon where wood roasted oysters were the perfect accompaniment to a Hendricks martini.  The city air was cold and fresh, and the holiday lights made the dark afternoon feel festive and hopeful. Our first dinner was at Minetta Tavern, a place I've wanted to go to for months, being a huge huge fan of Keith McNally restaurants, Balthazar ...

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Posted in Food Adventure, Restaurants, Salumi | Also tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments closed

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