Tag Archives: Ad Hoc at Home

Graduation Fried Chicken

Deep frying. Look at that golden brown color! Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Perfectly cooked fried chicken! Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

For her high school graduation lunch last week, my daughter asked for my fried chicken. Normally, I break down a chicken into 9 pieces and cook it and serve it. But we’d invited friends, bringing our total number to 20. Fried chicken for 20 is different from fried chicken for four. I had no intention of spending all that time frying while hosting the lunch. But it wasn't until we were seated and one of the guests, while biting into a juicy drumstick, asked, “You can do this ahead of time?” did I realize that I must, must post on this subject, to deepen our understanding and encourage more cooking of one of the greatest dishes in the American ...

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Posted in american regional cuisine, Chicken, Kitchen Tips | Also tagged , , , | 14 Comments

Holiday Gift Week: My books!

I can already feel Donna rolling her eyes. I'm like that, um, ham, who runs out onto a Broadway stage and flings out his arms ... and then silence. Well, it is my theater here, and I don't exactly sell tickets, and at least it's not a political ad! Brian Polcyn and I are very proud of our new book, Salumi: The Italian Craft of Dry Curing, about how to make your own pancetta, guanciale, coppa, and other dry-cured wonders in the grand and ancient tradition of Italy. There's a reason one of the oldest examples of early civilization still exists. Because everyone can do it, and because it's delicious. Granted, not everyone wants a piece of meat hanging from the chandelier for three weeks, but for those demented and wonderful souls who do, this book is for you. You ...

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Posted in Books, chefs, Holiday | Also tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments closed

Ghostwriter Dustup

Clockwise from lower left, Deborah Jones, David Hughes, Dave Cruz, Jeff Cerciello, moi, Amy Vogler, Thomas (yes, first name only now), Susie Heller/Photo "by" Deborah Jones

A lot of friends emailed me last month asking what I thought about the stink bomb Julia Moskin dropped on the cookbook world in her bitter account of chefs not writing their own books (or sometimes not even reading them). Then there was the dustup that followed—Paltrow histrionic with the Times, Regina Schrambling (indefatigable NYTimes gadfly) calling bullshit on it all, time.com weighing in decorously. So this is for my friends who asked. In Michael Symon’s book, Live to Cook, he includes a recipe of mine (naturally fermented pickles), and I wrote the headnote in his voice. How meta! The above photograph is by Deborah Jones, a ...

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Posted in Books, Writing | Also tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments closed
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