Turkey Stock For Gravy: Start Soon

Mise en place for turkey stock/gravy. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

In preparation for Thanksgiving, America's biggest home-cooking day, I'll be addressing a few of the most common issues and frequently asked questions about the basics: roasting turkey and making gravy. Friday, I'll be introducing an innovate and  in my opinion the best possible way to roast a whole turkey (it involves a dual method and resulted last year in Donna's saying, "This is the best roasted turkey we've ever had.") But first things first: make turkey stock now so that you have it on hand to make gravy. I don't know where we got the idea that a roasting turkey results enough juices to make gravy. It doesn't. And you certainly want to have way too much gravy on Thanksgiving so that you have leftovers. ...

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Posted in aromatics, Holiday, Recipes, sauce, stock, Technique, Tips | Tagged , , , , , | 55 Comments

Butter-Poached Shrimp and Grits

Butter-Poached shrimp and grits from Ruhlman's Twenty/photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Just the name is inspiring: butter-poached shrimp.  Butter-poached shrimp and grits. Mmmm. Butter-poached lobster, not uncommon in French haute cuisine, was popularized in America by Thomas Keller in The French Laundry Cookbook and at that restaurant. "Lobster loves gentle heat," he told me then. It's not much of a leap for the thrifty-minded cook to reason that shrimp, too, love gentle heat. That's why, in the butter chapter of my new book, I showed how to use butter as a cooking medium (one of the many amazing ways butter can be used as a tool). This dish is absolutely killer. The shrimp stay very tender, rich and tasty with the butter; the grits are then enriched with the shrimp butter. Leftover butter can be used ...

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Posted in Books, From Scratch, Recipes, Seafood | Tagged , , , , , , | 20 Comments

The Martha Stewart Show

Photos by Rob Tannenbaum/The Martha Stewart Show

Martha actually laughs! I was on The Martha Stewart Show, taped Monday in front of a crazily exuberant audience, on behalf of the new book, Twenty, and I saw it myself. Lord knows what we were laughing about. I haven't a clue. You go kind of senseless when you're not in front of Martha every day and there she is—felt exactly like jumping out of an airplane for the first time. But one of the things I've always admired about her show is there's none of that forced cheer and goofy laughter. So when she laughs it's real and affecting. I've done my share of TV but have never, ever been nervous. I was so nervous that morning. I brought three shirts and a valium. When ...

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Posted in appearance, Books, Seafood | Tagged , , , , | 57 Comments

Book Tour Blessings

Tea eggs with sichuan salt and scallions at The Lantern/all photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I hate book tours. I hate leaving my house. But years ago when I was interviewing David McCullough for my book Wooden Boats, he noted how he hears that from authors all the time and said in his typical exuberant way, and with that inimitable voice, “I love book tours!” It helps that he is universally adored, of course, and is a fine and generous man fawned over wherever he appears. But I thought of him on my return from Durham and Chapel Hill where Anton Zuiker—communications director for Duke Medical Center 9 to 5, and journalist, blogger, husband, dad, angel and friend at all other hours—masterminded a book tour stop for me, in honor of ...

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Posted in Books, Eggs, Food Adventure, Restaurants, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Brioche Revisited

 

brioche

Freshly sliced brioche. Photo by Donna

Michael has been traveling all around the United States promoting his new book Ruhlman's Twenty.  Yesterday he had a long day in New York City where he appeared on the Martha Stewart Show.  Michael sends his apologies, as he is nursing a wicked hangover.  He returns to Cleveland today and will be appearing at the Fabulous Food Show this weekend.  Please enjoy this favorite post of mine on how to Make Brioche.  This post reminds you to begin preparing for the holiday season, which is quickly approaching. Original Post Date: November 30, 2010 December is the month for making brioche at home. It's the great holiday bread.  Though calling it bread doesn't do it justice.  Good brioche is like a cross between bread and cake.  Hell, it's really ...

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Posted in Books, Bread, Bread App, Breakfast, From Scratch, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , | 7 Comments

Pappadams!

Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I made my staple Lemon-Cumin Dal the other day and while I served, Donna brought the pappadams over to the light for this photo. I always serve these Indian—what, crackers?—with dal. They add a delicate crisp crunch to the meal and an exotic (to me) flavor. If you've never served them, I urge you to try them. Not only delicious, but fun to cook! Made from lentil or chickpea flour, they're sold as flat smooth discs. Slip them into hot oil and they puff and fold and are finished in five seconds. While I'm hoping a prominent food blogger, who publishes one of the most lovely recipe blogs I know, will try the recipe for this mung-bean-based dal, featured in Twenty, it reminds me of two other writer cooks specializing in Indian ...

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Posted in Appetizers, Books, Ethnic Cuisine | Tagged , , , , | Comments closed

Twenty in the News

There has been a flurry of activity in regards to Michael's new book Ruhlman's Twenty it is featured in today's Chicago Tribune; "20 Steps to Better Cooking".  Joe Crea from Cleveland's The Plain Dealer writes about a few of the Twenty techniques, in "Michael Ruhlman's 'Twenty' Recipes.  Russ Parson's of the LA Times has also reviewed Twenty.     Upcoming Ruhlman Events Tonight at 6:00pm see Michael at Lantern in Chapel Hill, North Carolina. Thursday Michael is back in Ohio for the Cleveland Culinary Challenge that is being held at the Tri-C Hospitality Management Center. On November 11 & 12 see Michael at the Fabulous Food Show in Cleveland. To learn more about events follow Michael on Facebook and Twitter.

 

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Lunch with Pollan, Part Two:
Hopeful Words

Michael Pollan at The Greenhouse Tavern last week/photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Dan Moulthrop, a former journalism student of Michael Pollan, interviewed the writer before a sold-out crowd at the Ohio Theater last week. I asked Dan, Curator of Conversation at The Civic Commons, a Knight Foundation project to use new media and emerging technologies to strengthen civic engagement, for his thoughts on Pollan's visit. —M.R. by Daniel Moulthrop I woke up this morning from a dream in which I'd taken Michael Pollan to the West Side Market. It's just an echo of his Monday visit, and a remnant of a strong desire the Cleveland ambassador in me had to show him both that place and the Ohio City Farm. Here's my big takeaway from Monday night: The food system I grew up with is not ...

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Lunch with Michael Pollan:
Two Words of Warning

On Monday, Writer’s Center Stage and Cuyahoga Public Library brought Michael Pollan to Cleveland to speak. He happened to be free for lunch and seemed delighted to be taken to The Greenhouse Tavern (above, photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman), for a taste of fall. Pollan, who lives, teaches and writes in Berkeley, CA, is tall and lanky, bobs his head a lot, smiles easily, and is engaging in conversation. He was for years a magazine editor in New York, and left full-time employment with no small amount of anxiety to complete his first book. His second book had mediocre sales, he noted (I read it long ago, excellent book). The Botony of Desire faired better, but it was The Omnivore's Dilemma that transformed him from non-fiction author and ...

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Posted in chefs, Farming, Food Politics, Writing | Tagged , , , , | Comments closed

Green!

I ran this photo by Donna a while ago, but came across it this weekend and love it so much I decided to put it back up. Just because. Want to see something even more beautiful? Watch this video, from Grant Achatz and the team at Alinea and Next, the restaurant that is now devoted to childhood. Anyone else tear up? It was the beaters that got me. (My colleague Emilia Juocys found it and put it in the Sidenotes here but it deserves to be featured.)

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