For Friday’s weekly grill post I want to feature green beans.  These are awesome on the grill.  Strictly speaking, you don’t need a grilling basket, but they do make the work much easier.  (I offer these at OpenSky for those who follow.)  Baskets are fairly common these days and they do make all kinds of grilling of stuff that might fall through.  If you don’t have a basket, this same technique and recipe will work with asparagus as well. I like to toss the green veg in olive oil to which I’ve added smashed or minced garlic, and put them over high direct heat, tossing or turning them every few minutes or so.  They cook in about 7-10 minutes. If you like heat, add some dried red chilli flakes. If you like seasoning that goes Read On »

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I’ve been in Napa learning about bread at Bouchon Bakery and hope to post about later this week—bread is endlessly fascinating, infinitely complex, and to dive deeper into the craft with a baker, Matthew McDonald, who has been working with yeasted doughs pretty much his whole life, is one of the happier circumstances of a freelance life—but I hate to leave home.  In anticipation of being away, I made lunch for Donna so we could have a few focused moments together before I left.  With morels on my mind and a quick preparation required, I put together a simple speedy lunch to feature the mushroom: scrambled eggs with chives, morels with a simple cream sauce (recipe in this post) and an arugula salad dressed with lemon and extra virgin olive oil. I didn’t ask Donna Read On »

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In the spring of 1996, a CIA instructor took us on a hunt for morel mushrooms. Why do you love these mushrooms, I asked him. “They’re just too cool,” he said  And they are.  Morels are what mushrooms are all about. They’ve got that gnomish head, brain-like, peculiar, twisted. They’re wild, what forager Connie Green calls a gift-of-God mushroom, unpredictable. And kind of scary looking, dangerous (hopeful phallus, menacingly wrinkled cap).  And they taste so deeply mushroomy, of the earth they rise out of.  We spent all day in the Hudson Valley, and I didn’t find one. My friend Adam did, found two, gave them to me with a scowl, angry he didn’t find more. I cut them open; tiny bugs scurried everywhere inside. When my friend JD Sullivan said “Want to go look for Read On »

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