Category Archives: Technique

Classic Hollandaise

 

Making a traditional Hollandaise, yolks in a vinegar reduction (all photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman).

On Saturday night, sitting in the Ohio State Theater waiting for Jim Gaffigan to go on, I got a tweet from Elise alerting me that a website had stolen my text and Donna's photos from the following post. Elise, creator of the site Simply Recipes and vigilant crusader for blogger rights and general Internet justice, also sent me a link to the Google page to report copyright infringement. I wrote to Google, and the folks there had the theft taken down within days. So here's a prime example of the very hard work Elise does, not just her consistently excellent publishing at Simply Recipes, but also her work on behalf of other bloggers. And also ...

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Also posted in aromatics, Breakfast, Food Writing, From Scratch, Kitchen Tips, Ratios, Recipes, sauce | Tagged , , , , , | 6 Comments

Homemade Mayonnaise

 

Homemade mayonnaise is faster to make then you think. Photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

I have so much crap on my desk! Being gone for three weeks it piles up. Books I have to at least familiarize myself with, dried soy beans and a tofu press, the manuscript I've got to fix, knives and rolling pins and some weird Fagor three-way cooker to figure out, emails to respond to, the ineluctable ... not modality of being ... but the ineluctable compulsion to check twitter feed. OY! But I never get tired of mayonnaise you make yourself.  I don't care if it's with a hand blender or whisk. Helmann's is fine—I use that too, but it's not anywhere near homemade mayo. Two totally different products, and that's and why I love it.  Its goodness is something you can't buy. You ...

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Also posted in Books, Eggs, Elements of Cooking, Recipes | Tagged , , , | 93 Comments

Cultured Butter

 

Cultured Butter, photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Back at my desk after three weeks on the road (daughter college trip/week in West Palm to visit Mom with Donna and the kids/NYC biz). NYC biz fun!!! Stayed with dear friend Annie LaG, with whom I'm working on a TV project (don't hold your breath), following fab lunch at the always excellent Bar Boulud (thanks chefs Damian and Daniel! Your pâtés rock!); my book Twenty won an IACP award (yay!); had dinner with the mercurial Amanda Hesser after getting lost in Williamsburg thanks to dead iPhone 3G (ate at Isa, where two tables down was the excellent Eric Asimov, who was so kind to me at the NYTimes when he was a rising copy editor and I was a lowly copy boy in ...

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Also posted in From Scratch | Tagged , , | 63 Comments

Twenty: It’s Back!

FINALLY!!! Ruhlman’s Twenty is back in full stock. The first 25,000 sold out within a few months of publication, so fast that Chronicle Books couldn’t push the reprint button fast enough. This delay, followed by a printing error, has kept the book unavailable for four months now! Killing me! But now it’s back in full force with one difference. People have begun to use it, and tweet successes, and facebook it. From Martha (on whom I developed immediate crush) to the Chicago Tribune to the LATimes, the reviews have been resounding. Here are some from amazon: The best review, was the very first, a video review by a woman named Becky, whom I don't know but would very much like to meet! Others have written: I am a big fan of his books and his blog. Time and again, I have ...

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Also posted in Books, Food Writing, ruhlman products, Video | Tagged , , , | 42 Comments

The Music/Food Connection

 

An egg in a recipe is like a note in a symphony. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Last night, on the Broad Stage with the Los Angeles Chamber Orchestra, I spoke about connections of music and food, in between selections from Puccini, Rossini, de Falla and Schoenfield. When Rachel Fine, executive director of the Los Angeles Chamber Orchestra, first wrote to request that I speak, I honestly almost flat turned her down. I’m no music expert, and wasn't sure what point it would serve. But she pressed, I became intrigued enough to give it some thought and was surprised to discover how many natural similarities there were and are, and perhaps most surprisingly of all to realize a couple of important musical metaphors had worked their way into my own writing without my being conscious of it. ...

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Also posted in Food Writing, Writing | Tagged , , | 59 Comments
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