Category Archives: stock

Turkey Stock For Gravy: Start Soon

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: November 15, 2011

Mise en place for turkey stock/gravy. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

In preparation for Thanksgiving, America's biggest home-cooking day, I'll be addressing a few of the most common issues and frequently asked questions about the basics: roasting turkey and making gravy. Friday, I'll be introducing an innovate and  in my opinion the best possible way to roast a whole turkey (it involves a dual method and resulted last year in Donna's saying, "This is the best roasted turkey we've ever had.") But first things first: make turkey stock now so that you have it on hand to make gravy. I don't know where we got the idea that a roasting turkey results enough juices to make gravy. It doesn't. And you certainly want to have way too much gravy on Thanksgiving so that you have leftovers. ...

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Stock Clarifications

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: August 24, 2011

chicken stock recipe

All photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman, click them to go to her site.

Last April, I wrote a post about leaving stock out on the stove top claiming that it would be safe to eat provided that you brought it to a simmer before eating. Indeed I've been doing this for a decade with no ill effects. On twitter and on the post itself, I received voluminous responses. One response, from a large-animal veterinarian, noted that it was entirely possible for heat-stable toxins, not bacteria, to persist, making the stock unsafe. I revised the post with the vet's valid warnings with links to the CDC's warnings on the particular bacteria. But the response was so strong, I suggested in an email to NYTimes food section editor Pete ...

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Also posted in Food Safety, food science, Recipes, Technique, Uncategorized | Tagged , , | Comments closed

Veal Stock and Guinness Bread

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: May 19, 2011

Guiness Stout-Veal Stock Bread/Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

My second pick for innovative use of veal stock came in from Marc Barringer, Chef/Hopsitality Director, St. Michael's Episcopal Church, Grosse Pointe Woods and  Food Service Director, Lost Lake Scout Reservation, Freeman Twp., Michigan. He's also a freelance writer, innovative cook and classic jack-of-all-trades in the best cooks tradition (still a school crossing guard! God bless him!).  Veal stock is one of the great preparations of the kitchen that can elevate everyone's cooking, and someone on twitter asked me what you could do with it. It lead to a lot of great ideas, in addition to the traditional uses for making sauces and enriching braises. Read the story of how Marc came up with bread—it's classic innovation from the restaurant kitchen.  I love it.  And I love the bread.  ...

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Veal Stock Contest!

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 19, 2011

Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman (click to see more pix on her site)

Regular readers know I’m a veal stock evangelist. Veal stock is one of those magical ingredients that can transform a mediocre cook into an ohmyfuckinggodthisfoodisamazing cook. Really, it’s that powerful. My first piece for Gourmet magazine was about veal stock. My veal stock recipe is in the Gourmet cookbook. In Elements of Cooking, a 242-page book about food and cooking, there is but a single recipe: veal stock. I once asked Jacques Pepin about veal stock and he said he didn’t much make it. Ingredients weren’t at his store in Connecticut.  I found this amazing, until I realized something important!  It was Jacques Pepin!  He doesn’t NEED veal stock.  He could probably make Miracle Whip taste good. But for the rest of us?  ...

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Stock Convictions

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 4, 2011

chicken stock recipe

All photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman, click them to go to her site.

Last week I posted on Twitter that leaving chicken stock (recipe below) out on the stovetop all week was fine and I got all kinds of mystified tweets about how could this possibly be safe.

It is, and it’s a great way to have stock on hand all week for a quick sauce, a poaching liquid, an instant soup, add it to a stir-fry and thicken with cornstarch.  You don’t need to go through all the straining and storing and labeling of stock and cleaning a big heavy stock pot. I do like to strain it out of one pot into another to get the bones out of it, but even ...

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Also posted in Elements of Cooking, Recipes, Technique | Tagged , , , | Comments closed

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