Category Archives: sausage

Salumi, It’s Here!

  Amazon is always ahead, damn them! They'd been advertising an August 27 release date for my new book, Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing, but suddenly I'm getting twitpics from people who have ordered and already received their copy! The video isn't ready, but you folks clearly are, so here it is, Brian Polcyn's and my Salumi, the follow-up to our previous love song to animal fat and salt. The new book focuses on dry-curing meat, both whole muscles, such as coppa and pancetta, and ground meat, such as salami. Charcuterie encompassed a broad range of preserved foods, including pâtés and confits. With a couple of exceptions (mortadella, the sopressata of Tuscany, which is the Italian version of french fromage de tête), salumi refers to salted, dried meats that are, when done well, with well-fed, ...

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The “No Nitrites Added” Hoax

no-nitrite bacon

Trader Joe's "uncured" bacon/Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

During a recent phone call with the excellent Elise of simplyrecipes, Elise wished aloud that I would address the nitrite issue directly.  “Trader Joe’s carries it!  Go look.  Is there one near you?” Indeed there is, and indeed they sell at least two products pitching themselves as a “healthier” bacon because they don’t add sodium nitrite. This is as odious as those sugar laden granola bars trumpeting “No Fat!” on their label—food marketers preying on a confused consumer who has been taught to fear food because of harmful additives (such as the recent, apparently genuine, Red Dye 40 warnings). Full disclosure if you don’t already know: I am a vocal bacon advocate, and one of my books, Charcuterie, ...

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Also posted in Charcutepalooza, Charcuterie, Pork!, Rant, Seasonings and Spices | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments closed

The Breslin Pig Foot

donna turner ruhlman ace hotel breslin restaurant series ©photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman—see more at: Ruhlmanphotography.com

When Donna found herself in NYC at the Ace Hotel last fall, she spent a couple nights in the Breslin kitchen watching executive chef April Bloomfield, Breslin chef de cuisine Peter Cho, and crew rock (that's Peter and April top right). The trotter caught her eye.  It's the perfect example of why this post could be called Why April Is Not the Cruelest Month But Rather the Best Porker, or simply Why We Love April.  The British chef takes a great Italian classic, a zampone, as she notes, breads it, fries it in olive oil and butter, and serves it as their "Pig's Foot for 2."  It's the boned out trotter, stuffed ...

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Also posted in Charcutepalooza, Charcuterie, Donna Turner Ruhlman Photography, Main Courses, Pork!, Recipes, Restaurants, Technique | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Comments closed

Grilling Demo (and Digital Publishing):
Spatchcocked Chix, Asparagus, Sausage

Earlier in the season, I taped a grilling demo for a new Cleveland company called Sideways, specializing in digital publishing, including the eponymous magazine for the iPad (next issue is out Monday, youtube promo here). It accompanied my story on grilling. The idea that the iPad can include multiple pix (even a flip-pad presentation of cooking technique), video, text and recipes is exciting and Sideways was the first company I know of to create such a work.  I think this video is too long, more than 15 minutes, or it needs to be broken into shorter chapters, but it's not bad for a first try.  They recently posted it to youtube, so here it is. Grilling 101, human's original cooking method: Spatchcocked chicken, grilling asparagus, and grilling ...

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How To Make Sausage

Earlier this spring, my high school pal, JD, called and asked if I wanted to make sausage on Saturday. It's much easier with a few folks to spread out the work, but I wasn't prepared for something like 50 pounds of sausage. Nor did I expect JD to film the event.  But, ever the overachiever, he did. Our other pal, Mac, the bearded one, joined us. So please forgive the Saturday shadow and numerous chins and the unscripted nature of the video and my limited editing skills, but do follow the basic steps to awesome sausage.  There are five, follow them all, keep your meat really cold, and you'll have great links (or skip step 5 and make patties or use it loose).  It's summer grilling season and there's ...

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