Category Archives: sauce

Classic Hollandaise

 

Making a traditional Hollandaise, yolks in a vinegar reduction (all photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman).

On Saturday night, sitting in the Ohio State Theater waiting for Jim Gaffigan to go on, I got a tweet from Elise alerting me that a website had stolen my text and Donna's photos from the following post. Elise, creator of the site Simply Recipes and vigilant crusader for blogger rights and general Internet justice, also sent me a link to the Google page to report copyright infringement. I wrote to Google, and the folks there had the theft taken down within days. So here's a prime example of the very hard work Elise does, not just her consistently excellent publishing at Simply Recipes, but also her work on behalf of other bloggers. And also ...

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Also posted in aromatics, Breakfast, Food Writing, From Scratch, Kitchen Tips, Ratios, Recipes, Technique | Tagged , , , , , | Comments closed

Salted Caramel

Salt on Caramel = Heaven/Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Originally posted on June 29, 2011 Been so busy recently have scarcely had time to post.  Just got back from taking James to camp :(  My chief videographer and dessert innovator. I was in Boston talking salt on Simply Ming.  I was in NYC working on confections with Bouchon Bakery head chef Sebastien Rouxel and putting together a pitch for a chef drama with some friends.  I came home to find agreat new ice cream book from Ohio's own Jeni Britton Bauer!  Salt, sweets, ice cream, and an unused photo donna shot for the new book due out in fall: salted-caramel! Of course.  Caramel is one of those awesome no brainer dessert sauces that more people ought to do at home.  Takes 10 minutes tops, uses inexpensive ingredients, ...

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Also posted in Books, Desserts, Ratios, Recipes | Tagged , , | Comments closed

Eastern North Carolina BBQ

Pulled pork sandwich, from Ruhlman's Twenty. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

With these last few posts on cooking for groups, it occurred to me that I should post one of my go-to, fabulously easy, always-gets-raves main course that serves a lot of people.  East Carolina barbecue, called pulled pork here up north. When I arrived at Duke University in Durham, North Carolina, from Cleveland, Ohio, in the 1980s I knew the word barbecue to be a verb. You did it on a grill. As a noun, it meant a gathering to eat food cooked on a grill—it was something you had, something you invited neighbors to. But on the drive back from a place called Jugtown (to get there we’d gone through a town called Whynot, with a church named after the town; loved that), we stopped at what looked ...

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Also posted in american regional cuisine, Books, Main Courses, Recipes, Sandwiches | Tagged , , , | Comments closed

Turkey Stock For Gravy: Start Soon

Mise en place for turkey stock/gravy. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

In preparation for Thanksgiving, America's biggest home-cooking day, I'll be addressing a few of the most common issues and frequently asked questions about the basics: roasting turkey and making gravy. Friday, I'll be introducing an innovate and  in my opinion the best possible way to roast a whole turkey (it involves a dual method and resulted last year in Donna's saying, "This is the best roasted turkey we've ever had.") But first things first: make turkey stock now so that you have it on hand to make gravy. I don't know where we got the idea that a roasting turkey results enough juices to make gravy. It doesn't. And you certainly want to have way too much gravy on Thanksgiving so that you have leftovers. ...

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Also posted in aromatics, Holiday, Recipes, stock, Technique, Tips | Tagged , , , , , | Comments closed

Beer Vinegar/Food As Solace

Three years ago on this date, a Saturday, Donna, my mom, I, the kids, our dear friend Stu, and the dog spent the morning standing vigil as my father succumbed to the lung cancer. Mom had gone to the farmer's market and gotten corn and she and I stood at the kitchen island plowing through a dozen and a half ears, butter dripping off our chins. My dad, Rip, hadn't been conscious since very early in the morning, 3 am, Donna and I on the bedside, holding his hand. Realizing the end was truly near, he wanted our assurance that I had indeed returned his library books. I had.  "We love you, Dad, we're going to be fine, don't worry, everything's going to be OK." By eleven a.m., he breathed sporadically. I hoped he could hear ears of corn being ...

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Also posted in Memories, Recipes, Seasonings and Spices, Writing | Tagged , , , , | Comments closed
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