Category Archives: sauce

Chasing the Dream: Chef Patricia Tracey
(with Salsa Verde)

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 29, 2013

Baked eggs – ready to be topped with salsa verde

Baked eggs with salsa verde. Photo by Patricia Tracey.

People call me a chef (even says so here). I’m not a chef. Ted Allen is not a chef (as if his round wood spoons didn’t say as much). Rachael Ray is not a chef. None of us ever said we were. (I have on occasion, claimed to be, but that was just to piss off Michael Symon, who is a chef, or was—now he’s a TV cook, entertainer, and successful restaurateur. I cooked at Sans Souci, a Marriot-owned restaurant, ages ago, but I wouldn’t last an hour on the line today.) Terms matter. I say this because today’s guest poster, Patricia Tracey, is and remains solely a chef. Not a celeb chef like Symon or Bobby Flay (both of ...

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Also posted in chefs, Eggs, Food Adventure, Food Business, Guest Post, Recipes | Tagged baked eggs, following a dream, kick starter, Mediterranean Salsa Verde, Myriad Gastro Pub, restaurant, san francisco, starting a business, Trish Tracey | 13 Comments

Final Word on Battle of the Spoons
(with Crème Anglaise)

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 18, 2013

Creme angliase. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

A perfect crème anglaise. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

The television personality and cookbook author Ted Allen stirred up a shit storm this week by calling me out on my hatred of the round wooden spoon, which he apparently has the hots for. He happened to mention our exchange at a City Harvest event to Eric Ripert, executive chef of Le Bernardin, one of the finest restaurants in the country, with whom I’ve worked closely, who added a little more caca to the pot by tweeting "Crème anglaise? Since the days of Escoffier, stir with a wood spoon, Ruhlman." He then phoned me to further faire caca into my cell phone until he conceded that it was the wood, not a round wood spoon, then was evasive, said a client ...

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Also posted in Books, Desserts, egg, Recipes | Tagged creme anglaise, dessert, Eggs, Epicurious, recipe, sauce, Ted Allen, wooden paddles | 64 Comments

Making Mayonnaise

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: March 18, 2013

Homemade mayonnaise is faster to make then you think. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

You can't buy this kind of mayonnaise. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Yet again finishing up a manuscript with mayonnaise on my mind, and I always think of Donna's lovely images, captured when spring light was coming through our kitchen window. I could look at these forever (and now, as I couldn't five years ago, I can post them to Twitter). Thanks, Donna! And remember, the emulsion is less about the yolk than about the liquid. Originally posted on May 21, 2008 Finishing up the revisions of a manuscript and going over some fat-based sauces has returned me to the mayonnaise. Like the popover, it’s the story of a great transformation. Yolk, lemon juice, salt, and oil.

There simply isn’t ...

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Also posted in egg, From Scratch, Recipes | Tagged Eggs, lemon, mayo, mayonnaise, oil, recipe | 21 Comments

Perfect Nicoise

By Emilia | Published: August 13, 2012

How to execute the perfect Nicoise salad from fish to vegetable to dressing, via Guardian UK.

Also posted in aromatics, Article, Eggs, Food Writing, From Scratch, Recipes, Salads, Seafood | Tagged french, Guardian UK, Nicoise, recipe, salad | Comments closed

Dangerous Food: Stinging Nettle Pesto

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: June 25, 2012

Stinging Nettles. Photos by Jenny Coyle

There's a visceral pleasure to eating dangerous or forbidden food. Wild fugu, for instance. Wild mushrooms. Raw meat. Even oysters, still virtually alive. Why on earth would anyone try to eat something that stings? And believe me, these are prickly motherfuckers. Why? Because it's fun. But there's more to them than that. And the devoted baker and wonderful soul who runs Two Sisters Bakery in Homer, Alaska, describes why this "pesky, painful weed" is great to eat. Thanks for this valuable guest post, Carri! — Michael by Carri Thurman Nettles, the wild edible and pesky, painful weed that has been a staple of traditionalists and confounding gardeners since the beginning of time, are finally getting their spot on the culinary stage. Nettles are replacing kale as the superfood of the moment, boasting ...

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Also posted in aromatics, blog, Food Adventure, Guest Post, Pasta, Recipes | Tagged carri thurman, foraging, pasta, pesto, sauce, stinging nettles, two sisters bakery | Comments closed

Category Archives: sauce

Chasing the Dream: Chef Patricia Tracey
(with Salsa Verde)

Final Word on Battle of the Spoons
(with Crème Anglaise)

Making Mayonnaise

Perfect Nicoise

Dangerous Food: Stinging Nettle Pesto

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