Category Archives: outdoor cooking

How To Cook For Sixteen (and not stress)

Lobster tails were cooked at 140˚F/60˚C for one hour; claws were boiled on stove top; bodies saved for stock that would become a lobster bisque two days later

The mission was this. Make nine great dinners for a big group, but create menues simple enough so that I could get a morning's worth of work in (ie justify 10 days in Key West) and not freak out at 4 pm. One of the first issues is what to cook food in, the vessels. So a valuable tool was the above Lexan tub which I borrowed from my friendly neighborhood restaurant, Fire (thanks Doug!); the immersion circulator was a huge help (I need to do a post on what lessons from this device that apply to home kitchens without one). I also had two huge pots for ...

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Christmas Dinner: The Grill/Roast Technique

Roast beef mise en place. Photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

On Thanksgiving, I offered a roast/braise combination cooking technique for turkey. Interesting that I use a dual cooking technique for our traditional holiday Christmas meal as well. The Grill/Roast method, which I write about in Ruhlman's Twenty. I don’t think there’s a better way to cook a rack of beef (or a whole beef tenderloin) than this combination grill-roast method. It gives the meat great grilled flavor and allows you perfect control of temperatures and timing. I use the method in during holidays, to serve beef tenderloin sandwiches on a buffet or a rack of beef for a large group of people because I can grill the beef a day ahead if I want and then just finish it in the oven. Flavor the meat on ...

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Also posted in appearance, aromatics, baking, Beef, Butchery, grilling, Holiday, Recipes, Technique | Tagged , , , , | 21 Comments

How To Make Beef Brisket Pastrami At Home

Slicing Hot Pastrami/photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I've written about pastrami short ribs, and love them because they've got the perfect meat-to-fat ratio. But ever since the arrival of a Big Green Egg (planning a review soon), I've wanted to do a proper pastrami, which is essentially a corned beef brisket, coated with pepper and coriander and smoked (the result above was perfect—look at that awesome fat). While I've published the corned beef recipe from my book Charcuterie, I haven't really talked about smoking strategies at home. I recommend two different methods: stove top and in a kettle grill. Stove-top smoking is easy with an inexpensive ($43) Cameron smoker. I bought one a few years ago and it works great for bacon and would work great for this brisket. Briskets require long low ...

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Also posted in Beef, Brines, Butchery, Charcutepalooza, Charcuterie, grilling, Main Courses, Recipes, Technique | Tagged , , | Comments closed

Friday Grilling: Radicchio

Grilled Radiccio/photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Just about anything can be grilled that won't slip through the grate or grilling basket. You can't grill batter, you can't grill soup (though you could keep it hot on a grill). I don't know that I'd grill a tough vegetable, like cabbage or kale, but you could try. One of my favorite vegetables to grill is radicchio.  Its natural bitter notes take on the smokey charred flavors of hot open flames deliciously. And when paired with the acidic sweetness of balasamic vinegar, it's a great side dish. I'd like to underscore the importance of balsamic vinegar here. Its intense sweet acidity offsets the natural (pleasing) bitterness all foods grilled over high heat pick up. I love a product called Crema di Balsamico, which is basically pre-reduced balsamic. Just a few ...

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Also posted in Appetizers, grilling, Recipes, sidedishes, Vegetables | Tagged , , | Comments closed

How To Prepare and Cook Beef Heart

Beef Heart with Herbed Vinaigrette and Arugula/photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Heart is an excellent muscle to eat: it's lean and flavorful (meaty but not organy—it's a hard working muscle, not squishy spleen), it's got a good bite, and it's inexpensive (I bought the three-pound grass-fed beef heart for six bucks last Saturday). And one more thing: it puts to use a cut that is often thrown away; it's important that we do our best to make use of all parts of the animals we kill for our food. I use a beef heart here, but you can use a veal heart which is a little more tender and mild.  I first had beef heart a couple summers ago when Pardus visited. He stuck it on skewers, a good strategy because ...

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Also posted in Beef, Charcuterie, Recipes, Technique, Video | Tagged , , , , , , | Comments closed

Friday Grilling: Easy Bearnaise Sauce

Photo by Donna/Video by James

One of the conundrum of grilling meat is that the process of cooking doesn’t start a sauce for you, as a roast chicken does, as pan roasting a pork loin does, as all braises do. What then to sauce the meat with?  An emulsified butter sauce is the perfect answer.  And there is no better emulsified butter sauce than the Béarnaise.  This French classic was a childhood staple, a symbol for me of plenty, and also of the security my mom and dad gave me.  I wrote about it for Parade Magazine many years ago. My mom made it the old fashioned way: a reduction of shallot, tarragon, tarragon vinegar, and egg yolks in a double boiler.  She used the recipe from James Beard’s Menus For Entertaining.  (It's also in ...

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Also posted in aromatics, grilling, Recipes, sauce | Tagged , , , , | Comments closed

How To Roast a Suckling Pig

The start of the pig roast. Photo by Joshua Kulp

Chefs Christine Cikowski and Joshua Kulp, among the growing legions who are making our food better and helping us to appreciate it more, call their moveable feast Sunday Dinner Club because it evoked a time when their families shared a long meal together.  Sharing meals with the people you love is far more important than I'd ever realized, a fact that deepens the more I cook, read, and listen to other cooks, both home cooks and professionals.  I love that spirit. Sunday Dinner Club is an unusual Chicago-based business created in 2004.  What the chefs do is host dinner parties in their home and invite people on their mailing list to attend. The mailing list has been cultivated over ...

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Also posted in aromatics, Charcutepalooza, Charcuterie, grilling, Guest Post, Pork!, Recipes, Salumi, Technique, Tips | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Comments closed

How To Grill Corn

photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Corn is in and with the hot weather, there's no better way to cook corn than to grill it. People have asked me what's the best way to do it? There are two basic ways, depending on what you're after. Corn today is so sweet and tender, it only needs to be heated through, so your decision is really one about types of heat to use, high direct heat, which will brown the corn giving it a grilled flavor, or low temperature, steamed within its wet husk. I like both and the above corn which we ate after a day at the beach (sigh), used a little of both. I love the appearance because it tells you how it was cooked.  If I want a really smoke roasted caramelized flavor, I'd shuck the ...

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Also posted in Recipes, Tips, Vegetables | Tagged , , , , | Comments closed

Friday Grilling: BBQ Short Ribs

Full meal on the grill/all photos by donna turner ruhlman

A few weeks ago, I made a full meal on the grill, grilled green beans, grilled vidalia onion, and some awesome grilled short ribs.  The following are three recipes, techniques really, for making barbecued beef short ribs, cooking them start to finish on the grill, pre-cooking them and finishing them on the grill, and cooking them sous vide and finishing them on the grill.  (If you don't have a wood or charcoal grill, I really don't recommend doing short ribs this way.) Use whatever your favorite barbecue sauce is, store bought or homemade. (I need to do a homemade barbecue sauce post! Anyone wants to make suggestions, feel free in comments.) I recommend the first method because it results in a deeply smokey flavor, ...

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Also posted in Beef, Butchery, grilling, Main Courses, Recipes, Technique, Video | Tagged , , , , | Comments closed
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