Happy Father’s Day to all you guys out there who have brought little people into the world! I hope you’re duly honored. Most of you reading this do so because you cook—God bless you for that! I love guys who cook for their family. There’s something really powerful about them. Maybe because my dad, above, circa 1968, cooked food over fire all year long for us. Happily, Donna let’s me cook anything I want on Father’s Day, so I’ll relaxing by the grill tending a spatchcocked turkey (thanks for the idea, Cheryl). This is not steak or a burger. This is 12-pound bird—currently soaking in a sage brine—and so will require a good couple hours, at least, of hanging out around the fire, tending the fire, mopping the bird with butter seasoned with mustard and Read On »

Share

Daylight Saving Time remained in effect on Halloween, so a sky of scattered clouds was unusually bright.  We’d spent the afternoon at Thomas and Heather’s across the street, eating pizza straight from the wood oven in their backyard, surrounded by our neighbors and their kids.  All the women were cold and stayed close to the fire. Dogs fed at dropped crusts. Football on the front lawn, basketball at the back of the drive. When it was time for costumes the parents with little ones went off to get ready.  At six, I poured a beer into a red cup, pulled a cigar from the downstairs freezer, one of two I’ll smoke all year. I put the dog on the leash and set out behind four 11- and 12-year-olds.  I used to have to go, to Read On »

Share

I’ll never forget the way the words rang in my head, what, four or five years ago, Judy Rodgers, chef of Zuni Cafe in SF: why is this the beginning of the eating season, she asked, why isn’t this a holiday about cherishing our food, about saving it, about putting it up before winter so we don’t starve, about sharing it?  Thanksgiving should be about being with people we care about, about paying attention to what we have so that we don’t waste it, so that we make more of it, so that everyone has it. So as I spend a happy day in the kitchen, I’ll be thinking about the time I live in, a time of unprecedented thoughtfulness about food and where our food comes from.  It’s a lucky time to be a Read On »

Share