I’ll never forget the way the words rang in my head, what, four or five years ago, Judy Rodgers, chef of Zuni Cafe in SF: why is this the beginning of the eating season, she asked, why isn’t this a holiday about cherishing our food, about saving it, about putting it up before winter so we don’t starve, about sharing it?  Thanksgiving should be about being with people we care about, about paying attention to what we have so that we don’t waste it, so that we make more of it, so that everyone has it. So as I spend a happy day in the kitchen, I’ll be thinking about the time I live in, a time of unprecedented thoughtfulness about food and where our food comes from.  It’s a lucky time to be a Read On »

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Photos by Donna I published almost two years ago, at the end of summer—a chance email today thanking me for the technique.  So I thought let’s put it up again at the start of grilling season. I’m not always real quick on the uptake, but I eventually get around to the right way, and the right way for perfect (and safe) is to grind your own meat and make sure to include the right amount of fat (I don’t believe that the cut is that critical). Yes, I still buy ground beef occasionally but when I want to make a really good burger, I always grind the meat myself.  Why go to the trouble?  For a half a dozen reasons, all of them important. First and foremost: taste and texture.  When you grind your own, Read On »

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