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Category Archives: Kitchen Tips
The Egg and the Pressure Cooker
This guest post is thanks to twitter, when someone asked me about pressure cooking eggs. I had never done them, but Laura Pazzaglia had. Laura is a pressure-cooker maniac living in Italy and blogging at hippressurecooking.com. My friend Annie LaG took her up on how to cook easy-peel hard-cooked eggs and pronounced them amazing. I have long been a fan of the egg and recently a fan of the pressure cooker (here's the one I use, via Opensky.com). I love it especially when I want to have a quick stew ready for a weeknight dinner. A 2 to 4 hour stew can be completed start to finish in under and hour. But the egg and the pressure cooker came together on twitter. I invited Laura ...
Also posted in Appetizers, Eggs, Guest Post, Kitchen Technology, pressure cooker, Recipes Tagged boiled, cocotte, Eggs, hip pressure cooking, Laura Pazzaglia, pressure cooker, recipe 36 Comments
Ruhlman’s Twenty Giveaway!
What’s Your Best Staple Meal?
[Update 1/16: Winners have been chosen; their dishes are at the bottom of this post.]
Two and a half years ago, I wrote a post on staple meals because I’m fascinated by what people eat at home when they don’t want to think about what to make, what their go-to, middle-of-the-week meal is, because they are invariably quick, efficient, economical, and well, good enough to eat once a week forever. (I think they also tell us a lot about who we are).
The woman who has been cutting my hair for 12 years, three kids 16 and younger, husband not always at home, an “I don’t have a lot of time” mom. She makes chicken legs on a small rotisserie, and will do ...
Culinary Terminology
Also posted in Article, Food Culture, terminology Tagged culinary terms, foodie, the huffington post, vocabulary Leave a comment
Thanksgiving Turkey: Roast/Braise Method
The two great turkey conundrums: 1) how to have juicy breast meat and tender dark meat and 2) how to serve it all hot to a lot of people. Answer: the roast/braise method. Last year, chatting with my neighbor, the excellent chef Doug Katz (Fire Food and Drink), described how he cooks the turkey in stock up to the drumstick so that the legs braise while the breast and skin cook in dry heat. Last year I tried it and it works brilliantly. Thank you, Doug. Doug posted his version on the restaurant's blog. I've simplified and added a couple steps to make it easier for perfect doneness. (Step-by-step pix below.) The basic idea is this: cook the turkey half submerged in flavorful liquid and lots ...
French Onion Soup
Funny. The recipes people are pulled toward, desire, crave, are the most basic. Like Onion soup. Part of why I love people’s hunger for basic food is because there’s so much to learn from the simplest dishes. This recipe is from the new book, Ruhlman’s Twenty. The new book attempts to distill cooking down to 20 fundamental techniques. Two of the techniques are not verbs but rather nouns: water and onion—two of the most powerful ingredients in your kitchen, rarely given the reverence they deserve.
The soup deserves this high praise not only because it’s delicious and satisfying, but because it was borne out of economy. This is a peasant soup, made from onions, a scrap ...
Also posted in aromatics, Books, Recipes, Soups Tagged french onion soup, onions, twenty techniques, water base Comments closed
World Class Expertise
Also posted in Article, chefs Tagged kitchen hints from chefs, LA Times, Master Class, thomas keller Comments closed
Veal Stock Contest Winners
First, I love love love all these suggestions from the Veal Stock Contest post. There were great drinks, including jello shots. I love the Bloody Mary with diced demi cubes (see below). The above is the cocktail is a meal; veal stock gives it body and umami and nutrition: 1 ounce tomato juice 1 ounce veal stock, 2 ounces of gin (or OYO vodka), 1/2 teaspoon horseradish, shot of Worchestershire Sauce, lemon juice garnished with scallion, and garnished with the overall winner: Veal Salt!
Veal Salt is my personal pick of favorite veal stock innovations, offered by Josh Kantor, a 21-year-old senior economics at Occidental College in Los Angeles and part-time garde manger at ...
Also posted in aromatics, Giveaway, Recipes Tagged bloody mary bubble tea, Molasses Whiskey Bull Smash, potato vinaigrette, recipe, sformato, utilization, veal jam, veal rillettes, veal salt, veal stock, veal stock contest, Veal stock ice cream croquettes, winners Comments closed
How To Cook Dried Beans
Dried beans and salt. Dried beans and soaking. Ask some chefs and they'll tell you add salt in the beginning and the beans will never get soft. Some chefs have suggested that salt slows the rehydration of beans. Others say, the slower the rehydration, the better the finished bean (fewer broken ones), so it's important to soak them overnight. Others say it doesn’t really matter, or it depends. One thing that is demonstrably true is that you don't have to soak your beans overnight; if you want beans for dinner, put them in water and cook them till they're tender or at least edible, no soaking, no blanching, just put them in a pot and cook ...
Also posted in Elements of Cooking, Recipes, Technique, Tips, Vegetables Tagged beans, christmas lima beans, heirloom beans, how to pick a peach, how to read a french fry, ranch gordo, ruhlman's beans and bacon recipe, Russ Parsons, Steve Sando, to soak or not to soak beans, use distilled water to cook beans Comments closed
How To Brine Chicken (Quick Brine Recipe)
How to brine chicken, quick chicken brine recipe—why do we need quick? Because usually when I realize I need to brine something it's too late to make and cool the brine, and then go through the hours of brining. I always brine chickens that I intend to fry. Always. Well, almost always, sometimes, the urge comes too fast and powerfully even to do this, but normally I have at least four hours before I need to get the chicken floured and plunked into the fat. Here's what I do when I need to brine fast .
As I write in Ratio: The Simple Codes etc., my ideal brine is 5%. That means 50 grams of salt in a liter of water, 1 ounce of salt for every ...
Also posted in Brines, Chicken, Ratios, Recipes Tagged Brine, brining technique, chicken recipe, quick brine Comments closed



















