Category Archives: From Scratch

Classic Hollandaise

 

Making a traditional Hollandaise, yolks in a vinegar reduction (all photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman).

On Saturday night, sitting in the Ohio State Theater waiting for Jim Gaffigan to go on, I got a tweet from Elise alerting me that a website had stolen my text and Donna's photos from the following post. Elise, creator of the site Simply Recipes and vigilant crusader for blogger rights and general Internet justice, also sent me a link to the Google page to report copyright infringement. I wrote to Google, and the folks there had the theft taken down within days. So here's a prime example of the very hard work Elise does, not just her consistently excellent publishing at Simply Recipes, but also her work on behalf of other bloggers. And also ...

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Also posted in aromatics, Breakfast, Food Writing, Kitchen Tips, Ratios, Recipes, sauce, Technique | Tagged , , , , , | 6 Comments

Cultured Butter

 

Cultured Butter, photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Back at my desk after three weeks on the road (daughter college trip/week in West Palm to visit Mom with Donna and the kids/NYC biz). NYC biz fun!!! Stayed with dear friend Annie LaG, with whom I'm working on a TV project (don't hold your breath), following fab lunch at the always excellent Bar Boulud (thanks chefs Damian and Daniel! Your pâtés rock!); my book Twenty won an IACP award (yay!); had dinner with the mercurial Amanda Hesser after getting lost in Williamsburg thanks to dead iPhone 3G (ate at Isa, where two tables down was the excellent Eric Asimov, who was so kind to me at the NYTimes when he was a rising copy editor and I was a lowly copy boy in ...

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Also posted in Technique | Tagged , , | 63 Comments

Corned Beef: It’s Never Too Late!

Corned beef and cabbage, Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

It's not too late to corn your own beef if you celebrate St. Paddy's day! I haven't yet and my wife, who has Irish roots, expects it on this day! Below is a recipe for a quick cure, which should work on most contemporary briskets which are an inch or two thick (it's all in the pickling spice, which you can buy or better, use our recipe below, far far superior than store bought if you're not pressed for time). You can also use a two-inch thick chuck roast or any two-inch thick cut of meat (I actually prefer chuck roast because the briskets are so lean these days, and more expensive). See recipe for the beef below and method for finishing the meal ...

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Also posted in aromatics, Beef, Butchery, Charcuterie, Ethnic Cuisine, Recipes | Tagged , , , | 104 Comments

Breaded Cutlets

In a schnitzel mood? Here is a quick recipe for making schnitzel at home, via Souvlaki for the Soul.

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Also posted in Article, blog, Ethnic Cuisine, Recipes | Tagged , , , | 39 Comments

Aebleskivers—Danish Pan Cakes

Aebleskivers/Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I love Twitter for maybe 50 or 60 different reasons and this post resulted from one of them. A year ago, Donna was poking around in an antique store, bought the above pan for no explainable reason and put it in the basement where it sat untouched for, well, a year. The other day, looking for something to shoot an egg in, she brought it upstairs along with a few other props. The cups are about twenty-five percent bigger than the fattest part of a large egg and it didn't work as a prop. I'm sure I said something annoying like, "You bought that," as in paid cash money for something we can keep in the basement for a year? Then I said, "I mean, what is it." She said something ...

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Also posted in Breakfast, Ethnic Cuisine, Food Culture, Recipes | Tagged , , , , | 104 Comments
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