We live in a time of unprecedented interest in, and care for, food and all the issues that surround its growing, harvesting, purveyance, and its cooking. This interest happened because we were on the brink of losing good food altogether, with farmers disappearing and the masses abandoning the kitchen, handing over our farming to Monsanto and giving our most fundamental and exclusively human act, cooking, over to the ConAgras and McDonalds. (ConAgra, one of our biggest food processors, is that name a joke on us?! Con, against, Agra, agriculuture—against agriculture! At least they’re open about it!) We only become reflective about something we’d previously taken for granted when it becomes imperiled. I’m not saying that rampant diabetes in teenagers, epidemic obesity, social fragmentation and alienation, nitrogen runoff in our rivers and oceans, oceans increasingly depleted Read On »
Posts Categorized: Food Politics
It has been reported that North Sea fishermen are throwing away nearly half their catch, dead. Wasted food, decreasing numbers of fish, and political intervention, via Independent UK.
I’ve always wanted to like 100%-grass-fed beef, but it always made me a little sad. With the first bite, there’s promise but I always find it ultimately lacking the flavor and succulence of beef finished on grain. Having bought in wholly to Michael Pollan’s argument in favor of the natural elegance of beef grown on green grass and clover, being devoted to people who farm for a living the best way they can and wanting to support them, and simply liking eating food raised near my home, I so wanted beef that wasn’t grown wading in CAFO waste, slaughtered en masse, and packaged in plastic and Styrofoam before it reached the grocers, that I held out hope. But ultimately I couldn’t justify paying so much more for it. I’d all but given up when I Read On »
For all the interest in food, chefs, and restaurants, the popularity of “Top Chef” and other shows depicting professional restaurant work, most poeple still have no clear conception of the unique, bizarre, intense, exhalted, depraved, mysterious human stew that restaurants are. Yesterday, New York Times writer Ron Lieber blogged about being kicked out of Marc Forgione’s New York City restaurant. Disturbed by the chef’s protracted yelling at a member of the staff, he marched back to the kitchen to tell the chef what for. The upshot was that Mr. Lieber was asked to leave. (It’s a good post, read it.) Mr. Lieber asked for comment on the blog. Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton called attention to it on Twitter, to which I gave a loud guffaw at Mr. Lieber’s act. He could have been dressed Read On »
Nine hours door to door from Cleveland to my hotel room and I was hungry. The fine folks in Portland organizing the International Association of Culinary professionals, had filled the room with Portland products, wine beer coffee candy and, lo, some serious local beef jerky. Dense sweet salty savory concentrated protein, like candy. I knew I’d arrived in a good place. Ruth Reichl opened the conference the following morning with remarks on the subject that continues to dog her, Gourmet’s end, and her desire to put it in a broader context. “What happened at Gourmet says a lot about where we are on the food landscape” she said, adding, “I should have seen it coming but I didn’t.” Why didn’t she see the death of this eminent, arguably best, food magazine in America? Because Read On »