Category Archives: Eggs

The Egg and the Pressure Cooker

Pressure cooked eggs. Photo by Laura Pazzaglia

This guest post is thanks to twitter, when someone asked me about pressure cooking eggs. I had never done them, but Laura Pazzaglia had. Laura is a pressure-cooker maniac living in Italy and blogging at hippressurecooking.com. My friend Annie LaG took her up on how to cook easy-peel hard-cooked eggs and pronounced them amazing. I have long been a fan of the egg and recently a fan of the pressure cooker (here's the one I use, via Opensky.com). I love it especially when I want to have a quick stew ready for a weeknight dinner. A 2 to 4 hour stew can be completed start to finish in under and hour.  But the egg and the pressure cooker came together on twitter. I invited Laura ...

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Also posted in Appetizers, Guest Post, Kitchen Technology, Kitchen Tips, pressure cooker, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , , | 36 Comments

Book Tour Blessings

Tea eggs with sichuan salt and scallions at The Lantern/all photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I hate book tours. I hate leaving my house. But years ago when I was interviewing David McCullough for my book Wooden Boats, he noted how he hears that from authors all the time and said in his typical exuberant way, and with that inimitable voice, “I love book tours!” It helps that he is universally adored, of course, and is a fine and generous man fawned over wherever he appears. But I thought of him on my return from Durham and Chapel Hill where Anton Zuiker—communications director for Duke Medical Center 9 to 5, and journalist, blogger, husband, dad, angel and friend at all other hours—masterminded a book tour stop for me, in honor of ...

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Also posted in Books, Food Adventure, Restaurants, Travel | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Comments closed

The Badass Perforated (aka Egg) Spoon
Recipe: Poached Egg with Sauteed Spinach

A great way to poach an egg / Photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

A couple years ago, nosing around in McGee's On Food and Cooking, I came across his suggestion that one could make neater poached eggs by getting rid of the liquidy, flyaway whites before poaching.  And it works! (There's really no point in adding acid to the water.) Regrettably, I left my good perforated spoon at a Macy's demo and was left a generic slotted spoon with a shallow bowl and the egg always wanted to jump out. So when my friend Mac suggested we make some kitchen tools, a great perforated spoon was high on the list.  And here it is, The Badass Perforated (aka Egg) Spoon, now available at OpenSky, a new, still evolving e-commerce site ...

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Also posted in Recipes, ruhlman products, Technique, Vegetables | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Comments closed

Quick Deviled Eggs

So Joe and I got to playing with the video camera early this spring, just to have some fun. (Please excuse awkward editing moment.) Also, it's a bit on the longish side (6:30) so if you want to cut to the chase, the point of this thing happens between 2:30 and 3:10 minutes. I love deviled eggs, but after making this video I realized that there was no reason you even have to go through the rigmarole of mixing the yolks and mayo and mustard and piping all that into halved whites.  For a last minute deviled egg, just top it with the same ingredients. Last minute Deviled Eggs 6 ounces mayonnaise (see video above for technique) 1 tablespoon minced shallot macerated for 10 minutes in 1 tablespoon lemon juice, then strained 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1/8-1/4 teaspoon cayenne 4 hard cooked ...

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Classic Hollandaise Sauce

Making a traditional Hollandaise, yolks in a vinegar reduction (all photos by Donna).

[Please note additional thoughts following comments here and on Twitter]

Elise emailed a couple weeks ago to ask if I'd posted on Hollandaise.  She'd posted the blender version, first popularized by Craig Claiborne in the 1970s in The New York Times, and wanted to link for contrast to an old-school version.  The blender version is unquestionably a no-brainer and results in a delicious Hollandaise-style sauce, a lemony yolky butter, thin enough to pour. A classical French Hollandaise sauce is an emulsified butter sauce that is almost like a mayonnaise, nearly that thick, and, as I was taught it, includes an additional flavoring step, a vinegar reduction.  It's considered difficult and temperamental but it's neither, as long as you pay attention and don't let it ...

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Also posted in Technique | Tagged , | Comments closed

How To Make Quiche

Quiche 2 Photos by donna [I'm on a blog break from 5/17 through 5/31, so I'm putting up favorite food posts from the archives, this one on quiche published last July] On Wednesday I flew to Washington to make a quiche at the restaurant Proof for a segment on "All Things Considered" with one of the show's new hosts, Guy Raz.  Guy said he read the Slate review of the book, which called my book Ratio "fascinating and pompous," and was intrigued.  So he and his producer, Phil Harrel, requested a dish that combined two ratios.  Quiche immediately came to mind, using both the 3-2-1 pie dough ratio (I've lost track of the number of people who have written to thank me for getting them over their fear of pie dough) and the custard ...

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America: Too Stupid To Cook, Part II

Poached egg on a bed of sautéed spinach, photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I tried not to read Kim Severson's New York Times article on the one-touch buttons on appliances at the International Home and Housewares show in Chicago.  You know the buttons that say "Cookies" on your toaster oven or the "Popcorn" button on your microwave that even ConAgra, maker of microwave popcorn, says you should not use.  My microwave, my toaster oven, they have these stupid, maddening, insulting, ridiculous, harmful buttons.  I hate them, but they're unavoidable. I didn't want to read Kim's story—Electrolux oven has a "perfect turkey button," put a turkey in, press a button, perfect turkey!—because I knew it would make ... my ... blood ... BOIL! Hey!  Idiot manufacturers!  Cut it out!  The buttons don't work—even ...

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Also posted in Rant, Recipes, Vegetables | Tagged , , | Comments closed

How To Make Grits
(Sauteed Grits with Sausage and Poached Egg)

Sauteed grits with poached egg and sausage, photo by Donna

Over the weekend I was working on a recipe based on the traditional low country dish, shrimp and grits.  I’d found excellent grits from this company at my grocery store, I tapped my friend and former instructor Eve Felder for her recollections of growing up in Charleston, and I made shrimp and grits for Donna, a late dinner after seeing the amazing Jeff Bridges performance in Crazy Heart. I’d made extra grits so in cleaning up after dinner, I poured the leftovers into a springform pan and refrigerated them.  By morning they were solid and sliceable. Donna happened to be setting up to shoot wine braised short ribs and semolina egg noodles.  I happened to be hungry.  I also happened to have some duck sausage and chicken sausage ...

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Also posted in Breakfast, Charcutepalooza, Technique | Tagged , , , | Comments closed

Excellent Cooked Eggnog Recipe
and Happy New Year!

Photo by Donna, cooked eggnog with meringue and nutmeg

Photo by Donna, cooked eggnog with meringue and nutmeg

I'm so pleased with results of the cooked eggnog I wrote for the last post, I wanted to give an official tested recipe.  Don't misunderstand me.  I'm a fan of raw egg eggnog, as well as aged-for-two-years raw eggnog. I don't believe anyone should be afraid of eating raw egg (especially if you buy organic or well-raised eggs).  Raw yolk on raw ground beef is a delight, a kind of ready made sauce. I love a homemade mayo, a runny poached egg.  Indeed, raw or warm egg is one of the great pleasures of cooking and eating.  So here's to lots of eggs in 2010—may more of them be laid by healthy happy chickens! But there are those who may ...

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Also posted in Ratios, Recipes | Comments closed

Fun with Quail Eggs

Photos by Donna

Photos by Donna

The guy I buy arugula from at our market has a neighbor who raises quail and he brings a few dozen of the eggs each week to sell for his neighbor. I got a batch of each not too long ago (he grows lettuce under plastic well into December).  I've scarcely touched quail eggs.  A couple times in culinary school (garde manger, quail egg and caviar pizza). But they were not something I thought much about.  That's changed. If they’re available to you (I'm told you can often find them at Asian markets) they’re a lot of fun, special because of their size, and easy to work with.

Fried quail egg on arugula, bacon, English muffin croutons and Hollandaise

Fried quail egg on arugula, bacon, English muffin  ...<p class=Click to Continue Reading

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