Category Archives: Eggs

Carbonara

 

Carbonara. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Carbonara. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Michael just got back from an eventful James Beard Awards weekend in New York City, so today's scheduled post has been delayed until tomorrow. So, I was looking back at the archives and I decided to rediscover his reflection on carbonara, his favorite pasta dish. Not only is carbonara a great pasta dish, but it is an essential staple dish. I like that Michael mentions using cured mangalista belly instead of common bacon—that addition elevates carbonara to a different level. (And Michael wanted me to remind people there's still a chance to join a relatively intimate phone conversation today at noon Eastern time set up by Michael's publisher for those who preorder Schmaltz by 11:55 today and email the receipt to littlebrown@hbgusa.com or to him directly at michael@ruhlman.com, to talk about ...

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Also posted in Pasta | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Chasing the Dream: Chef Patricia Tracey
(with Salsa Verde)

Baked eggs – ready to be topped with salsa verde

Baked eggs with salsa verde. Photo by Patricia Tracey.

People call me a chef (even says so here). I’m not a chef. Ted Allen is not a chef (as if his round wood spoons didn’t say as much). Rachael Ray is not a chef. None of us ever said we were. (I have on occasion, claimed to be, but that was just to piss off Michael Symon, who is a chef, or was—now he’s a TV cook, entertainer, and successful restaurateur. I cooked at Sans Souci, a Marriot-owned restaurant, ages ago, but I wouldn’t last an hour on the line today.) Terms matter. I say this because today’s guest poster, Patricia Tracey, is and remains solely a chef. Not a celeb chef like Symon or Bobby Flay (both of ...

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Also posted in chefs, Food Adventure, Food Business, Guest Post, Recipes, sauce | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 13 Comments

Friday Cocktail Hour: Clover Club

The classic cocktail: the Clover Club. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

A classic cocktail: the Clover Club. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

This Friday cocktail recipe is posted with heavy shame. I'm sorry, but it's the way it sometimes goes with blog posts. I'll always be honest with you. Regrettably, there are multiple levels of shame here. Ignorance, laziness, bad planning, haste, forced collusion. It all started when Jeff Houck, the Tampa journalist (the sounds so much more formidable than a, doesn't it? and since I like the guy's work, he's definitely a the), wrote an article about digital food books, which noted this excellent iBook called 25 Classic Cocktails. I asked the guys who made it to do a guest post and offer some cocktails. They chose a Pink Lady and also gave the recipe for ...

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Also posted in Cocktails, Recipes | Tagged , , , , | 19 Comments

Pasta: “Agnolotti” (and the power of ratios)

 

Making delicious agnolotti. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman
Making delicious agnolotti. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.
Saturday I was reminded of the efficiency of using ratios when I wanted to make a crepe and was so moved to post on the subject that I put up crappy photos of the actual crepe I ate while at my desk. Still with ratios on my mind, and given that my wife has abandoned me for NYC for a few days, I asked for some proper food photography using a ratio—here with pasta, so easy, so good, and the amazing, self-sealing ravioli, referred to at The French Laundry as agnolotti. In fact, agnolotti are three-tipped ravioli reminiscent of an Italian priest’s hat, but where Thomas learned about them, these ...

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Also posted in Pasta, Ratios, Recipes | Tagged , , , | 19 Comments

Crepes (and the power of ratios)

Crepes for lunch? Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Crepes for impromptu lunch./Photos by Michael's iPhone (he's too ashamed to take credit)

I'm working on a book unrelated to ratios, but midday Saturday as my over-caffeinated stomach began to rumble, I thought about the Indian dal we'd had the night before, one of our staple meals. I've published the recipe in Ruhlman's Twenty but keep meaning to publish it here because it takes about 10 minutes total prep time (an hour to simmer), and with some rice and pappadams is a great meal. The thing is we'd eaten all the rice, I didn't feel like plain dal or heating oil for pappadams, and I happened to be writing about a specific dessert crepe. And there it was—I'll make a couple of crepes. Where on earth, though, is there a recipe for ...

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Also posted in Breakfast, Ratios, Recipes | Tagged , , | 34 Comments
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