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Category Archives: Eggs
The Egg and the Pressure Cooker
This guest post is thanks to twitter, when someone asked me about pressure cooking eggs. I had never done them, but Laura Pazzaglia had. Laura is a pressure-cooker maniac living in Italy and blogging at hippressurecooking.com. My friend Annie LaG took her up on how to cook easy-peel hard-cooked eggs and pronounced them amazing. I have long been a fan of the egg and recently a fan of the pressure cooker (here's the one I use, via Opensky.com). I love it especially when I want to have a quick stew ready for a weeknight dinner. A 2 to 4 hour stew can be completed start to finish in under and hour. But the egg and the pressure cooker came together on twitter. I invited Laura ...
Also posted in Appetizers, Guest Post, Kitchen Technology, Kitchen Tips, pressure cooker, Recipes Tagged boiled, cocotte, Eggs, hip pressure cooking, Laura Pazzaglia, pressure cooker, recipe 36 Comments
Book Tour Blessings
I hate book tours. I hate leaving my house. But years ago when I was interviewing David McCullough for my book Wooden Boats, he noted how he hears that from authors all the time and said in his typical exuberant way, and with that inimitable voice, “I love book tours!” It helps that he is universally adored, of course, and is a fine and generous man fawned over wherever he appears. But I thought of him on my return from Durham and Chapel Hill where Anton Zuiker—communications director for Duke Medical Center 9 to 5, and journalist, blogger, husband, dad, angel and friend at all other hours—masterminded a book tour stop for me, in honor of ...
Also posted in Books, Food Adventure, Restaurants, Travel Tagged Anton Zuiker, David McCullough, Dorie Greenspan, Kojo Nnamdi, Lantern, Monica Bhide, North Carolina, NPR, The Great American Cookbook, The Monti, The State Of Things, Watt's Grocery Comments closed
The Badass Perforated (aka Egg) Spoon
Recipe: Poached Egg with Sauteed Spinach
A couple years ago, nosing around in McGee's On Food and Cooking, I came across his suggestion that one could make neater poached eggs by getting rid of the liquidy, flyaway whites before poaching. And it works! (There's really no point in adding acid to the water.) Regrettably, I left my good perforated spoon at a Macy's demo and was left a generic slotted spoon with a shallow bowl and the egg always wanted to jump out.
So when my friend Mac suggested we make some kitchen tools, a great perforated spoon was high on the list. And here it is, The Badass Perforated (aka Egg) Spoon, now available at OpenSky, a new, still evolving e-commerce site ...
Also posted in Recipes, ruhlman products, Technique, Vegetables Tagged bad ass egg spoon, bad ass perforated egg spoon, deviled eggs, egg facts, egg spoon, frisee salad, how to poach an egg, Michael Ruhlman product line, on food and cooking, poached egg Comments closed
Quick Deviled Eggs
So Joe and I got to playing with the video camera early this spring, just to have some fun. (Please excuse awkward editing moment.) Also, it's a bit on the longish side (6:30) so if you want to cut to the chase, the point of this thing happens between 2:30 and 3:10 minutes. I love deviled eggs, but after making this video I realized that there was no reason you even have to go through the rigmarole of mixing the yolks and mayo and mustard and piping all that into halved whites. For a last minute deviled egg, just top it with the same ingredients. Last minute Deviled Eggs 6 ounces mayonnaise (see video above for technique) 1 tablespoon minced shallot macerated for 10 minutes in 1 tablespoon lemon juice, then strained 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1/8-1/4 teaspoon cayenne 4 hard cooked ...
Also posted in Recipes Comments closed
Classic Hollandaise Sauce
[Please note additional thoughts following comments here and on Twitter]
Elise emailed a couple weeks ago to ask if I'd posted on Hollandaise. She'd posted the blender version, first popularized by Craig Claiborne in the 1970s in The New York Times, and wanted to link for contrast to an old-school version. The blender version is unquestionably a no-brainer and results in a delicious Hollandaise-style sauce, a lemony yolky butter, thin enough to pour. A classical French Hollandaise sauce is an emulsified butter sauce that is almost like a mayonnaise, nearly that thick, and, as I was taught it, includes an additional flavoring step, a vinegar reduction. It's considered difficult and temperamental but it's neither, as long as you pay attention and don't let it ...
How To Make Quiche
Photos by donna
[I'm on a blog break from 5/17 through 5/31, so I'm putting up favorite food posts from the archives, this one on quiche published last July]
On Wednesday I flew to Washington to make a quiche at the restaurant Proof for a segment on "All Things Considered" with one of the show's new hosts, Guy Raz. Guy said he read the Slate review of the book, which called my book Ratio "fascinating and pompous," and was intrigued. So he and his producer, Phil Harrel, requested a dish that combined two ratios. Quiche immediately came to mind, using both the 3-2-1 pie dough ratio (I've lost track of the number of people who have written to thank me for getting them over their fear of pie dough) and the custard ...
America: Too Stupid To Cook, Part II
I tried not to read Kim Severson's New York Times article on the one-touch buttons on appliances at the International Home and Housewares show in Chicago. You know the buttons that say "Cookies" on your toaster oven or the "Popcorn" button on your microwave that even ConAgra, maker of microwave popcorn, says you should not use. My microwave, my toaster oven, they have these stupid, maddening, insulting, ridiculous, harmful buttons. I hate them, but they're unavoidable. I didn't want to read Kim's story—Electrolux oven has a "perfect turkey button," put a turkey in, press a button, perfect turkey!—because I knew it would make ... my ... blood ... BOIL!
Hey! Idiot manufacturers! Cut it out! The buttons don't work—even ...
Also posted in Rant, Recipes, Vegetables Tagged america too stupid to cook, appliances, Eggs Comments closed
How To Make Grits
(Sauteed Grits with Sausage and Poached Egg)
Over the weekend I was working on a recipe based on the traditional low country dish, shrimp and grits. I’d found excellent grits from this company at my grocery store, I tapped my friend and former instructor Eve Felder for her recollections of growing up in Charleston, and I made shrimp and grits for Donna, a late dinner after seeing the amazing Jeff Bridges performance in Crazy Heart.
I’d made extra grits so in cleaning up after dinner, I poured the leftovers into a springform pan and refrigerated them. By morning they were solid and sliceable.
Donna happened to be setting up to shoot wine braised short ribs and semolina egg noodles. I happened to be hungry. I also happened to have some duck sausage and chicken sausage ...
Excellent Cooked Eggnog Recipe
and Happy New Year!

Photo by Donna, cooked eggnog with meringue and nutmeg
Fun with Quail Eggs

Photos by Donna
Fried quail egg on arugula, bacon, English muffin croutons and Hollandaise
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Also posted in Ratios Comments closed

















