Category Archives: egg

Thanksgiving Dressing

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: November 20, 2013

The basic ratio for custard makes your holiday dressing. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

I stopped stuffing our Thanksgiving turkey reluctantly, as the stuffing was always my favorite part of the meal when Grandma Spamer made it. But my goal became a perfectly cooked bird, and you can't cook a turkey perfectly if it's stuffed. So now I make what we must refer to as dressing, no matter what Mario says ("That's what you put on a salad."). Dressing denotes that it's stuffing cooked in a pan. And it can still be the very best part of the meal! Thanks to a versatile ratio, it's a no brainer. Dressing, and there are infinite variations, is little more than a savory bread pudding. To ...

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Also posted in Books, Bread, From Scratch, Holiday, Ratios, Recipes | Tagged bake, bread pudding, custard, dressing, Epicurious, herbs, holiday, leeks, ratio, stuffing, thanksgiving | 29 Comments

Final Word on Battle of the Spoons
(with Crème Anglaise)

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 18, 2013

Creme angliase. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

A perfect crème anglaise. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

The television personality and cookbook author Ted Allen stirred up a shit storm this week by calling me out on my hatred of the round wooden spoon, which he apparently has the hots for. He happened to mention our exchange at a City Harvest event to Eric Ripert, executive chef of Le Bernardin, one of the finest restaurants in the country, with whom I’ve worked closely, who added a little more caca to the pot by tweeting "Crème anglaise? Since the days of Escoffier, stir with a wood spoon, Ruhlman." He then phoned me to further faire caca into my cell phone until he conceded that it was the wood, not a round wood spoon, then was evasive, said a client ...

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Also posted in Books, Desserts, Recipes, sauce | Tagged creme anglaise, dessert, Eggs, Epicurious, recipe, sauce, Ted Allen, wooden paddles | Comments closed

Making Mayonnaise

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: March 18, 2013

Homemade mayonnaise is faster to make then you think. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

You can't buy this kind of mayonnaise. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Yet again finishing up a manuscript with mayonnaise on my mind, and I always think of Donna's lovely images, captured when spring light was coming through our kitchen window. I could look at these forever (and now, as I couldn't five years ago, I can post them to Twitter). Thanks, Donna! And remember, the emulsion is less about the yolk than about the liquid. Originally posted on May 21, 2008 Finishing up the revisions of a manuscript and going over some fat-based sauces has returned me to the mayonnaise. Like the popover, it’s the story of a great transformation. Yolk, lemon juice, salt, and oil.

There simply isn’t ...

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Also posted in From Scratch, Recipes, sauce | Tagged Eggs, lemon, mayo, mayonnaise, oil, recipe | Comments closed

Category Archives: egg

Thanksgiving Dressing

Final Word on Battle of the Spoons
(with Crème Anglaise)

Making Mayonnaise

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