December is the month for making brioche at home. It’s the great holiday bread.  Though calling it bread doesn’t do it justice.  Good brioche is like a cross between bread and cake.  Hell, it’s really cake sneaking in as bread. Nothing better on Christmas morning. It’s a celebratory bread—rich with butter and eggs.  Toast it and eat it with butter. Toast it and eat it with foie gras. It makes extraordinary and delicate croutons.  Nothing makes better French toast.  And it’s fabulous on its own, straight out of the oven. I made it once for my daughter Addison.  When she asked for a repeat performance, I wrote the below recipe so that she could make it on her own. She first made it when she was eleven, four years ago, and she still makes it Read On »

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Over the weekend I was working on a recipe based on the traditional low country dish, shrimp and grits.  I’d found excellent grits from this company at my grocery store, I tapped my friend and former instructor Eve Felder for her recollections of growing up in Charleston, and I made shrimp and grits for Donna, a late dinner after seeing the amazing Jeff Bridges performance in Crazy Heart. I’d made extra grits so in cleaning up after dinner, I poured the leftovers into a springform pan and refrigerated them.  By morning they were solid and sliceable. Donna happened to be setting up to shoot wine braised short ribs and semolina egg noodles.  I happened to be hungry.  I also happened to have some duck sausage and chicken sausage (from Charcuterie) on hand, a gift for Read On »

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This granola smelled so good when it was baking it actually drew Donna out of bed early on a weekend morning—she’s a winter bear and not easily extracted from within the comforter.  So I had to post, even though I’ve already posted on granola.  This uses the same technique of creating a sweet fruity sauce to toss with the oats and nuts, which I love.  Instead of strawberries and banana I used crisp sweet apples (next time I’ll see how using Granny Smiths work), pureed in a blender skin and all.  By chance, as I was avoiding getting to work by poking around in favorite blogs this morning, and I came across David Lebovitz’s granola, which uses apple sauce (from a Nigella Lawson recipe); David notes that any fruit puree will work.  So, the notion Read On »

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                                                                                                                Photo by Donna T. Ruhlman So I’m working hard to finish up a cookbook I’m writing and have decided to throw some popovers in there because they are just too cool.  This slack batter of flour, egg and milk goes into a little cup into a very hot oven and a half hour later, poof!, a transformation as dramatic as popcorn.  It puffs for the same reason, the steam, the same element that puff gougeres as well.  Delicious and so, so easy. Mix together 1 egg, 1/2 cup of milk, 1/2 cup of flour, and a 1/2 Read On »

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