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Category Archives: Braise
schmaltz, as the High Holy days of the Jewish year approached and she was the cook in the family. Long having wanted to explore this oft-maligned fat, I asked for Lois's help in understanding its history and use. (Almost everyone refers to it as "heart attack food," but it's not. It's good for you! In moderation. Lois is in her 70s and cooks like a banshee, her husband Russell is in his 80s and still practices law, and Lois's mom cooked schmaltz well into her 90s, though she wouldn't admit it.) Schmaltz, rendered chicken fat flavored with onion, was such an odd topic, and so focused, it didn't seem like a ...A year ago, my neighbor, Lois Baron, said she had to leave a party early to make
The New York Times tells you to steam your turkey! Not that there's anything wrong with the story or the technique (by the Jacques Pépin, after all). My view is why mess with what works? For important occasions, the rule is: go with what works. And of all my years roasting a turkey, I've found that the braise/roast method works best, as I wrote last year. The reason is that this method solves the two great Turkey Conundrums: 1) how to have both juicy breast meat and tender dark meat, and 2) how to serve it all hot to a lot of ...I love how every year the major food media come up with some new way to do the same old thing. This year
While I love this video—and, yes, Le Creuset is giving away ten of these awesome oval pots (yes, giving them away)—the video doesn't show how succulent and delicious and simple these bean dishes are. Kate will be pissed that I'm desecrating her beloved cassoulet with American middle-of-the-week ease. Sorry, Kate (but not really). I got great Tarbais-style beans from Steve Sando of Ranch Gordo; these and a great pot are all you need. Sure, I'd love some moulard duck leg confit, but I don't have it here! What I have is pork! And I love pork, and it's delicious, and this dish adds up to just a few dollars a portion (even with Whole Foods meat!). Easy cassoulet, American style: thick chunks of bacon started in water (to speed the fat-rendering), browned, then pork shoulder chunks seared in the bacon fat, the ...
We're back with another cooking lesson and Le Creuset giveaway! This time with my favorite cooking method: braising. Why is it my favorite? Because it so definitively expresses what real cooking is: transformation. Great cooking is about transforming something that would be unpleasant to eat into something exquisite. In my view, grilling a steak is not cooking, it's heating. That's not to diminish grilling steaks—one of my favorite activities and foods to eat. It can be done well or poorly, but it doesn't transform food, which is what truly inspires me in the kitchen. To transform pork shoulder into a sausage is cooking. Whether caramelizing onions to develop their sweetness or toasting seasonings in a pan to grind and create a curry, that's cooking. And braising, transforming tough cuts of meat into meltingly tender mouthfuls of pleasure—that is cooking. In the above video, I talk about the ...