I hate tofu. That’s been my knee-jerk response pretty much since tasting it the first time and every time I had it after. It wasn’t so much that it had no flavor—nothing really not to like about that; what’s not to like about nothing?—it was rather the lack of flavor combined with its curdy texture. I remember talking with Michael Symon in his restaurant Lola in Cleveland when he was trying to come up with a vegetarian or vegan dish to put on the menu that used tofu. I asked, “Why do you want to do that?” “I don’t know,” he said. “I hate tofu.” And that was that. No tofu on the Lola menu. So when Andrea Nguyen, a cook and writer whom I met at the Greenbrier food writers’ symposium and whom I Read On »

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How to execute the perfect Nicoise salad from fish to vegetable to dressing, via Guardian UK.

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Last week I wrote about our first meal in Italy with the Motturas—the fineness of the meal and the pleasures of sitting down to many courses. But many courses didn’t mean many elaborate courses but rather food of the simplest order. The first course was composed of nothing more than day-old bread and a few garden vegetables, seasoned with vinegar and oil. When this was done, our host Alessandra disappeared from the table to make the soup course. It too used vegetables from the garden and water. I’ve long espoused the value of water, devoting a whole chapter to its many uses in Ruhlman’s Twenty, and I was pleased to see it used so efficiently here. So much so that I bought a couple of small summer squashes at our Saturday farmers’ market to make Read On »

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How To Prepare a Simple Crab Boil Originally posted on August 11, 2011 By far the best meal of the summer was our crab boil during our week in Ocracoke. And like many “best” meals, it was unplanned, a surprise, a gift we were smart enough to take advantage of. Donna has pals from her native Port Washington, NY, who have houses here, and one owns a popular restaurant on this lovely barrier island off the coast of North Carolina (a ferry ride away from Cape Hatteras). So she found us a swank house on the water where we and friends and Donna’s sister and nieces could frolic. In the grass beside the house was an old crab pot. In the house was my sun-averse pal Lester. In the fridge was a beef heart. As Read On »

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Bill Granger of the Independent UK shares a few essential breakfast of champions recipes for watching the Olympics, via Independent UK.

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