Category Archives: aromatics

A spice, herb, or vegetable that helps build flavor in a sauce, soup, stock, or any dish. Also includes mirepoix.

Auntie Reggie’s Minestrone

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 8, 2013

Regina Turner Simmons and her weekday minestrone/photo by sister Donna.

Regina Turner Simmons and her weekday minestrone. Photo by sister Donna.

Tuesday or Wednesday is usually soup day here, as it was last week when Donna's sister, Regina, was here for Cakes 101, to teach me cake basics and all about the creams and curds that fill a cake and give it flavor. I wanted to be able to show what a proper cake could look like in the book we're currently working on, and as Regina bakes wedding and special-occasion cakes in the Hudson Valley, we brought her in for a working visit. We spend Thanksgiving with Donna's family in Germantown, NY, and last year Regina had two big pots of soup on the stove as the family converged on the house, one of which was so beloved by my ...

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Also posted in Recipes, Soups, Vegetables | Tagged , | 5 Comments

Chickpea Salad

By Emilia | Published: April 8, 2013

Need a fresh salad recipe then check out this lentil and chickpea salad with feta and tahini, via Smitten Kitchen.

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Also posted in Appetizers, Ethnic Cuisine, Recipes, Salads | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

How Important Is Garlic?

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 2, 2013

This is perfect garlic. Photo by DonnaTurner Ruhlman

This is perfect garlic. Photo by DonnaTurner Ruhlman.

Garlic has changed for me. Now that really good, hard-stemmed varieties are available, I love to use it just briefly cooked. I find that in the traditional uses—in mirepoix for stews and sauces—it is completely lost. That's right, I almost never use it in tomato-based sauces—the onion does all the heavy lifting. If I want garlic in a sauce or a braise I add it late in the game. My favorite way to cook garlic is briefly and in abundance, so you can taste it. Cooked this way it's the powerhouse we've always thought of it as. I love it just briefly cooked in oil and used with pasta or smeared on toast. Donna and I used it in great abundance ...

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Also posted in Vegetables | Tagged , , , | 19 Comments

Chicken Sausage

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: March 29, 2013

Chicken sausages. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Homemade chicken sausages. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Today my Friday cocktail will be a daiquiri here in Palm Beach. Or you could instead sit down with a Lagunitas IPA and a few homemade chicken sausages; this recipe originally appears in Charcuterie.  

Chicken Sausage with Basil and Tomatoes

  • 3 1⁄2 pounds/1.5 kilograms boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cubed
  • 1 1⁄2 pounds/675 grams pork back fat, cubed, diced into 1-inch pieces
  • 3 tablespoons/40 grams kosher salt
  • 1 teaspoon/3 grams freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 1⁄2 teaspoons/9 grams minced garlic
  • 4 tablespoons/24 grams tightly packed chopped fresh basil
  • 1⁄2 cup/100 grams fresh diced roma (plum) tomatoes
  • 1⁄4 cup/60 grams diced sun-dried tomatoes
  • 1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters red wine vinegar, chilled
  • 1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters extra virgin olive oil
  • 1⁄4 cup/60 milliliters dry red wine, chilled
  • 10 feet/3 meters hog casings, soaked in tepid water for at ...

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Also posted in Butchery, Charcuterie, Recipes | Tagged , , , , | 14 Comments

The Key to Flaky Biscuits

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 20, 2013

Nothing beats an oven fresh biscuit. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Nothing beats an oven-fresh biscuit. Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman.

Ages ago a reader requested a biscuit post and now, in something of a dreary February brain hibernation, I thought would be the perfect time. Donna shot this biscuit while I was writing Ratio and what I love about it is not the ratio itself (3 parts flour : 1 part fat : 2 parts liquid) but rather how the rolling technique results in layered flakiness. It's kind of a cross between a pie crust and puff pastry. A pie crust is flaky because random knots of butter separate layers of dough and puff when baked. With puff pastry, one sets out to create precise layers of dough and butter, hundreds of them, by successively folding and rolling out a ...

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Also posted in american regional cuisine, baking, Bread, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , , | 52 Comments

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