Still slammed after weeks away. Part of todays work is going over 2nd pass proofs of Salumi, now scheduled for August 27th publication. First pass illustrations all out of place. Also need to check all salt concentrations. Very important! The above was taken sampling American and smuggled Italian salumi after a trip there. —MR

Originally posted June 24, 2010

On our trip to Italy, Brian Polcyn and I saw a lot of new cuts we weren’t familiar with, so as soon as we returned, we made plans to break down a couple of pigs Italian style, bringing in chef Jay Denham, who was recently back from five months staging in Italy.  We wanted to see how he broke a half animal into primals and we also wanted to learn the culatello cut.  Jay had spent many weeks staging at Massimo Spigaroli’s operation, learning this technique for producing what some consider to be the finest version of prosciutto di Parma there is.

From left, I, Brian and Jay tasting salumi

Jay and Brian arrived Tuesday evening and we started with a salumi tasting from American producers.  We tasted salamis from Knight Salumi in San Diego, I had some Mangalista belly and lardo from Mosefund farm, Brian brought some of his prosciutto di Michigan, as well, and I also had some of Jay’s coppa (Jay is the head salumi-maker for a new venture called Woodland Pork).

The following day Scott delivered our pigs, we headed out to Bar Symon whose chef, Matt Harlan, gave us some kitchen real estate to work in.  Thank God for big kitchens (and for all your work, Jon Bito on our behalf).  Jay did the first hog, demonstrating the way Italian breakdown is designed to make best use of the cuts for curing.  The American way of breaking down a pig, designed to focus attention on the center of the pig and on roasting cuts, slices straight through the coppa (the muscle that goes from the neck into the loin), one of the most important cuts in Italian salumi.

Jay Denham, salumi maker for the new Woodland Pork, traveled from his home in Louisville to show us how he butcher's pigs. Here he bones out the middle section of the spine and ribs, leaving the loin and belly.

As Jay noted, “Breaking down a pig is a lot like cooking. Everyone has their own interpretation.”

We had several chef on hand to help and to learn and it was all well documented with photography and video.

The best part of the day was learning the culatello cut.  I have to wait for closer to the time the book comes out to post about that—too important!

Jay, many thanks for traveling all those miles to cut pig in Cleveland.  We’re all truly grateful!

Update: Sadly, Knight Salumi closed their doors in the Fall of 2010.

If you liked this post on Salumi, check out these other links:

© 2012 Michael Ruhlman. Photo © 2012 Donna Turner-Ruhlman. All rights reserved



117 Wonderful responses to “Salumi”


    This web page can be a stroll-by means of for all the data you wanted about this and didn’t know who to ask. Glimpse right here, and you’ll undoubtedly discover it.


    Spot on with this write-up, I really think this web site needs rather more consideration. I’ll in all probability be once more to learn rather more, thanks for that info.


    I’m impressed, I need to say. Actually hardly ever do I encounter a blog that’s each educative and entertaining, and let me tell you, you’ve hit the nail on the head. Your concept is excellent; the difficulty is something that not sufficient individuals are talking intelligently about. I am very completely satisfied that I stumbled across this in my search for something regarding this.


    Youre so cool! I dont suppose Ive read anything like this before. So good to search out someone with some original ideas on this subject. realy thanks for beginning this up. this web site is something that’s needed on the net, someone with just a little originality. useful job for bringing one thing new to the web!


    Nice post. I learn something more challenging on completely different blogs everyday. It will at all times be stimulating to read content material from other writers and practice somewhat one thing from their store. I’d prefer to make use of some with the content material on my weblog whether you don’t mind. Natually I’ll give you a hyperlink on your internet blog. Thanks for sharing.


    Aw, this was a very nice post. In idea I would like to put in writing like this moreover – taking time and actual effort to make a very good article… however what can I say… I procrastinate alot and by no means seem to get one thing done.


    Oh my goodness! an incredible article dude. Thank you However I am experiencing challenge with ur rss . Don’t know why Unable to subscribe to it. Is there anybody getting similar rss downside? Anybody who is aware of kindly respond. Thnkx

  • indian restaurant

    This is the appropriate blog for anyone who desires to find out about this topic. You notice so much its almost arduous to argue with you (not that I truly would need…HaHa). You definitely put a new spin on a topic thats been written about for years. Great stuff, simply great!

  • indian restaurants aberdeen

    Good day! I just would like to give an enormous thumbs up for the great information you could have right here on this post. I will probably be coming back to your weblog for extra soon.

  • indian restaurant

    Nice post. I study something more difficult on totally different blogs everyday. It is going to always be stimulating to learn content from other writers and follow slightly something from their store. I’d desire to use some with the content material on my blog whether you don’t mind. Natually I’ll give you a link on your internet blog. Thanks for sharing.

  • click

    I loved as much as you will receive carried out right here. The sketch is attractive, your authored material stylish. nonetheless, you command get got an shakiness over that you wish be delivering the following. unwell unquestionably come further formerly again since exactly the same nearly very often inside case you shield this hike.

  • odszkodowania powypadkowe w uk

    Good post right here. One thing I would really like to say is that most professional areas consider the Bachelor Degree just as the entry level requirement for an online course. Even though Associate Certification are a great way to start out, completing your Bachelors presents you with many good opportunities to various jobs, there are numerous internet Bachelor Course Programs available through institutions like The University of Phoenix, Intercontinental University Online and Kaplan. Another concern is that many brick and mortar institutions make available Online versions of their qualifications but typically for a drastically higher charge than the institutions that specialize in online qualification plans.

  • music library

    Together with almost everything that appears to be building inside this particular area, a significant percentage of perspectives are actually relatively radical. Nonetheless, I appologize, but I can not subscribe to your whole suggestion, all be it exhilarating none the less. It appears to everybody that your comments are actually not entirely validated and in simple fact you are your self not wholly certain of the assertion. In any event I did appreciate looking at it.

  • escort

    It’s really a great and helpful piece of information. I’m glad that you shared this useful information with us. Please keep us informed like this. Thanks for sharing.


  1.  lipo 6 black hers results
  2.  sztachety plastikowe
  3.  obrazy do firmy
  4.  archiwizacja danych
  5.  Excessive Burping Bloating | Excessive burping
  6.  sztachety plastikowe
  7.  Ogrodzenia Farmerskie
  8.  best guaranteed approval credit cards bad credit
  9.  fitnessExercices