Chicken Curry by James/Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

There are lots of ways to change the food system, and you and I aren’t likely to do it. It’s going to be our kids who do it.

Two weeks ago I threw together a quick chicken curry and both the kids liked it, so I asked, “Is this a keeper?” and they nodded, chewing hungrily.

So, last week, when 12-year-old James got home from school, I said, “We’re having chicken curry tonight.”

He said, “Yes.”

I said, “You’re going to make it.” He didn’t respond. “I’ll do all the prep and you’re going to make it.”

He said, “OK.”

An hour before I wanted dinner on the table, I diced an onion. I’ve already taught him how to hold a knife and halve, slice, or dice an onion; tonight I wanted him to see how easy chicken curry was to make. I sliced up a package of boneless chicken thighs and set out several spices and the chicken stock I’d made two days earlier from the roasted chicken. Then I called James, who was either playing games on his laptop or doing homework—my guess was the latter, given how quick he was to close the computer and trot downstairs.

I had him heat the pot (my favorite family pot, the 5.5-quart Le Creuset; folks with kids, great Mother’s Day/Father’s Day gift! Fwd this post to spouse!), pour the oil, and sweat the onions; I showed him how much salt needed to go on the onions as they sweated. Then I had him mix the curry spices. Once the onion was properly tender, he added the chicken and basically stir-fried till all the pink was gone. I then had him clear a spot on the bottom of the pan where he poured the spices and let them toast for a minute before stirring them all in.  I had him pour in a cup of wine and a cup of stock (made from Monday’s roasted chicken carcass; here’s my easy weekly chicken stock recipe, if you want to make it). “Bring it to a simmer, turn it to low, cover it, and you’re done. It’ll be ready to thicken with a slurry in a half hour.” James has long loved to play with cornstarch and water.

“Cool,” he said, and departed.

Now here’s the best part. The curry came out great, and Donna said, “What recipe were you working from?” I told her I was just winging it. Then I said to James, “You could make that yourself now, couldn’t you, without a recipe?”

He shrugged and nodded.

And this, dear readers, it occurred to me later while walking the dog, is how we used to learn to cook and why, when we stopped cooking (starting in the 1950s), we started needing recipes to cook from once we finally woke up and realized how important it is to cook our own food. We used to learn by helping the main cook of the house, watching what they did. It’s why when you ask really good but untrained cooks why they do something, they often say, “Because that’s the way I always do it.” What they really mean is, “That’s how I saw it being made before I started making it myself.”

Again, there are lots of ways to change the food system but you and I aren’t likely to do it. Many are starting, but it’s going to be our kids who will really make the changes. I’ll probably be dead before a decent farm bill passes. But maybe James will grow up to be a senator. (Not what I hope, but it’s possible.) Without doubt he will cast a vote for many. That’s why it’s important to teach kids to cook.

Notes on the following recipe: I add cashews and cilantro, because I like them. The kids are getting their veg from the chicken stock, but I also stir-fried some pea pods and made cucumber-cumin-lime-juice-garlic-yogurt salad for Donna and me. If you want you can add green or red veg to the curry itself—diced bell pepper, cauliflower florets, chopped spinach. As you wish.

James’s Chicken Curry with Cashews

  • vegetable oil to coat pan
  • 1 Spanish onion, diced
  • salt to taste
  • 6–8 boneless skinless chicken thighs, cut into bite-sized pieces
  • 2 tablespoons curry powder
  • 1 teaspoon black cumin/kala jeera (optional)
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne (reduce if you’ve got heat-sensitive palates at the table)
  • 1 cup white wine (optional)
  • 1 to 2 cups chicken stock or water (see note below)
  • 2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with 3 tablespoons cold water, stock, or wine
  • Cashews, unsalted, and toasted (best bought raw and toasted fresh, but we just opened a can)
  • Cilantro to garnish
  1. In a 5-quart saucepan over medium-high to high heat, add enough oil to coat the pan, then add the onion. Stir it to coat it with the oil. Add a hefty four-fingered pinch of salt (James added four James-sized pinches at my instruction).
  2. Add the chicken when the onion is tender (the longer you cook the onion, the sweeter and more complex the finished dish will be; see my book Twenty for more on the power of the onion). Stir continuously until the chicken has lost all its pink.
  3. While the onion and chicken are cooking, combine the curry, cumins, and cayenne.
  4. Push the onion and chicken aside to clear a patch of pan and add the spices so that they toast a little on the dry hot pan.  Then stir it all together.
  5. Add 2 cups of liquid. (Note: I like the acidity of the wine, but you can use 2 cups of stock. If using store-bought stock, I urge you to use only 1 cup along with 1 cup of wine.) Drag your flat-edged wooden spoon over every inch of the bottom of the pan to scrape up the fond, spices, and protein that may have stuck there. Bring to a simmer, cover, and reduce heat to low. The curry is done when the chicken is tender, 20 or 30 minutes. This can be made up to this point several hours in advance, or up to 3 days and refrigerated.
  6. Make a slurry out of the cornstarch and cold water, stock, or wine.  Pour enough of it into the curry till you reach the thickness you want.
  7. Serve with basmati rice and top with the toasted cashews and cilantro.

A couple of good books if you want to learn more about Indian food: Suvir Saran’s Indian Home Cooking, and the very elegant Madhur Jaffrey’s At Home with Madhur Jaffrey.

If you liked this post on chicken curry with cashews, check out these other links:

© 2012 Michael Ruhlman. Photo © 2012 Donna Turner-Ruhlman. All rights reserved.


86 Wonderful responses to “Chicken Curry: Teach Kids To Cook”

  • Jesse

    Sounds delicious, and this is not meant as a criticism of your meal planning at all, but as someone with a nutrition degree, I can assure you there’s no way the chicken broth in a serving of curry contains any significant nutrients from the vegetables that were originally simmered with it. Not a comment on your parenting, just wanted to clear up any illusions. And this recipe is getting bookmarked.

    • John

      A lot of people with nutrition degrees suggest that relatively short contact with hot water rapidly removes nutrients from vegetables. If that were not true, we wouldn’t be instructed to eat crappy steamed broccoli instead of good boiled broccoli. If 5 minutes of boiling removes enough nutrients to tell me not to do it, what am I supposed to think 10 hours of simmering does?

    • Michael Ruhlman

      really? then why does stock made with onion carrot and celery taste so much better?

      • Jesse

        I’m not saying the nutrients would all be destroyed. You’d certainly get some vitamins and minerals from the veg, and the stock is healthier with them than without them. But no fiber (unless you puree the veg into the stock), which is a major reason vegetables are good for us. And amount of chicken stock you’d have to eat to deliver equivalent nutrients as a serving of vegetables would likely be unrealistically huge.

        Let’s say you use an onion, 2 carrots, and a celery stalk for 4 quarts of stock. A cup of broth is 1/16th of that total. Divide the veg by 16 and you get 1/16th of an onion, 1/8th of a carrot, and 1/16th of a celery stick. That’s already a tiny amount of veg for a 1 cup serving of broth, and we haven’t accounted for nutrients lost – those that remain in the veg when you strain, and those destroyed by the long cooking time.

        I love chicken stock and think it’s great for you. It just doesn’t count as vegetables!

        • allen

          Finaly! A post about something other than cocktails, wheew I needed that break!
          There are more important things in life than watching South Park and Impractical Jokers… although nothing comes readily to mind and cooking aint one of them…but it’s close!
          Outstanding assistance in sparking the interest in cooking, I’m sure from the photo he’ll take to it just fine.

  • Tags

    Here’s an idea for a TV show. Have a cooking instructor instruct a neophyte on how to prepare a meal while facing off against a trained cook or chef.

    • Tucker Keene

      The Food Network’s “Worst Cooks in America” basically does that already.

  • Tammy Kleinman

    I wholeheartedly agree that it will be up to our kids to make significant “bigger picture” changes, though the momentum has started. Meanwhile, it is up to us to teach them why real food matters. it is a privilege, an obligation and a mitzvah (good deed) for parents to teach their children how to cook. Although I’m generally not such a serious person, I do get worked up about this issue. And FYI: this is the third recipe of yours that I’ve bookmarked this month. Thank you for your consistently solid recipes and insightful comments.

  • Craigkite

    Wow, Michael, you a crappy parent. A little catsup would have fulfilled the veg requirements.

  • Saads12

    In Trinidad, we Indo-Trinidadians do things differently. That is how diasporans operate. We make a different kind of chicken curry.. First, we season our chicken with our green seasoning (chadon beni, garlic, chives, ginger, pimentos all ground together in a blender). Leave it to marinate for about 1/2 hour. Then we heat one thsp canola oil and add fenugreek to roast and flavour the oil. Take out seeds when roasted. Add chopped onions and let them get translucent. Then we add our curry powder, tumeric and some water (premixed in a little bowl) and add to oil. We let the curry mixture fry up really well with the onions and oil. To not to do so is to give your eaters diarrohea. Our curry powder mixtures are very strong, without any fillers etc. After we add the chicken and turn it up really well in the curry sauce. We add more seasonings and scotch bonnet peppers (cause we love our curries spicy). We put the pot on low heat and let the chicken cook in its own juices. We let the juices cook all the way down,then keep turning the chicken gently so it does not burn. This is called ‘bounjaying’ the curry, so that meat cooks really well. Then we might add a little more water to give us some gravy or ‘surrwah’ . The finished product is eaten with roti (dhal pouri or paratha) or with parboiled rice and split pea soup (called dhal). It is really good.

    • chinos

      Booyah my Trini brother! Good to see a countryman on this website ( of all places ). Love you Ruhlman. Been reading the blog for years. 🙂

  • Karen J

    Chicken broth is vastly superior in nutrient density than any vegetable known to man. Good to get the kids cooking, but even better to educate them on what is REAL food.

    • Genevieve

      The many people throughout the world who live on largely vegetarian diets might be surprised to learn that vegetables are not real food.

    • Sharon

      A cup of chicken broth has 10 calories, 1 gram of protein, no fiber, no vitamin A or C, no iron, and a trace of calcium. A cup of broccoli, on the other hand, has 54 calories, 4 grams of protein, 6 grams of fiber, almost 50% of the RDA of Vitamin A, almost 200% of the RDA of Vitamin C, and 6% each of the RDA for iron and calcium. In what universe is chicken broth “vastly superior” to vegetables in nutrient density?

  • Lori @ RecipeGirl

    Love this story. I have my almost-11 yr. old following recipes and doing it all himself, but I’d love to get him experimenting more without using a recipe. I suppose that will all come with a little experience and guidance. Perhaps he would like to try James’ Chicken Curry!

  • Susan

    My best friend (who I hung out with at her house every day after school) was given the responsibility of getting dinner started before her Mother got home from work. I imagine her Mother had showed her rudimentary knife skills and basic chopping techniques when she was home cooking the meals. We were only 9 and 10 when this started. She didn’t do much of the cooking at that age, mostly just the prep work, but by 12 yrs old, she was getting the actual cooking started so that her Mom only had to detail it a little and plate it up to serve. I never forgot this and had my own kids doing some prep for me when I worked. My friend is an excellent cook, alway has been thanks to her “dinner chores”, and now my kids are undaunted by almost any food that they have a yen to try because of theirs. I am so glad I was able to witness this as a kid because my Mother didn’t allow any of us in the kitchen when she was cooking. Though I didn’t remember specific recipes (except spaghetti sauce from scratch), at least I remembered how to prep for cooking a meal by the time I left home…thanks to my friends Mom.

  • DiggingDogFarm

    The curry looks great!

    I sure wish that everyone who’s capable would teach their kids to cook. I think it’s an abomination that so many grow up lacking even the most rudimentary cooking skills.

    Luckily my mom was a cook so I was taught at an early age, I became very excited and made my first pie at age 13 (my first major project when my mom was’t home).
    It was a green (unripe) apple pie because I didn’t have the patience to let the fruit ripen on the tree out back! LOL

    Green apple pie is, by the way, VERY good!!


  • nossi @ The Kosher Gastronome

    One of the best cooks I know, is my grandmother, who for the life of me, I’ve never seen her even open a cookbook, and everything she makes comes out consistent, and perfect every time…and she’s pretty much the one who started me off in the kitchen (with potato kugel of course)…I’m a huge fan of kids in the kitchen, and can’t wait to cook with my own kids

  • Guy

    Michael, this is exactly how I learned (years ago, is SW Ohio) — standing with my mom, watching, participating and querying. In the explosion of processed food in the 50s, we lagged behind. We still cooked from scratch.

    Brought up to present time — I have two kids, 13 and 15. Both can cook — but I want them to know more. A couple of years ago, I wrote what I called a “kid’s canon” — the idea being that I wanted them to be fully functional when the left for college (and not just in cooking — they also need to learn to do laundry and clean up after themselves too, learn how to balance a checkbook, and all sorts of other functional things). My wife and I reasoned they aren’t going to just pick up on these things by themselves, but they have to be taught.

    So my kid’s canon evolved from the answer to the question, “what kinds of things should a young adult know how to make, focusing on fresh food from a local market.” I wrote things down: breakfast, scrambled eggs, fried eggs, a basic cheese omelette, french toast, steelcut oatmeal, etc. Then I did similar things for lunch and dinner. We’ve got a pretty nice list now, and we’re plodding through it.

    The rationale I use with my kids is this: when you’re in college, it will be a really valuable skill to be able to pull together a quick meal for a group of friends with a quick shopping trip and panty ingredients. Same thing once they are married — who knows whether or not their future spouses will have cooking skills or not. I feel it is our duty to give them a basic appreciation for, and the basic skills to, cook for themselves.

    • mantonat

      This is basically what my parents did for me. My dad was very methodical when it came to teaching us kids about life lessons for adulthood. Important skills included polishing shoes, sewing on a button, car maintenance, cooking, math skills, what ‘clean’ really means, frugality, basic handyman stuff, etc. Every activity was a teaching opportunity because there’s a right way and a wrong way to do everything.

      All-time best typo in your last paragraph, by the way!

  • mantonat

    My mom used to make chicken curry regularly, but she always used leftover chicken from the previous night’s chicken roast. I usually helped with the prep which included chopping bowls of toppings that were put on the table so we could customize our own plates. I think this serving style came from British home cooks who borrowed from the flavors of India; the toppings always included shredded coconut, diced banana, chopped peanuts, and a variety of diced vegetables like onion and bell pepper. Also very British was the ever-present jar of Major Gray’s chutney. When I make it now, I usually leave off the sweeter ingredients in favor of some jalepeno and cilantro, but I still love the jarred chutney.

  • Dean

    I absolutely agree with you, Michael. I cooked with both of my daughters and both have grown up being smart eaters (smart means eating a balanced and a wide variety of foods); and, one turned out to be a pretty good cook who loves experimenting in the kitchen. Besides the benefits to the next generation, was the fun I had in the kitchen creating something alongside my girls. One night, we made a fancy multi-course meal for my parents’ anniversary. The girls, who were in grammar and middle school at the time, helped with the prep, and later donned bistro aprons and served as “front of the house” including serving the wine. I made a “staff meal” for them. All three generations had a fantastic time. Whether it was making a tasty dinner or just a pan of brownies, spending time in the kitchen with the kids was time well spent. I think they got something out of it, I know I did.

  • Tucker Keene

    About a year after I went vegan (age 16), I started realizing that if I wanted good, interesting, tasty food, I would have to learn how to cook high class stuff, so I bought some cookbooks and started teaching myself. I figured out quickly that if I follow recipes perfectly, there is literally nothing I can’t do. Just this January I did some croissants from scratch, and they turned out great. Even meat is easy for me, a vegan, when I follow well written recipes. I did Cook’s Illustrated Fried Chicken for the Super bowl and my guests said they were the best they ever had, and I’m in Texas. This past Thanksgiving I cooked Alton Brown’s Turkey and it was apparently spectacular. Its amazing what I can do if I just follow the recipe!

  • Harry

    This is not directly related to today’s post but there’s no ideal place for it. I don’t comment often but I enjoy your blog. I think on reason is the photos – Donna’s photos are spectacular and seem to make everything look better. I also like how you credit her early and often for it.

  • FoodPorn

    Hi Michael,
    Teaching kids how to cook at their early ages is funtastic. Surely we need to cope out with all the mess, but it’s nothing compared to all fun that we get.
    Btw, we also welcome you to submit your best food photos, just like what you have in this post in our site.

  • former butcher

    On the subject of curry…….It sounds so easy. You can buy jars of spices labelled “Curry”. You can make food with that distinct curry taste with your eyes closed. You can make it mild or hot. You can make it North Indian, South Indian (and myriad other Indian localities), Thai, Indonesian, and even Jamaican and Trinidadian. Yet there are few made with that depth of flavor that makes you say,”Wow, that’s really good curry!” It’s like trying to make that transcendental Oaxacan mole that is exasperatingly elusive.
    Good to get kids cooking, though. I believe that kids are going to like cooking or hate it.
    And I think it was the 80’s when processed foods reached their greatest height. In the 50’s we still had more Moms staying home (like mine), right through the 60’s. They learned to cook from Moms who remembered the Depression and WWII. Our local A&P had a frozen food section the size of a chest freezer. Today…nevermind.

  • Kurt

    I cannot wait to do this with my daughter, even though she just turned one. My mom did the same for me back in the 80s, and I’m going to continue the tradition.

  • Anna

    Hello Emilia,
    Thanks for the Chicken Curry recipe.
    I’ll create one for sure, my kids are gonna like it 🙂
    If you don’t mind, can I submit your Chicken Curry photo in ?
    It’s a food photography site full of all DIY food pictures from members around the world. Or perhaps you’d like to submit by yourself? Let me know when you did, so I can share it.

  • Scribbles

    What’s with all the negative comments about such a great idea? Not only is Michael spending some quality time with his son James he is also teaching James what has become a lost tradition. I, too, learned to cook at home. Being from New Orleans both of my parents are amazing cooks having learned themselves from parents and grandparents.
    So, I applaud you Michael for carrying on a great tradition and for a great recipe.
    BTW, if anyone wants to see amazing kids cooking – and behaving like civilized people – watch Junior Master Chef Australia. You will be blown away by their cooking and how nice they are to each other and adults.

  • Lavenia Hedding

    Really wonderful content. That i really came on your blog page together with imagined to say that we have seriously really liked reading your weblog items. In any case I am going to get subscribing towards your posts together with I really hope everyone put up once soon enough.

  • abercrombie ropa

    ¿Qué pasa con todos los comentarios negativos acerca de una idea tan buena? No sólo es Michael pasar algún tiempo de calidad con su hijo James también se le enseña lo que James se ha convertido en una tradición perdida. Yo también aprendí a cocinar en casa. Siendo de Nueva Orleans, tanto de mis padres son increíbles cocineros de haberse aprendido de sus padres y abuelos.
    Por lo tanto, aplaudo que Michael para el ejercicio de una gran tradición y de una gran receta…

  • Lydia

    *I* don’t even know how to make curry without a recipe! I’m going to make this, and that cucumber salad, very soon. I was wondering what was new and exciting to do with the cucumber in my fridge too. Great post. I am doing something similar teaching my husband how to cook. 🙂

  • Elke

    When I was about 12, my parents decided they were tired of cooking every night so they told my brothers and me that we were each responsible for one dinner per week. The youngest was only 6 at the time but we each got to choose a meal and cook it. Granted most of the 6 year old’s meals were pasta or hot dog related at first but with help we have all become decent home cooks. This meant each parent only had two meals left per week, since we didn’t eat out often. By 14 I was organizing and cooking “dinner parties” for friends.

    My 3 year old has already assisted with many meals and vegetable planting in the garden and has a great interest in trying new foods. She’s not intimidated! Unfortunately most of her peers will gladly eat pizza at each meal if given the chance. I’m hoping in a few more years they will also expand their options.

  • Amanda Fisher

    When my kid was about 8 and whingeing about the food I made… I created a Rule: no one who did not cook at least 1 meal a night for the family was entitled to whinge about the food provided.

    That worked pretty well- either she cooked, or she had to shut up and eat what others made for her.


  • Claire

    Your recipes always make sense and better yet taste amazing! Thanks for being such a great teacher!

  • Liz @ Butter and Onions

    If there’s one thing I regret, it’s that I didn’t spend more time in the kitchen with my mom. I mean, I got to do some stuff, like grate cheese and shuck corn, but no real cooking. It was probably both our faults, but it’s made for a challenging adulthood. I can still feel incredibly lost without a recipe, but I’m slowly getting to the point where once I’ve made something a few times I feel more confident adding my own touches.

  • Beth

    Eternal kudos to you for teaching your son how to actually COOK (not just follow a recipe.) I own & operate a produce farm, selling most of my goods through farmers markets. It always blows me away how many adults literally don’t know how to boil a pot of beans. How many grown people need personal instruction in slicing a cucumber. (I’m not kidding). I’ve been cooking through necessity since I could reach the stove. I tried to teach my younger brothers to do the same. One took to it like a fish to water, and to this day adores creating in the kitchen. (The other brother prefers to eat in chain restaurants 99% of the time…sigh.)

  • Jeddrick

    See, I learnt to cook curry differently. I was first taught to season the chicken with curry powder (by the way we dont use chicken breast for curries. Its chopped up chicken wings or checken parts), then heat the oil, add the chicken to get a little color, let the curry brown in the post then add the water, and a little cube of maggi seasoning. then I would add my onions, peppers and carrots. Everyone, has their own unique method of cooking curries.
    Now I was in Trinidad ( Im from Turks and Caicos) and I had some curry and let me tell you, I almost ate my fingers off because you guys can handle a good curry!!

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    I took “cooking” as one of my electives in both 7th and 8th grade. I even still have my old cookbooks. I was just thinking back, and couldn’t remember making anything in either of those classes that would qualify as a healthy part of a meal. So I looked through my cookbooks, and this is what I learned to make:

    Breakfast items: Cheese Omelette, Breakfast Quesadilla (quesadilla with a scrambled egg on top)
    Appetizer: Corn Fritters
    Lunch/Dinner items: Pizza
    Desserts: Cinnamon Rolls, Brownies, Pumpkin Muffins (let’s face it, Pumpkin Cake Muffins), Orange Whip (basically an Orange Julius), Cinnamon Crisps (fried wonons with cinnamon & sugar), Microwave Peanut Brittle, Crepes with Apple Filling (basically a dessert), Quick Cake, Granola Bars (with marshmallows and chocolate chips), Fortune Cookies

    Not a vegetable or main dish with or without meat to be had in either class, but there was no shortage of sugar….
    You’ve already gotten some flack for not including a veg, which is easy to fix with curry, but I love where you are headed. It would be great to get kids learning how to cook real food.

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