Comments
  • Warner October 6, 2011 at 8:04 am

    I use the recipe from Bouchon and yes it is home made stock. I will give this a try in the near future though, but I like the beef.

    My pot roast, which originally was derived from the back of a Lipton’s soup package, now uses that onion soup instead.

  • Jessica / Green Skies and Sugar Trips October 6, 2011 at 8:24 am

    After reading this, now I must go home and open up my “skills” notes and see if Pardus had us use stock. When we made FO soup for the first time, it WAS indeed the best I had ever had. Now I am curious…..did or didn’t it use stock….? Hmmmmm

    Regardless, this recipe will be on my table next week!

  • ruhlman October 6, 2011 at 8:26 am

    I’m all but certain WE used stock when we made soup. i drew the onion soup for my practical and was chided for over caramelizing the onion. wouldnt have been problem if i’d used water.

  • Drew @ Willpower Is For Fat People October 6, 2011 at 8:29 am

    I think this is about to become the base for onion dip.

  • redpeace October 6, 2011 at 8:45 am

    I made this with brown beef stock and it was extraordinarily rich. Best I’ve had, to be sure. Point taken about economy though. Can you recommend a book or site with info about these sorts of traditional ‘menu’ items — a guide to cookery with this kind of info in it?

  • Roberta October 6, 2011 at 9:06 am

    I love the admonishment to not use stock. As a vegetarian, it’s so frustrating to see delicious veggie soups that I can’t eat because a meat stock has been used.

  • Adam Tracey October 6, 2011 at 9:13 am

    This is interesting as I made soupe a l’oignon two nights ago and was thinking along the same lines. It fascinates me that a peasant dish has taken on such luxury connotations in modern times.

    But I’m not really sure I agree with the contention that a beef stock made with roasted marrow bones and old mirepoix vegetables really detracts from the economy of this dish. Real AOC gruyere is a luxury at $40+/kg, certainly not beef stock. I think they’re both worth springing for if you want to do it right.

  • Aaron October 6, 2011 at 9:13 am

    Just curious what would happen if you made this with out the sherry. Is there something nonalcoholic I could possibly replace it with? We don’t drink at my house and I would hate to have to waste the money on sherry if I could make it without.

    • ruhlman October 6, 2011 at 9:22 am

      red wine vinegar

      • Shannon October 6, 2011 at 1:48 pm

        Why not sherry vinegar?

      • Emilie November 15, 2011 at 2:44 pm

        Thank you for recipe!! I am on a very strict no dairy/no wheat diet. This hit the spot. I loved it, even if I couldn’t have the crouton and cheese. I used olive oil instead of butter.

      • james December 28, 2011 at 7:41 pm

        Hello, this is my first post. i tried making the soup despite much protest from my father who thought it was absurd not to use beef stock, but i presented your argument for the economy of the dish. i cooked the onions on low for almost for hours, added the water and it was insanely sweet (i didn’t use sweet onions, just yellow onions). i didn’t have any sherry, so i just used a dash of red wine vinegar but i don’t think it tasted right. certainly not like what i had at bouchon. i want to try again this weekend. any suggestions?? thanks alot! cheers and happy new year.

        • ruhlman December 29, 2011 at 11:15 am

          you either didn’t have enough onions or didn’t cook them enough, didn’t use enough salt, or salt early enough, and you can season higher with acidity. hard to know without being there and tasting with you.

          • james January 1, 2012 at 9:49 pm

            Thanks! tried again today and much better. cooked the onions longer (it took like six hours). been anting to make this for a long time. a lot of work but worth it. Thanks again.

  • Debbie October 6, 2011 at 9:22 am

    Those pictures – food porn at its best.

  • Zalbar October 6, 2011 at 9:50 am

    Simplicity, economy and frugality at it’s best. I will continue to use beef stock for mine though.

  • tedg October 6, 2011 at 9:54 am

    I use 50 – 50 beef and chicken stock. Makes for a nice, velvety taste. I also add a few tablespoons of sugar to enhance the caramelization, as well as some grated parmesian mixed with the gruyere.

  • Spencer K October 6, 2011 at 9:54 am

    Mr. Ruhlman, sir, please thank your wife for those *amazing* photos. I seriously want to hang the first shot on my wall. :-)

  • Aaron October 6, 2011 at 10:34 am

    An alternative version of the soup is to make a parmesan (or grana, or similar) broth and skip the cheese on the bread. Veggie, less fattening, and very rich.

  • Terrie October 6, 2011 at 10:43 am

    Oh my, this looks soooo good. I may have to change my menu plan for the weekend and try this! I usually use stock, so I’m excited to try your method!

  • nossi @ The Kosher Gastronome October 6, 2011 at 11:37 am

    Growing up I despised onion soup, it was always oily, and slippery…and then when I grew up a little, I decided to try my hand at it, and made my own, and applied the “keep it simple, stupid” rule, and caramelized onions for hours with butter and olive, like 5 hours over a low flame, and used water instead of stock, and it was the best onion soup I’ve ever had…didn’t need cheese to make it palatable (although of course it didn’t hurt ;)

  • Not for peasants anymore October 6, 2011 at 12:09 pm

    Back when peasants had cave aged gruyere.

  • DiggingDogFarm October 6, 2011 at 12:46 pm

    For what it’s worth, the oldest published, and truly frugal, recipe that I’ve been able to find is in “The French Cook” by Francois Pierre La Varenne published in 1651. There’s no cheese in the recipe.
    “Potage of onion.
    Cut your onions into very thin slices, fry them with butter, and after they are fried put them into a pot with water or with pease broth. After they are well sod, put in it a crust of bread and let it boile a very little; you may put some capers in it. Dry your bread then stove it; take up, and serve with one drop of vinegar.”

    I received “Ruhlman’s Twenty” this past Monday.
    I must say, I’m very impressed…it’s a book of exceptional quality.

    ~Martin : )

  • JW October 6, 2011 at 1:47 pm

    Funny. Made this yesterday from your new and excellent book! Terrific job. Using another of your techniques, after the water cooked out, I slow roasted overnight in a 200 degree oven. Worked fabulously. Can’t wait to cook grits this way.

  • Natalie Luffer Sztern October 6, 2011 at 4:03 pm

    This visual is making me crave the winter if just for the onion soup at au Petit Poucet on route home from a day of skiing…mmmm

  • Robin October 6, 2011 at 4:47 pm

    So glad I read this first thing in the AM – walked the dog, sliced the onions…. it’s quarter to three, and the onions are just starting to color. I’ve always made this with stock, so it’ll be a change (husband is hemming and hawing over the lack of stock. I am standing firm) Thanks for recipe!

  • darren October 6, 2011 at 4:50 pm

    Hilarious moment for me. I decided to do onion soup today and Mr. R’s roast cauliflower. I hop on his page to see the specifics of his cauliflower recipe and he’s got a post on onion soup. Karma, kismet, fate, ka (for you Dark Tower fans).

  • Jonathan October 6, 2011 at 6:50 pm

    Way to go! Great simple recipe. Very flexible too. In a pinch I have used vermouth, port or brandy instead of sherry. I also like to do this as a stuffing side dish with roast meats. I fill the casserole with chunks of bread, cover with soup and let soak in. Cook in oven then top with cheese and place under broiler. Always a hit a costs next to nothing to make. Clients love it.

  • Kay Ecker October 6, 2011 at 8:01 pm

    I too usually use homemade beef stock to make the onion soup, but I’m really loving your recipe! The first time I went to Paris, about 15 years ago, I had the most delicious onion soup. It was a full bodied onion flavor without any beef or chicken, I always wondered how they made the soup, maybe this is the way, can’t wait to try it out!

  • KBCraig October 6, 2011 at 8:06 pm

    Color me amazed. I had always assumed it had to have beef stock, but this was a better match for what I enjoyed in Europe, than any of my previous attempts.

    Bravo!

    I only need a butane torch now, to avoid balancing between browned and burned when using the broiler.

  • Euro Style October 6, 2011 at 11:07 pm

    [...] Ruhlman.com: From his new book, “Ruhlman’s Twenty,” onion soup without time-consuming stock, a peasant dish that’s all about the onions. — Nick Fox [...]

  • - Euro Style October 7, 2011 at 1:50 am

    [...] Ruhlman.com: From his new book, “Ruhlman’s Twenty,” onion soup without time-consuming stock, a peasant dish that’s all about the onions. — Nick Fox [...]

  • Victoria October 7, 2011 at 4:50 am

    A long time ago, for one year of my life, I lived in Saint Louis. While there I worked in an office located on a top floor of the Famous Barr Building. The store had a little restaurant section that served nothing but onion soup for lunch. Very often I think of how great it was to ride the escalator to that area and eat the best lunch I could imagine.

    I am making your soup on Sunday.

  • Dave P October 7, 2011 at 11:31 am

    Le Petit Triangle in Ohio City doesn’t use stock either and they have the best French onion soup I’ve ever had. I will have to try this recipe out in the near future.

  • karen downie makley October 7, 2011 at 12:52 pm

    absolutely the most correct onion soup recipe ever. the key is just slowly melding those onions down (and, of course, that splash of sherry!)

  • Tucker Keene October 7, 2011 at 9:53 pm

    I’m gonna veganize this this weekend with some Daiya cheese, which is unfortunately barely comparable to Gruyere. But it is tasty, so hopefully this comes out pretty well!

  • What We’re Reading | Hold Your Future October 8, 2011 at 6:10 am

    [...] Ruhlman.com: From his new book, “Ruhlman’s twenty,” onion soup without time-consuming stock, a peasant dish that’s all about the onions. — Nick Fox [...]

  • Leslie October 8, 2011 at 2:01 pm

    Got “Twenty” and this was the first recipe I made. Loved it!!!! Family did not miss the beef broth. The only change I made was to add a touch of balsamic vinegar instead of red wine vinegar to round it out. Definitely a make again. Cannot wait to try more recipes.

  • Sherry October 9, 2011 at 2:58 pm

    I think it’s an interesting take on Onion soup, but I find your basic premise flawed; stock isn’t a luxury ingredient, in fact it’s a frugal, thrifty, and highly efficient way to use up scraps of meat, bones and vegetables. (Onion skins, too.) Making and using stock was, and remains a common practice in French kitchens, “peasant” and otherwise.

    Pierre Franey and Jaques Pepin (both born in France, both classically trained in France) have recipes for Onion Soup in their respective autobiographies….both recipes call for stock. In “Mastering The Art of French Cooking”, Julia Child’s recipe calls for stock.

    I wonder if the lack of stock in onion soup in Lyon is a regional quirk? No doubt it’s a good soup, but if I have good, essentially free homemade stock handy, (and I always do), I’ll use it in onion soup for the extra depth of flavor.

  • Tucker Keene October 9, 2011 at 7:04 pm

    Just made the soup totally vegan…incredible! Used Daiya cheese. I wanted to stop before the onion water disappeared, that by itself would have made a great soup! The vegan cheese is decent, but I think I’ll have to break veganism for at least one night of these with gruyere. Those pictures look too good!

  • ruhlman October 10, 2011 at 8:05 am

    agree that stock should not be considered a luxury ingredient–perhaps a luxury of time?

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  • Mitchell Webster October 12, 2011 at 12:42 pm

    Michael this looks and sounds wonderful, I have to make it, I just love onions, and am glad NOT to see Vadalia, I don’t like sweet onions, if the onion does not make you cry then it is NOT a good onion! LOL

  • ayala land Laguna October 12, 2011 at 10:08 pm

    This looks really delicious and creamy! I love onion soup and cheese too.

    Alvin

  • S. Woody October 14, 2011 at 6:45 am

    I’ve always had great success with Julia Child’s recipe (stock based). This sounds like a solid alternative. Although, I’ve lately been altering Julia’s call for white wine by adding maybe a cup of good craft beer (Dogfish Head’s Indian Brown Ale is my cooking beer of choice), which adds an interesting undertone of bitterness from the hops.

  • Michelle October 16, 2011 at 2:49 pm

    I tried this out last week. Day One, I don’t think the soup was as good as the version with stock. Day Two though, the soup had melded and became really, really, good. So, I would make it again, but this time wait a day to eat it.

  • Cali October 17, 2011 at 3:45 pm

    I really want to combine this with an oxtail broth for some reason. But then, I’ve been seriously craving beefy-oniony slow braises lately.

    • Dawn Singh October 20, 2011 at 1:46 pm

      Wow! This soup is a definite 10! The depth of flavor is perfect and it could not be easier to do. Thanks, Ruhlman.

  • When Life Hands You Onions… October 28, 2011 at 8:16 pm

    [...] until my wife told me they were growing “things.” But over at Michael Ruhlman’s blog, the eponymous food writer reminds us of the perfect use for that netted bag: French onion [...]

  • Patrick Littel November 1, 2011 at 1:40 pm

    Soups, stews and casseroles are my favorite dishes to create. The ingredients are easily changed and modified to create subtle changes in textures and flavors.
    In high school my mother helped me make onion soup for my French class. It was an absolute hit. NO stock. Only fresh ingredients and water.
    I use a bouquet of herbs to add flavor and fragrance to my stocks, and was mentioned earlier, this is great for my veagen friends.

  • CopyKat Recipes November 1, 2011 at 11:03 pm

    I love this soup. It is so wonderfully primal. I will have to try adding the vinegar. I really like Alton Brown’s use of apple cider in his, but you know I am always willing to try something new in my French Onion Soup.

  • [...] It requires commitment, extraordinary effort, time, and will make you cry.” -Ronni LundyI tried this french onion soup recipe from Michael Ruhlman’s blog and it was amazing. You might remember Ruhlman from the Las Vegas [...]

  • The Martha Stewart Show | Michael Ruhlman November 12, 2011 at 1:25 am

    [...] before I knew it, there I was, talking salt with Martha Stewart, curing salmon, making onion soup. She said, “I love this book,” when she introduced my book. But she didn’t just [...]

  • [...] Ruhlman wrote about it here and he doesn’t use stock, just water. I was keen to try that, [...]

  • [...] Ruhlman wrote about it here and he doesn’t use stock, just water. I was keen to try that, [...]

  • Shayt November 23, 2011 at 10:33 am

    This recipe looks great, and cannot wait to try it.

    I am not sure where I picked this one up, but I usually finish my onion soup with a shot of bourbon. It seems to add something in the background that amps up the flavor.

  • Stasia November 29, 2011 at 3:37 pm

    I made this a couple of weeks ago. The onions were absolutely fantastic, but I was really disappointed in the finished soup. I think the water washed away a lot of the depth of flavor and adding a splash of sherry didn’t improve the soup. I am going to make it again, but I think I am a person that enjoys the stock.

  • Laurie November 29, 2011 at 11:39 pm

    Thank you for sharing this research and recipe! I’m quite a bit different from your usual audience, being a previous teacher and now homeschooler. Every nine weeks we choose to “become” someone from our history lessons. I design and sew costumes for the part, we study recitations and I research historic recipes to cook for our presentation. I’m definitely including this french soup recipe. Just have to decide which timeframe in France it would work best for.
    Laurie

  • Rob December 1, 2011 at 6:53 pm

    My bread wasn’t that great but the soup itself was beyond great!

  • [...] drinks that use sherry’s distinctive dry nuttiness to great effect. Next time you’re making onion soup, be sure to buy a good sherry – you shouldn’t be using “cooking sherry” anyway – and tip [...]

  • *susan* December 7, 2011 at 10:01 am

    Made this version of French Onion Soup on Monday for a birthday celebration. I used some cognac since I had no sherry on hand, and also added some apple cider vinegar since the onions were so very sweet. Since the meal also had a cheese course, I used less cheese to top the soup than your pictures indicate. And to be honest, too much Gruyere competes with the soup.

    We both really enjoyed the lightness of this soup. It was all about the onions! I only wish that I had added some fresh thyme to the onions during the last bit of cooking. I love fresh thyme with onions, and missed that other flavor component.

    This is a great first course soup, but for the times that I serve onion soup as a main course, I think I will continue to use the Pepin and/or Child recipes.

  • Jeb December 28, 2011 at 7:43 pm

    I made this tonite. With no sherry on hand I just added water and got……onion water, not onion soup. So in a pinch I added some beef broth which gave good flavor. I may have had the Ratio wrong too. Either way I did cut the onions short enough to fit on a spoon….so my wife wasn’t dripping everywhere. The only lesson I can take from this is that Pardus was right on both fronts?

    • ruhlman December 29, 2011 at 11:17 am

      you and a few people feel this way but most love this soup. It sounds like you didn’t cook the onions down far enough. but glad you cut the onions right. i believe it was rudy smith, not pardus who noted this.

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