Monthly Archives: April 2011

Veal Stock Contest Winners

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 29, 2011

veal stock bloody mary

New cocktail using veal stock/veal salt: The Bloody Kantor/Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

First, I love love love all these suggestions from the Veal Stock Contest post.  There were great drinks, including jello shots. I love the Bloody Mary with diced demi cubes (see below).  The above is the cocktail is a meal; veal stock gives it body and umami and nutrition: 1 ounce tomato juice 1 ounce veal stock, 2 ounces of gin (or OYO vodka), 1/2 teaspoon horseradish, shot of Worchestershire Sauce, lemon juice garnished with scallion, and garnished with the overall winner: Veal Salt! Veal Salt is my personal pick of favorite veal stock innovations, offered by Josh Kantor, a 21-year-old senior economics at Occidental College in Los Angeles and part-time garde manger at ...

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Serving Foie Gras At Home

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 27, 2011

foie torchon

Foie torchon served with apple, balsamic, toast, sea salt. Photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Foie gras has a reputation for being fancy.  Many don't understand what it is.  When I served my dad a seared slice of foie gras, the liver of a fattened duck, he looked at it surprised. "I thought foie gras was pâté," he said. Often foie gras is made into a pâté, but not always. Foie gras can be sliced and seared in a very hot pan, no oil, crisp on the outside, molten within. It can be roasted whole. Or it can be made into a torchon as Bob del Grosso described on Monday, with a product he and Chef Pardus developed for Hudson Valley foie gras, and served cold. Either ...

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Posted in Appetizers, Charcutepalooza, Charcuterie, Donna Turner Ruhlman Photography | Tagged , , , , , | Comments closed

The Birth of a Torchon

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 25, 2011

foie gras torchon

Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

One of my favorite things on earth to eat is a well made foie gras torchon. It's a special preparation of foie gras, fat duck liver, that I first experienced at The French Laundry (the recipe is in The French Laundry Cookbook if you have it).  It's a three day procedure and brings out the very best in the foie gras when done right.  The duck liver is deveined, typically soaked in milk and salt to remove residual blood, then seasoned and, traditionally, rolled up in a kitchen towel (a torchon, in French), poached, rerolled to compact it and chilled. It's then eaten cold, a big fat slice of it, with some form of bread and a sweet-sour accompaniment.  The biggest producer of foie gras in ...

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Russia’s Modernist Revolution

By emilia | Published: April 25, 2011

Ranked #44 in the world, Varvary is Russia's first restaurant to make it into the top 50.  Chef Anatoly Komm uses modernist techniques on Russian cuisine, via Independent UK.

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Know What You Eat

By emilia | Published: April 25, 2011

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Cooking Club for Kids

By emilia | Published: April 25, 2011

First-fifth graders at one school in NYC have their own cooking club; Foodies at 41. Learning to cook at top restaurants and chefs in NYC, via WSJ.

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The Importance of Sharp Knives

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 22, 2011

knife sharpening

Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

OpenSky's knife sharpener offer to people who follow me there forced me to think about sharp knives (I had to write the copy). Normally, I only think about sharp knives when they aren't. Here's the fact: the biggest problem in home kitchens is dull knives. There is no greater hindrance to the person in the house who does the cooking than dull knives. Almost without fail, every friend's kitchen I go to, there is not a sharp knife to be found. The only kitchens I've been in where there are sharp knives, are the big fancy ones where no one cooks. And my mom's. Because she only uses those crappy ceramic knives, so her nice Wusthofs, used on my once- or twice-a-year visits remain pristine. (OpenSky has ...

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Veal Stock Contest!

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: April 19, 2011

Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman (click to see more pix on her site)

Regular readers know I’m a veal stock evangelist. Veal stock is one of those magical ingredients that can transform a mediocre cook into an ohmyfuckinggodthisfoodisamazing cook. Really, it’s that powerful. My first piece for Gourmet magazine was about veal stock. My veal stock recipe is in the Gourmet cookbook. In Elements of Cooking, a 242-page book about food and cooking, there is but a single recipe: veal stock. I once asked Jacques Pepin about veal stock and he said he didn’t much make it. Ingredients weren’t at his store in Connecticut.  I found this amazing, until I realized something important!  It was Jacques Pepin!  He doesn’t NEED veal stock.  He could probably make Miracle Whip taste good. But for the rest of us?  ...

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Posted in aromatics, Challenege, Donna Turner Ruhlman Photography, Giveaway, Ratios, ruhlman products, stock | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | Comments closed

Willingness to be Misunderstood

By emilia | Published: April 18, 2011

Schools are not preparing students to be creative and critically minded. Learn why tinkering and failing are important, via MindShift

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Purity of Olive Oil

By emilia | Published: April 18, 2011

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