Monthly Archives: February 2011

Garlic Germ

I'd long been taught that the germ of garlic released enzymes that changed the flavor of garlic. In Skills class at the CIA in 1996, my chef instructor said in the finest starred restaurants you'd find that the cooks removed the germ before mincing, but that for our purposes it was unnecessary. That same chef, 5 years later, now asked his class to always remove the germ because it did affect the flavor.  Harold McGee discusses garlic and its science in his book. I too noticed differences, not that the garlic was bitter, as some claim, only that if the garlic sat for a while before using it developed to me an off flavor. This blogger did a test finding that the flavor was different but not worse, in ...

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Video: Dive!

A documentary on food waste, dumpster diving and the people who do it, via Dive! the Film.

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Eat & Dust

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Perfect Citrus: Dekopon

AKA Sumo, a Japanese citrus fruit now being grown in California.  A cross between an orange and a mandarin, via LA Time.

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The Forgiveness of Cured Meat: Bacon

bacon or pancetta drying

This week's bacon, waiting to be smoked, photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I've been slammed this week, and now have to travel, if I can get out in this blizzard. But last week I put a whole pork belly on the cure. I'd given it a sweet cure, brown sugar, maple syrup and black pepper, because I wanted to smoke it rather than make pancetta. It was done yesterday but I had no time to smoke it.  Our lives get busy, we don't have time to finish something, sometimes we're too tired or the kids have a snow day. What's so great about charcuterie, as with this bacon, is its preserved.  There's no hurry. I'll smoke it next week, and until then, it's going to sit out, ...

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