Monthly Archives: February 2011

Garlic Germ

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 28, 2011

I'd long been taught that the germ of garlic released enzymes that changed the flavor of garlic. In Skills class at the CIA in 1996, my chef instructor said in the finest starred restaurants you'd find that the cooks removed the germ before mincing, but that for our purposes it was unnecessary. That same chef, 5 years later, now asked his class to always remove the germ because it did affect the flavor.  Harold McGee discusses garlic and its science in his book. I too noticed differences, not that the garlic was bitter, as some claim, only that if the garlic sat for a while before using it developed to me an off flavor. This blogger did a test finding that the flavor was different but not worse, in ...

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Video: Dive!

By emilia | Published: February 28, 2011

A documentary on food waste, dumpster diving and the people who do it, via Dive! the Film.

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Eat & Dust

By emilia | Published: February 28, 2011

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Perfect Citrus: Dekopon

By emilia | Published: February 28, 2011

AKA Sumo, a Japanese citrus fruit now being grown in California.  A cross between an orange and a mandarin, via LA Time.

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The Forgiveness of Cured Meat: Bacon

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 25, 2011

bacon or pancetta drying

This week's bacon, waiting to be smoked, photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

I've been slammed this week, and now have to travel, if I can get out in this blizzard. But last week I put a whole pork belly on the cure. I'd given it a sweet cure, brown sugar, maple syrup and black pepper, because I wanted to smoke it rather than make pancetta. It was done yesterday but I had no time to smoke it.  Our lives get busy, we don't have time to finish something, sometimes we're too tired or the kids have a snow day. What's so great about charcuterie, as with this bacon, is its preserved.  There's no hurry. I'll smoke it next week, and until then, it's going to sit out, ...

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The Badass Perforated (aka Egg) Spoon
Recipe: Poached Egg with Sauteed Spinach

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 23, 2011

A great way to poach an egg / Photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

A couple years ago, nosing around in McGee's On Food and Cooking, I came across his suggestion that one could make neater poached eggs by getting rid of the liquidy, flyaway whites before poaching.  And it works! (There's really no point in adding acid to the water.) Regrettably, I left my good perforated spoon at a Macy's demo and was left a generic slotted spoon with a shallow bowl and the egg always wanted to jump out. So when my friend Mac suggested we make some kitchen tools, a great perforated spoon was high on the list.  And here it is, The Badass Perforated (aka Egg) Spoon, now available at OpenSky, a new, still evolving e-commerce site ...

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Soaring Spice Market

By emilia | Published: February 21, 2011

Due to many natural disasters, prices of spices are increasing.  Read about 8 spices and why their yields are low, via Independent UK.

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Video: Next’s Duck Press

By emilia | Published: February 21, 2011

Check out a quick video on the classic duck press.  This dish looks like it will be presented at Next, via Next Restaurant.

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2011 JBF Awards

By emilia | Published: February 21, 2011

Check out the list of chefs and restaurant award semifinalists for the James Beard Foundation, via JBF.

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No-Knead Bread: A Convert’s Story

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: February 18, 2011

bread without a mixet

No-Knead Bread, with serrated knife, banneton, salted butter

I recently posted on twitter that I don't believe in no-knead bread, the phenomenon started by Jim Lahey—chef of the excellent pizza restaurant Co., and owner of Sullivan St. Bakery in Manhattan, and author of My Bread—when Mark Bittman wrote about Lahey's no-knead technique in The New York Times. (Here's Lahey's no-knead bread recipe.) After tweeting, I almost immediately received an email from Nick Fox, a New York Times Dining editor, perplexed. The next day Bittman DM'd me on Twitter asking why? Jeff Hertzberg, an author of the popular Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day, RT'd my comment, adding "Say it ain't so!" Not long after that the eminent author and Vogue columnist, Jeffrey Steingarten, in ...

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