Monthly Archives: January 2011

Homemade Bagels Are a Breeze!

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: January 31, 2011

Bagel recipe

Homemade Bagels/Photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Here is a bagel recipe worthy of the best New York or Jersey deli from a baker in Boone, North Carolina. Bruce Ezzell commented on this blog ages ago and elicited a discussion about bagels, which led to his inspiring journey from being laid off to opening his own bakery. professional baker. I'll let Bruce, @thebreadlist on Twitter, tell the story.—M.R. by Bruce Ezzell I've been baking for 20 years now. Five years professionally from 1989-1994, then what I called 'sanity baking' after that. Newly married, kids on the way, I had to find work that gave me a steady paycheck so I left baking for new careers. The 'economic downturn' changed things for me. I lost my job as the office manager of a high-end construction company in January 2009.  Boone, NC, ...

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Video: Inuit Mussel Harvest

By emilia | Published: January 31, 2011

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Charcuterie & Polcyn

By emilia | Published: January 31, 2011

Polcyn discusses charcuterie and the food scene in Detroit.  He also talks about the economics of the pig, via Crain's Detroit.

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Consomme Forgotton

By emilia | Published: January 31, 2011

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Bocuse d’Or—Post Game

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: January 28, 2011

Parading Team USA's "Manhattan" meat platter before judges/Photo by Joshua David Stein

Just returned to snowy Clevelandtown, a twenty-two hour haul from Lyon via Heathrow and O’Hare, thinking all the while on the Bocuse d’Or competition and feeling bad for Team USA, and wondering what to make of it all. “This was a tough one to swallow,” Chef Kaysen wrote in an email, hours after the competition.  “I think I need some months to really draw all the inspiration that was seen there.  I realized in the beginning of the day after seeing both Denmark and Sweden that we did not play the game—we went there and did our food, we did what we thought was right because we loved it so much, but clearly there is a defined game in the way that food that ...

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Bocuse d’Or—Team USA’s Quest For Gold

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: January 25, 2011

bocuse d'or 2011 team usa

A chat with James Kent, left, and Tom Allan during final-day prep (Photo by Joshua David Stein for eater.com)

We met Team USA this morning in the Paul Bocuse commissary a half mile down the road from his restaurant. The team was finishing their mise, checking it, and checking it again. A box of Chef’s Garden micro tarragon and teensy radishes had arrived, the produce in pristine condition. Commis Tom Allan prepped langoustine (they will be part of the fish platter and can be taken from their shell now but not prepped till tomorrow).  These, like the greens and another part of the monkfish were shipped from the states because Kent and the others were unhappy with the quality.  They were re-cooking the monk to make ...

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Pancake!

By emilia | Published: January 24, 2011

Pancakes are an essential breakfast treat.  Learn to make the 1966 David Eyre's pancake. So poofy, so good, via food52.com.

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Optimal Dilution

By emilia | Published: January 24, 2011

Yes, it is true gourmet ice is now here.  Névé Luxury Ice Company sells heavily filtered and hand cut cubes for bars, via The Atlantic.

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Return of Buffalo

By emilia | Published: January 24, 2011

Buffalo meat is growing in popularity and the number of farmers are increasing.  How buffalo and bison are different than cattle, via NYT.

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Bocuse d’Or 2011

By Michael Ruhlman | Published: January 24, 2011

Bocuse d'Or Team USA

James Kent, left, and Tom Allan will represent the US in Lyon this week.

What do culinary competitions mean in America? Reality shows on Bravo and the Food Network pitting chefs against one another have made compelling TV and earned huge audiences here, but actual not-made-for-TV competitions remain off the radar. American chefs who competed in them were relative unknowns, and the most well-known chefs, those with high profile restaurants, tended to dismiss them for their old fashioned, aspic-coated food platters and the hotel and country club chefs who created them. But in 2008, one of the most revered chefs in the world, Paul Bocuse, famed both for his food and his restaurant as well as his unusual media savvy, aimed to change that by attempting to elevate the competition he ...

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