Monthly Archives: September 2010

Kitchen Tip: Painter’s Tape and Sharpie

Common in professional kitchens, painter's tape and a good marker should be a part of a home kitchen as well.  It works best on deli cups but it can be used on most surfaces.  Better, it can be removed from them as well, without leaving stickiness behind. (Photo by donna, thanks sweetheart!) I store a lot of stock in a basement freezer and every container gets marked and dated.  Don't even think you'll remember what that stuff is under all that frost.  Don't think you're going to remember how many yolks were left over from making angel food cake. I first saw blue painter's tape at The French Laundry years ago.  Thomas Keller's restaurants now use green painter's tape because, I believe, it's even cleaner when removed than the blue stuff (more expensive too).  I like blue just fine, and ...

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Consistent Studio Lighting Sometimes A Must

©photos by Donna Turner Ruhlman

After I temporarily moved out of my studio today (our kitchen), Michael realized we needed to photograph the rest of the duck confit process—and he needed it done NOW. Instead of dragging my lights back up to the kitchen I was able to recreate the same lighting situation as the first shot because studio lighting is consistent. You can photograph almost anything with available light and a tripod, but today it is dark with a foggy cloudy sky and,  like I said it needed to be done NOW!  Your lighting doesn't have to be strobes, but the stronger the light, the faster shutter speed you can use (this shot hand-held @125 sec.) and a greater depth of field (f11). This is one of those photographs you don't want a shaky spoon and ...

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How To Make Duck Confit
Fall Is Here, Time to Preserve Duck!

Duck Confit with Pepper/Coriander Cure, photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Football has started, the sky is slate, the air is cold and winter will be here soon. One of the very few excellent things about winter in Cleveland—besides surfing on Lake Erie (see No Rez Cleveland) and Sunday morning fires on the hearth—is the opportunity to eat duck confit all winter long.  Best part about duck confit is, make it once, and you've got it on hand till April—it's always there for you.  Whether for an impromptu lunch or a fancy dinner (I'm planning a cassoulet for an old friend next Friday), or a last-minute appetizer for last-minute guests. On Saturday I picked up 12 gorgeous duck legs from Plum Creek Farm.  Because I was doing a variation on this pickled chillis recipe that ...

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Choosing An Angle For Your Photography Subject

Vegies at Eye Level—©DTR

I'm getting really tired of photographing this CSA stuff. The assignment for the CSA blog is to show every vegetable that we get so I feel limited to a bird's eye view of the lot.  I would prefer to see this photo but it I couldn't get everything in from this angle. When you go to take a photo of something, after you have the shot you feel is right—spend a little extra time photographing your subject from every angle and side. Sometimes a more interesting image emerges. Happy shooting!

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VEGETABLE LOVE! (CSA Week 17)
Fall: Butternut Squash Soup, Poached Lettuce

Ohio CSA Week 17, photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman (click photo to see her alternate shot)

Yesterday was 92 degrees.  This morning was low sixties, with that wonderful slate sky that descends in fall and the chill wakes me up and makes me want to cook.  There’s still corn the farmers market, fat kerneled and juicy, still very sweet, still aching to be baked.  The green beans are getting big and tough and can be roasted (hot oven, chilli flakes, cumin, smashed garlic, 20 minutes).   The chillis are vivid and the jalapeno plant that Donna planted in the spring is loaded down with fat hot ones.  I got a jar of chilli’s pickling, more or less this recipe here out of this awesome book, only I’m going ...

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Medium Raw
Review by a Frienemy

This review can’t begin without the kind of disclosure that reveals even more than I know to reveal.  Kitchen Confidential annoyed me when I read it.  I was grudging.  The guy could write—this fucking hack cook.  Annoying.  He could really write.  Not only was I jealous, but I also saw it as a danger.  This guy was so compelling, so romantic in his portrayal of cooks, I worried for all the young cooks about to move into this world. There couldn’t possibly be a worse role model for young chefs than the author of Kitchen Confidential, and yet the hordes were following this piper gleefully and indiscriminately (would they too like to be selling their old paperbacks at 95th and Broadway in winter for heroin money?).  Also his book was more successful by far than anything I’d ...

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Some Subjects Demand To Be In Black & White

©photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

When Michael asked me if I had a photo of Tony for this post my mind visualized him in B&W. Tony is a colorful man but I see his portrait in B&W. Some subjects just demand to be B&W and some demand to be color. An obvious subject for color would be a rainbow. Another obvious subject for B&W other then Tony? This question can only be answered by the photographer. It's subjective. Here is the original photo this came from:

©photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

Another reason this just doesn't work is that this photo was taken in very low light—and it's hard to get great color in low ...

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So You Wanna Be a Chef
— by Bourdain

©photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman (click photo to visit her blog)

[Note: Shuna, aka eggbeater, has covered this subject well and honestly in many posts, notably the culinary school question.  I address it in the intro to the new paperback of Making of a Chef and on my FAQ page. But when I read Bourdain's take in his most recent book, Medium Raw, I wanted to make sure it reached as many people as possible.  The kind folks at Harper Collins rarely give away more than 500 words of a book they're charging money for; I'm very grateful to them, and to Tony, for letting me reprint it here (I've bold-faced piquant ideas in lieu of call-outs to keep the unmotivated enticed). I'll review the book later in the week.  But this ...

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Sweet Potato Fries: CSA Week 16

photo by iPhone

CSA week 16 is easily the heaviest bundle yet, with the apples, big tomatos, the (surprise!) bok choy, more nice green beans under all the lettuce.  Apples, fall is here.  Sweet potatoes, more fall.  I'm getting pretty goddam tired of those green peppers though.  Wish the dog would eat them.  I ordered eggs this week $2.50 extra, well worth it.  They're a buck more at the farmers market.  And I just ate two of them, another Saturday morning favorite: egg sandwich, yolks intentionally broken, fried gently in butter, salt and pepper, topped with chopped bacon and slipped between two pieces of soft white bread fresh out of the plastic, one piece generously smeared with Hellmann's.  Yes, Hellmann's mayo.  I know I make a stink about making your own mayo and how easy ...

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Photographing On Textured Surfaces

©photo by Donna Turner Ruhlman

We love to see texture in our photographs—so why do so many food photographs have the food sitting on shiny white plates? Because that's what restaurants use? Because that's what we have at home? I've been doing the photographs for Michael's next book and when we started the art director, Vanessa, pretty much told me where to go to buy plates. She did not want to see shiny white or patterned plates and now I understand why. A white or patterned glossy plate is going to draw the viewer's eye away from the food because it is so bright. Non-glazed ceramic in earth tones work well and use the salad plate size so you don't end up with a big collar around your subject. Also using things that are not plates ...

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