Monthly Archives: May 2010

Homemade Ravioli

Ab1_0018 Photo by Donna Ruhlman Summer is flying by too quickly and I've been buried in all the good things--work and family and friends and food.  Ma was here and I showed her the Iron Chef show with Symon v. Bloomfield and she was so enamoured of Symon's idea of putting a yolk inside pasta, I made some for her (above, on a bed of sheep's milk ricotta I got from Paul Minnillo at Baricelli Inn, seasoned with citrus and espelette), served with a simple brown butter sauce.  Sooo. Good . Yolk spills out into the butter.  Then off to NYC to judge an Iron Chef competition, then back home on the 4th for Old Chicago's on the grill at my Dad's and fireworks viewed from the first fairway of a local course, then ...

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Homemade Short Rib Pastrami

Short Rib sandwich blog Photos by Donna [I'm on a blog break from 5/17 through 5/31, so I'm putting up favorite food posts from the archives.] It began with pickles. I'd bought a quart of small cukes to pickle with tarragon but I wasn't thinking as I made the brine.  I wanted some spice in there so I added black peppercorns.  Then, here is the not thinking part, I put in a load of coriander seed, then the tarragon, but as I smelled the brine coming up to heat, it was clear that pepper and coriander would completely overpower the tarragon, and simply don't belong together.  So I removed the tarragon.  Donna arrived just then and said, "Mmm, smells good in here. Like corned beef." Having ruined the brine for the pickles (using the ...

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How To Make Quiche

Quiche 2 Photos by donna [I'm on a blog break from 5/17 through 5/31, so I'm putting up favorite food posts from the archives, this one on quiche published last July] On Wednesday I flew to Washington to make a quiche at the restaurant Proof for a segment on "All Things Considered" with one of the show's new hosts, Guy Raz.  Guy said he read the Slate review of the book, which called my book Ratio "fascinating and pompous," and was intrigued.  So he and his producer, Phil Harrel, requested a dish that combined two ratios.  Quiche immediately came to mind, using both the 3-2-1 pie dough ratio (I've lost track of the number of people who have written to thank me for getting them over their fear of pie dough) and the custard ...

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Homemade Pizza

Pizza  blog #2 [I'm taking a blogging break until 5/31, so am putting up favorite food posts from the archives in the interim] Can we call this national make-pizza-at-home week?  That would make me really happy.  Why?  Because pizza at home is so good, so easy, and so so affordable.  But what I want to focus on here is the EASY part.  This is why I really loved Sam Sifton’s NYTimes mag article on pizza (except for that truly shameless plug of Jay McInerny’s new book—are they pals? Really had to stretch even to make sense).  But: Pizza at home IS so easy it got me wanting to make pizza for breakfast: bacon and eggs pizza?  Why not?! Pizza blog #1 I loved his stressing the fact that ...

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How To Grill a Sausage

Earlier this week, I shot a video on grilling for a new digital magazine being created by Sideways.  I did a spatchcocked chicken, grilled asparagus and also sausage, because, after the infrenal boneless skinless chicken breast, it's the most overcooked meat in America, and yet it's rightly beloved here. In my experience people err because they're afraid of not cooking it enough.  So they either cook it over really high heat, overcooking the outside, busting open the sausage, or they kill it with too much moderate heat. As we move into grilling season, and there's no better way to cook a sausage than over the smoky heat of live coals, I encourage you to grill sausages often.  All carnivores around you will be happier. There are two stages to grilling a sausage to perfection.  Start it over moderate direct heat to give ...

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