Monthly Archives: April 2010

The Saving Graces of Pigs and Charcuterie

Photos by Tray Satterfield, Portland Meat Collective

Maybe I was more cranky in Portland than I realized.  It put me on something of a tear about how everyone's too damned busy to cook if something's going to take longer than 3 minutes, but my last morning at the IACP conference turned me around but good.  This is a post to thank those enormous spirits who presided over the pigs: Adam Sappington, Kate Hill, and Dominique Chapolard (can you guess which one he is?). Dominique runs a farm with his wife and brothers, "seed to sausage," as they put it.  Everything their pigs eat from birth to slaughter is grown on that farm.  The Chapolards sell all their meat at market and make their own fresh and dry-cured sausage. Kate Hill runs a culinary retreat in Gascony nearby.  She ...

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Ruth Reichl’s Remarks on Gourmet’s Demise

Ruth Reichl addressing the IACP conference in Portland Thursday

  Nine hours door to door from Cleveland to my hotel room and I was hungry.  The fine folks in Portland organizing the International Association of Culinary professionals, had filled the room with Portland products, wine beer coffee candy and, lo, some serious local beef jerky.  Dense sweet salty savory concentrated protein, like candy.  I knew I’d arrived in a good place.  Ruth Reichl opened the conference the following morning with remarks on the subject that continues to dog her, Gourmet's end, and her desire to put it in a broader context.  “What happened at Gourmet says a lot about where we are on the food landscape” she said, adding, “I should have seen it coming but I didn’t.”  Why didn’t she see the death of this eminent, arguably best, food magazine in ...

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Food Network’s New Cooking Channel

The Food Network Announced it's new shows yesterday, to begin at the end of next month.  NYTimes says it's looking for a younger audience. Scripps Press Release of New Shows.

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The Elements of Cooking,
Paperback At Last! 5-X Giveaway!

Finally!  The Elements of Cooking, my guide to the language of the kitchen, has been published in the form it was meant to be in—paperback, an edition affordable for students (just $10 from Amazon), light and bendable for stuffing into backpacks or knife kits.  Eric Ripert, chef-owner of the 4-star restaurant, Le Bernardin, calls it "simply the best reference book and educational tool available for anyone interested in the basics of the culinary arts." I've always felt this was a required resource for all young cooks or new cooks, except for its hardcover price tag. Wonderful Scribner and the visionary editor Beth Wareham, have now changed that. Sam Sifton, NYTimes restaurant critic, said this about the book in the The NYTimes Book Review:

A deeply opinionated rundown of the essential knowledge all cooks ...

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The Invaluable Hood

I loved this Times article on one of the most undervalued tools of the kitchen.

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