Monthly Archives: April 2010

The Saving Graces of Pigs and Charcuterie

Photos by Tray Satterfield, Portland Meat Collective

Maybe I was more cranky in Portland than I realized.  It put me on something of a tear about how everyone's too damned busy to cook if something's going to take longer than 3 minutes, but my last morning at the IACP conference turned me around but good.  This is a post to thank those enormous spirits who presided over the pigs: Adam Sappington, Kate Hill, and Dominique Chapolard (can you guess which one he is?). Dominique runs a farm with his wife and brothers, "seed to sausage," as they put it.  Everything their pigs eat from birth to slaughter is grown on that farm.  The Chapolards sell all their meat at market and make their own fresh and dry-cured sausage. Kate Hill runs a culinary retreat in Gascony nearby.  She ...

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Ruth Reichl’s Remarks on Gourmet’s Demise

Ruth Reichl addressing the IACP conference in Portland Thursday

  Nine hours door to door from Cleveland to my hotel room and I was hungry.  The fine folks in Portland organizing the International Association of Culinary professionals, had filled the room with Portland products, wine beer coffee candy and, lo, some serious local beef jerky.  Dense sweet salty savory concentrated protein, like candy.  I knew I’d arrived in a good place.  Ruth Reichl opened the conference the following morning with remarks on the subject that continues to dog her, Gourmet's end, and her desire to put it in a broader context.  “What happened at Gourmet says a lot about where we are on the food landscape” she said, adding, “I should have seen it coming but I didn’t.”  Why didn’t she see the death of this eminent, arguably best, food magazine in ...

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Food Network’s New Cooking Channel

The Food Network Announced it's new shows yesterday, to begin at the end of next month.  NYTimes says it's looking for a younger audience. Scripps Press Release of New Shows.

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The Elements of Cooking,
Paperback At Last! 5-X Giveaway!

Finally!  The Elements of Cooking, my guide to the language of the kitchen, has been published in the form it was meant to be in—paperback, an edition affordable for students (just $10 from Amazon), light and bendable for stuffing into backpacks or knife kits.  Eric Ripert, chef-owner of the 4-star restaurant, Le Bernardin, calls it "simply the best reference book and educational tool available for anyone interested in the basics of the culinary arts." I've always felt this was a required resource for all young cooks or new cooks, except for its hardcover price tag. Wonderful Scribner and the visionary editor Beth Wareham, have now changed that. Sam Sifton, NYTimes restaurant critic, said this about the book in the The NYTimes Book Review:

A deeply opinionated rundown of the essential knowledge all cooks ...

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The Invaluable Hood

I loved this Times article on one of the most undervalued tools of the kitchen.

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Fettuccine Alfredo Recipe

Fettuccine Alfredo, photo by Donna

As I mentioned today over in Huffington Post's new food pages, I once used to purchase the Knorr powdered mix for Alfredo sauce.  This is almost like buying dehydrated water.  Fettuccine Alfredo is the world's easiest cream sauce, and it's also one of the best. In my opinion, the quality of the dish is dependent on the cheese, good Parmigiano-Reggiano.  If you don't have that, make something else.  The traditional Italian Alfredo doesn't use cream but I think the cream is essential for distributing the cheese.  I also feel that dried pasta is too heavy for this—this dish calls for fresh pasta.  Best to make it yourself, but good fresh pasta is available at most grocery stores now.  This dish comes together fast—the hardest part about it waiting ...

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My Essential Kitchen Tools

My Wusthof Knives, virtually the only ones I use, all photos by Donna

I get asked a lot about cooking tools and while I could do anything I really needed with just five tools—my truly minimalist kitchen would have a chef’s knife, cutting board, large sauté pan, flat-edged wood spoon and a large Pyrex bowl—I’ve got lots of tools I like and a box of tools I never use down in the basement.  In a world where all kinds of companies pitch all kinds of products, I’d like to talk about the actual tools I use and love. First things first: Knives.  You don’t need a big block of knives.  You need a big knife and a little knife.  Invest in good quality knives.  I use Wusthof, have been for 20 ...

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Demo On the Beach!
Chimichurri Shrimp in Naples

Post demo, serving citrus cured salmon on the beach in Naples, FL, photos by Donna

Yes, it was a vacation, but I'd offered to help out at benefits for University Hospitals (where I was born!) in Naples and Palm Beach by doing a short demo and getting on my soapbox about cooking for yourself in your house (or, in the case of Palm Beach, hiring somebody to do so; seriously, I honestly don't care WHO is cooking, only that someone is cooking in the house). I normally hate doing demos.  It takes real skill, it's a different form of cooking. But Derin Moore, a bonafide certified master chef (see Soul of a Chef!), executive chef at the Ritz Carlton hooked me up big time, had ...

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Ohio’s Snowville Creamery

Featured in the Washington Post. Look for their milk at Whole Foods and indy grocery stores.

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Server Issues Resolved

Due to the recent OpenSky press (NYTimes bits blog, techcrunch.com, USAToday), this site got a surge of traffic that forced my inhospitable host to shut it down last night. Can't tell you how frustrating that is.  We've gone ahead and moved it to a dedicated server so this should never be an issue again (permalink issues remain but will eventually work themselves out I trust).  Sorry for the inconvenience. And yes, these really are the two most important tools in my kitchen (thanks for the shot, Donna!).  A Kitchen Essentials post was in the works but this damned shut-down threw off my whole schedule. At any rate, hope you're cooking and eating well tonight!

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